Originally posted by mr. mx-3 hey man, i have a 2.5 us motor in my mx-3 and want to know if there are any cams or pistons or any any thing i can do to it motor wise to get more hp. i dont want nos or a turbo, just pure motor and i want about 240 to 250 hp. any info will be greatly appreciated
If you don't mind doing the swap you posted to... get a ZE, get some agressively reground camps, higher pressure fuel pump, BORED TB (not coned), and the rest of the typical bolt ons.
If you do mind going ZE and want to stay 03, get a ZE IM and do the same as I listed for the ZE.
Anyone else have suggestions? This should probably go in a new thread.
YOu should also look into getting some head work done, if you want to be at 240-250hp (at the crank I'm guessing). The ZE will love ya for it. I did a mild port and polish on my heads and (even though I didn't drive it stock) I believe there is a difference. I DO know that there is a big difference between my ZE and old, crappy 03.
Enjoy,
Chris
"I may not have started this thread, but damn it, I'm going to end it!"
MSIIv3 Extra 2.0.1: custom 36-1 reluctor ring; fabulous! Crazy N/A. 95 MX-6 LS-ZE
14.923@92.73 (UNCORRECTED @ 5,800ft)
14.501@94.42 (UNCORRECTED @ 3,000ft)
~13.8 at sea w/ good conditions. (Pulley, Intake)
12.3 w/ a Type R sticker on the bumper and a big ole wing on my FWD 6cyl Automatic.
Originally posted by IH8RICE get a bigger engine??
??
"I may not have started this thread, but damn it, I'm going to end it!"
MSIIv3 Extra 2.0.1: custom 36-1 reluctor ring; fabulous! Crazy N/A. 95 MX-6 LS-ZE
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
ecu question
i want to do the klze swap... the only thing holding me back is the confusion over the computer ECU... if im spending a lot of money on this motor i want it to run to its full potential... i've read my options about ECU.
-reprogramed
-j spec
-fuel managment system?
then i read about vaf/maf... VIRS.. all of which i am not familiar with (im new at this)
i've searched so many times for a straight answer... the adminstrator wouldnt let me search anymore... it brought up an error??
a straight answer of exactly what i need and where i might be able to get it would be greatly appreciated... thanks
The ZE is a straight swap to get it running. The only thing holding you back are the VRIS points compared to your A-Spec ECU. All you have to do is go onto ProbeTalk into the Bulk Buy section and pick up a drop in chip for the ZE VRIS points to be used in an A-Spec ECU. The fuel systems are the same.
This will save you from having to get an MX-3 VAF/MAF and using a ZE Distributor.
That is my suggestion to you. That single chip will save you a lot of trouble in the long run. You just need to find someone who can install it for you (unless you are good at soldering micro-chips)!
Quote:
Originally posted by slieux i want to do the klze swap... the only thing holding me back is the confusion over the computer ECU... if im spending a lot of money on this motor i want it to run to its full potential... i've read my options about ECU.
-reprogramed
-j spec
-fuel managment system?
then i read about vaf/maf... VIRS.. all of which i am not familiar with (im new at this)
i've searched so many times for a straight answer... the adminstrator wouldnt let me search anymore... it brought up an error??
a straight answer of exactly what i need and where i might be able to get it would be greatly appreciated... thanks
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
klze
thanks... that helps a lot... so that will allow my ze to run to its full potential? one last question... any suggestions when i might be able to have the chip installed?
This looks like an old post but if you still want the info...
The chip will help the ZE run closer to the J-spec ZE. The chip is still basically A-spec but with modified VRIS opening and closing points tuned to the ZE IM resonance rather than the 03's. The mikeseli chip will allow use of the A-spec VAF so you don't have to switch to the JE50 MAF. You can also order a higher rev limit and also the option to disable the EGR CEL. With regards to your second question, I assume you mean "where" and not "when", you would have to find someone with some de-soldering/soldering experience on computer boards. I wouldn't try to tackle it yourself if your a newbie at that kind of thing. Maybe some electronics store or some techie guy you know. I'd be kinda worried if you don't have a backup ECU around tho'.
Quote:
Originally posted by slieux thanks... that helps a lot... so that will allow my ze to run to its full potential? one last question... any suggestions when i might be able to have the chip installed?
Just wanted to add a little bit of a heads up for you fellow ZE enthusiasts. I finished my swap about a week ago. It would start, but would instantly die. If I kept on the throttle and held it at 3k rpm or so, it would stay running and quite smoothly too. But if I let off the throttle and held it at about 1k rpm, it would run all choppy and sound like a hunk of ****! I tried everything to try and figure it out and drove myself nutty in the process.
To save yourselves a lot of aggravation when swapping to the ZE, look out for a set screw on the driver's side of the rear head. It's missing on the ZE, but if you look at your 03, it'll be there. Swap it over while it's still easy to get to and you're good to go. If left out it will be a major vacuum leak and your car won't stay running.
Originally posted by Diggler Just wanted to add a little bit of a heads up for you fellow ZE enthusiasts. I finished my swap about a week ago. It would start, but would instantly die. If I kept on the throttle and held it at 3k rpm or so, it would stay running and quite smoothly too. But if I let off the throttle and held it at about 1k rpm, it would run all choppy and sound like a hunk of ****! I tried everything to try and figure it out and drove myself nutty in the process.
To save yourselves a lot of aggravation when swapping to the ZE, look out for a set screw on the driver's side of the rear head. It's missing on the ZE, but if you look at your 03, it'll be there. Swap it over while it's still easy to get to and you're good to go. If left out it will be a major vacuum leak and your car won't stay running.
I have never heard of anyone (including myself) having this problem... perhaps yours fell out in shipping or someone else down the line removed it.
But yeah, if someone had the problems you described, then there you go.
my car has been running like a$$ for the most part since I did the ZE swap. Above 2k rpms it runs great, but even after TPS adjustment, and a bunch of other trial and error things my idle is still off, I've just learned to live with it. I'll check that set screw tonight. My guess would be that it's got something to do with the EGR, or the japanese equivalent of EGR. and that's why some people may have had this problem, and other have not. I've heard of a LOT of ZE's having lumpy idle problems, so you may have found something else for us to inspect on the engines when they get here.
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
Quote:
Originally posted by easyBob You said it Silenc3r. There is one metal tube by the TB side of the IM that I'm not using and there is also an extra coolent temp sensor I believe. It's just sitting there, not being used.
-Chris
The extra coolant temperature sensor is also found on the 1993 KL03 (KLDE). In 1993 the engine had one sensor for the ECM/Gauges and another for the cooling fan relay.
ok, after a year of buying ECUs and failing at getting them to work, here is what I've found out...
1994 OBD I (BIG lettering on case of PCM):
KL55: USDM KL03 w/ ATX
KL31: JDM KLZE out of a 626 w/ MTX
KL36: JDM KLZE out of a MX6 w/ ATX
The ATX will not run properly on the KL31 PCM. The engine will run fine, however, the transmission shift points will be all wrong.
I am currently reading error code 14 (Barometric Pressure Sesnor Failure) on all 3 PCMs and when I find out what that means and how to make it go away, I'll post what the fix is. I find it hard to beleive I could have 3 PCMs with this same problem, so my guess is something external to the PCM is causing this code. Chances are, if I'm seeing it, some one else doing a ZE swap into an ATX will see the same thing.
I am currently reading error code 14 (Barometric Pressure Sesnor Failure) on all 3 PCMs and when I find out what that means and how to make it go away, I'll post what the fix is. I find it hard to beleive I could have 3 PCMs with this same problem, so my guess is something external to the PCM is causing this code. Chances are, if I'm seeing it, some one else doing a ZE swap into an ATX will see the same thing.
Could the error be because the ecu came from a climate control equiped car??? As a lot of japanese market 626's/mx6s had it equiped.
Sold: 93 MX6 4WS
Current Car: R32 Skyline GTS4 Sedan
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