Common 2G mx6 performance mods

**b4tn** · 6-1-03, 15:33

Intake:

Hot shot: http://rr-racing.com/intakes.htm
PRM intake: http://corksport.com
Modified Prelude intake: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread...prelude+intake (Prelude intake on 2.5 **directions** post questions here !!)
Home depot: 3” ABS pipes to make any style you want.

In my opinion the best intake is the home depot intake or the modified prelude intake. Both are cheap to make and yield the same results. The prelude intake will look better than the home depot intake. The part number for the K&N filter that will fit a 3 ½ inch ABS pipe is RU-3130. It will also fit a 3” pipe extra clamping is just required. The Cold Air intake will make your car sound different as well as give an approximate 3-5 hp

Exhaust:

Pacesetter catback: http://nopionline.com
Borla Catback:
http://www.spmotorsports.com/probe_exh_systems.html
Brospeed Catback: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probe_exh_systems.html
HKS Catback: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probe_exh_systems.html
Greddy Catback:

A Muffler is not a performance upgrade! You will gain if you are lucky 1-2 hp by adding just a muffler, the stock muffler is already pretty decent. The key is to get mandrel bent pipes with a slightly larger size. The size of the piping is based on your future plans for the car. If you plan on staying naturally aspirated 2 ¼ is fine. If you plan on boosting or using nitrous 2.5-3” is best.
Once again here is my personal opinion. All of them are overpriced! If you live in sever weather conditions then I might see the need for stainless steel but otherwise I think it is better to have a custom catback made. I ordered the 2.5” mandrel bent pacesetter catback and had my own resonator and a different muffler put on. The sound is basically based on personal preference. A well designed catback will net 5-10 hp once again that is being generous.

Underdrive pulley:

As far as I know there is only one company that makes one and that is http://unorthodox.com. I have heard hearsay about custom made ones but havnt heard much more that that. The pulley does just what it says it underdrives. It is lighter and frees up Hp by reducing rotational mass on the crank. It does come with drawbacks though. Because it is smaller it it doesn’t turn your accessory belts as fast. This will cause AC to not work as well and it also may effect your power steering at idle as well as your alternator output at idle. I have heard rumors that because it doesn’t have a dampener to reduce crank vibration it can kill a motor. I have had mine for almost 3 years now with no ill effects. The pulley will let your car rev slightly quicker and gain around 5hp

Thermal spacers:

http://www.outlawengineering.com/index.html
These are spacers that go between the intake manifold and the head. The full kit comes with a spacer that will go between the throttle body and the Intake manifold. These are not really a power adding mod. These will help keep the power as your car heats up by reducing heat soak. The throttle body gets very hot because it has hot coolant running through it. The Heads are hot because of the coolant combined with the combustion process. The spaces isolate this heat from the intake manifold keeping incoming air cool.

More to come......

**b4tn** · 6-1-03, 16:06

Bored out throttle body:

About the biggest you can go before degradation of sidewall integrity is 65mm. I may be wrong but I don’t think any companies do this. You have to remove your throttle body and take it to a machine shop. Make sure you take it to a reputable place and make sure they cut the butterfly plate at the proper angle. Some people have had idle problems (including myself) after installing one. In most cases after driving around for awhile the idle will settle down to normal

Aftermarket ignition:

MSD: http://msdignition.com
Jacobs: http://www.jacobselectronics.com/products/products.htm

I don’t have much experience with the Jacobs but I hear that it is possible to install. I have installed the MSD and am very happy with the results. To install the MSD you will need some basic electronics knowledge and a modified distributor cap. If you have a 93-94 you can get a special adapter from MSD for free and not have to cut any wires. Otherwise you need to modify the disty here is the write up
http://rs-productions.com/RSP_Motors...stallation.ppt
An aftermarket ignition will allow you to run a larger gap in your plug, give a multiple spark discharge for a complete burn, and should improve gas mileage, throttle response, and power.

Intake manifold:

There are many options here. You can search around for a used KL-ZE manifold, have yours port matched, or find a Eunos manifold., All of which will open the ports up a bit and allow for more air. There are some problems though. The Eunos manifold has clearance problems and the ZE manifold requires a bit of fabrication and creativity to get installed keeping emissions in tact. For the ZE manifold the throttle cable will need relocated and some of the vacume lines will need to be tee’d. Also if you have the stock ECU your VRIS points are not going to be correct. You will need to somehow change your points either by a VRIS controller or by re-programming your ECU. http://corksport.com sells the ZE manifold for an ungodly price. Your best bet is to watch the forum for someone who is selling one.

Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator:

Cosmo: usually on E-bay
Aeromotive:
Mallory: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...305m&x=16&y=13

I use the Mallory and am very happy with it. It now has 1, -8an or 1/2" input and 3, 3/8" additional ports. In addition it does have a 1/8" npt port as well. The bypass or outlet is also -8 an or 1/2". You will need to get the appropriate steel braided hoses as well as fittings to install this. You will also need to get Mike Baxtors FPR adapter from http://mbxmotorsports.com You can remove your stock fpr, plug in the adapter, and run the lines to your AFPR. All the fittings and lines can be purchased from http://sumitracing.com The draw back is it doesn’t hold fuel pressure so it may take a bit longer to start the car in the morning. This can be resolved by giving the car a quick crank let it sit for about 2 seconds then turn it on. The adjustable Fuel pressure regulator allows you to adjust your fuel pressure to give the perfect about of fuel for your mods. A dyno with an Air Fuel bung is required to tune this properly.

Fuel pump:

Walbro in tank: http://www.autoperformanceengineerin.../fuelpump.html

Highly recommended! Especially if you have your stock pump your old one may be getting tired. In my opinion the walbro is the best. A 190 lph will be perfect for a stock replacement and even a shot of nitrous. However the 255 high flow is not that much more expensive. You might as well get the big boy to plan for the future. A fuel pump is required if you plan on running lots of boost or nitrous.

Still more......

**Stingray77** · 6-1-03, 16:29

Quote:

Originally posted by b4tn
Aftermarket ignition:

MSD: http://msdignition.com
Jacobs: http://www.jacobselectronics.com/products/products.htm

I don’t have much experience with the Jacobs but I hear that it is possible to install.

I sugest that a search on the net would be in order before considering jacobs, there are many mixed reviews.

Crane: http://www.cranecams.com/
Is offering a free coil with the Hi-6 (Part Number 6000-6440) and Hi-6 compact sport. 30 days left for this offer (june 30th). It hooks up exactly like a MSD, it is the 6AL's direct competition. It uses pot selectors for the rpm limiter, unlike MSD's pills and is a digital design.

**b4tn** · 6-1-03, 17:41

Lightened flywheel:

Fidanza : http://rr-racing.com
MX3: http://car-parts.com

This has been debated many times over. I don’t think the flywheel will add peak power. From the dynos I have seen it did nothing for peak power. However it will reduce rotational mass and it will make your car rev much quicker! It adds power but only for launching. I don’t realy know how to explain it other than that you will reach your power band quicker and get better launches off the line. The fidanza is for the hard core person who doesn’t mind having to rev match it is pretty pricey but I have heard nothing but good things about it. It weighs in at 9lb.

The MX3 flywheel is for the cheap at heart. It weighs considerably less than the stock flywheel at 13lb-15lb. You can usually get them at junkyards for around $50. I have the MX3 flywheel and am very happy with it. It revs noticeable quicker. Don’t forget that both flywheels will need to be taken to a shop and resurfaced if they are used.

Clutch:

ACT: http://www.ptuning.com
Clutch masters: http://rr-racing.com
South Bend: http://www.dxdracingclutches.com

There are many more out there but these are the three most common. The ACT has a very stiff pedal feel and a strong grip depending on which stage you get. Both South bend and clutch masters have modified the pressure plate to get maximum holding power while keeping a stock pedal feel.

It is amazing what an aftermarket clutch feels like! I have a Clutch masters Stage 3 and will never go back to a stock clutch again. It makes the car much more responsive, holds in the higher RPM range, and gives very solid launches. Lots of info can be found on these clutches just do a search and find the style that suits you needs. For nitrous and turbo apps generally the stage 3 is recommended. For N/A applications the Stage 1 is good. Also a braided Clutch line from http://rr-racing .com is recommended.

Short Shifter:

Pacesetter: http://nopionline.com
RR-racing: http://rr-racing.com
PRD: http://probesport.com

I actually made my own by cutting the ball out and turning it upside down. It works and I have no major complaints but it just doesn’t look nice.

Ther are a few others out there but once again these are the most common ones. I have seen all three and of all the rr-racing one is the nicest. It comes with poly bushings and a bearing to make nice smooth shifts. The short shifter will allow for quick precise shifts, it is almost a must with a lightened flywheel.

Stiff engine mounts:

Mazdaspeed: http://mazdaspeed.com
Poly inserts: http://rr-racing.com

Old tired or ripped engine mounts can reduce traction, loose horsepower, and make shifting difficult. You can get stock replacements but it is actually cheaper to get rafi’s inserts from rr-racing.com. They are very durable and I had no problems getting them installed. I noticed right away that shifting was easier. I have not seen any dyno plots proving that they make more power. One of the draw backs is vibration, while sitting at an idle the car does vibrate more than normal. The general consensus I got is the mazdaspeed mounts are too stiff almost solid.

Headers:

Bosal Brospeed: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probeexhaust.html
Hotshot: http://rr-racing.com
Pacesetter: http://nopionline.com or http://summitracing.com
Lots and lots of debate on which is the best header and why. It has been dyno proven the pacesetter headers make the most power. However, they are also the worst craftsmanship. In addition to being poorly put together they do not Have equal length secondary so the sound of the car is going to change drastically. If you can deal with the sound, and the poor craftsmanship, these are the cheapest headers out there. It isn’t that expensive to have a flex pipe welded on in place of the ball joint and have some of the welds re-done

I have not seen this personally but the bosals supposedly make a power across the entire band. I don’t know much more about them other than they have a ball joint and are overpriced.

The hotshots, until lately have been the best crafted best sounding headers available. They are ceramic coated, equal length secondary, and have a flex pipe. They are a bit pricey but most people highly recommend them. As of lately though the quality has been sort of poor.

**b4tn** · 6-1-03, 19:00

Nitrous:

NOS: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=NOS%2D05115
NX: http://nitrousexpress.com/
ZEX: http://zex.com/

Those are the most popular kits. For a very food FAQ on nitrous and our cars go here http://probetalk.com/forums/showthre...threadid=59818
The differences between the three is wet and Dry. I am not very familiar with the wet kit but I do know it allows you to use larger shots where the dry kit is limited to around 75hp. The most popular is probably the NOS Mustang EFI kit. There is lots of info on installing it on the forums. Before you even consider using nitrous you should just to be safe get a better fuel pump and check your compression, ensuring that all cylinders are with 15% of eachother. To make things safe you should use an MSD window switch to set the spray rpm’s you can get these from http://summitracing.com I use the NOS kit and have had no problems or complaints I am perfectly happy with it.

Cams:

Interprep: http://www.interpreptuning.com/
Colt: http://www.coltcams.com/
Mike Seli: http://probetalk.com/forums/showthre...highlight=cams
ZE Cams: http://corksport.com

Cams in this car can add up to 15hp! By far the best alaround deal is to get a re-grind from mike seli. He makes many grinds and will discuss with you which grind is best for your application. He can also get the colt cams.

The ZE cams can sometimes be found online for a decent price they better than the 03 cams and will give nice power but they are hard to come by and expensive from corksport.

Reprogrammed ECU/Stand alone Engine management:

I am not very familiar with this subject, I do know that buying an off the shelf pre-programmed ECU is a huge waste of money. The only way you will get anything decent from an ECU is to get your car on the dyno and have the tuner program the ECU according to your car.

Also not my expertise but a good deal anyway you could opt to get a stand alone engine management. The best deal I have seen yet is here. http://probetalk.com/forums/showthre...did=1701030002

Free Mods

Search for

Banjo bolt mod:
Raises fuel pressure.

IAT mod
For ATX MX6's

Throttlebody coolant bypass
Keeps the tb nice and cool

I think that is all of the major engine bolt ons you can get. If I am missing something post it up. There is still suspension mods to get into but I will let someone else go there.

**ODIN** · 7-27-03, 7:24

Note on converting an i4 mx6 to a v6 klze mx6:

This conversion can be done but it is nigh on impossible. The whole car has to be basically stripped down. New wiring harness etc, suspension, brakes etc... It is only really worth it you have industry contacts. Otherwise it is easier buying an mx6 with a blown v6.

**Marcus** · 8-11-03, 5:08

the j-spec I4 for the mx6 is NOT called a KFZE... the Japanese I4 for the mx6 is called an FSZE and the American variant is the FS01. The FSZE has a 170hp by the way and has only been transplanted successfully into 3 cars that I know of. One here and two on probetalk. Very hard and usually a turbo setup is MUCH easier.

You were right the KFZE is a Mazda engine and does produce 160hp. But it was the 2.0L V6 made for the 92+ MX3.

All this information I believe can be found at corksport too if you don't belive me.

**skiingman** · 10-1-03, 2:27

Someone make this sticky!

**Chunchoy14** · 10-1-03, 5:00

I moved the oil stuff into the projects forum. I hope you didn't mind

. And I'll sticky this thread.

11-10-03, 22:41

Hey
Nice post it was very helpful. Do you Know if anyone has use the hks on an 95 mx6. And if anyone had pics.? My friend has hks on his teg. but it is very high pitched and loud.
Has anyone used and up graded fuel pump? I need the right air to fuel ratio.
Thanks

**b4tn** · 11-10-03, 23:40

Quote:

Originally posted by PAmx-6p
Hey
Nice post it was very helpful. Do you Know if anyone has use the hks on an 95 mx6. And if anyone had pics.? My friend has hks on his teg. but it is very high pitched and loud.
Has anyone used and up graded fuel pump? I need the right air to fuel ratio.
Thanks

Unless your fuel pump is near dead it most likely wont change anything with your A/F ratio. If you want to tweak with that get an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator and hit the dyno. When I added my 255lph fuel pump my fuel pressure didnt rais any.

jessehendrix · 1-2-04, 1:01

thanks for the info it was very helpful. i am going to get an mx3 flywheel for my mx6 and i was just wondering who you would take it to to get it to to get it resurface. would i have to take it to a machine shop or could my normal mechanic do it

PatrickB · 1-15-04, 15:53

i was hoping to find some suspension information in here. maybe someone more w/ good mx6 suspension knowledge should write something up. however it may be on this site somewhere i just started looking..

DeeDub429 · 2-17-04, 10:28

Quote:

Originally posted by b4tn
Underdrive pulley:

As far as I know there is only one company that makes one and that is http://unorthodox.com.

Update:

I noticed on Probetalk that RR-Racing is now making it's own lightweight flywheel. AFAIK it's much cheaper than Unorthodox.

Dustin

**SilverLS** · 2-17-04, 21:22

Quote:

Originally posted by DeeDub429
Update:

I noticed on Probetalk that RR-Racing is now making it's own lightweight flywheel. AFAIK it's much cheaper than Unorthodox.

Dustin

got me all confused until i realized u meant to say underdrive pulley, not flywheel!!

6-1-03, 15:33	#1 (permalink)
b4tn Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: , Germany Age: 32 iTrader: (0)	MX6 Mods! Intake: Hot shot: http://rr-racing.com/intakes.htm PRM intake: http://corksport.com Modified Prelude intake: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread...prelude+intake (Prelude intake on 2.5 directions post questions here !!) Home depot: 3” ABS pipes to make any style you want. In my opinion the best intake is the home depot intake or the modified prelude intake. Both are cheap to make and yield the same results. The prelude intake will look better than the home depot intake. The part number for the K&N filter that will fit a 3 ½ inch ABS pipe is RU-3130. It will also fit a 3” pipe extra clamping is just required. The Cold Air intake will make your car sound different as well as give an approximate 3-5 hp Exhaust: Pacesetter catback: http://nopionline.com Borla Catback: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probe_exh_systems.html Brospeed Catback: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probe_exh_systems.html HKS Catback: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probe_exh_systems.html Greddy Catback: A Muffler is not a performance upgrade! You will gain if you are lucky 1-2 hp by adding just a muffler, the stock muffler is already pretty decent. The key is to get mandrel bent pipes with a slightly larger size. The size of the piping is based on your future plans for the car. If you plan on staying naturally aspirated 2 ¼ is fine. If you plan on boosting or using nitrous 2.5-3” is best. Once again here is my personal opinion. All of them are overpriced! If you live in sever weather conditions then I might see the need for stainless steel but otherwise I think it is better to have a custom catback made. I ordered the 2.5” mandrel bent pacesetter catback and had my own resonator and a different muffler put on. The sound is basically based on personal preference. A well designed catback will net 5-10 hp once again that is being generous. Underdrive pulley: As far as I know there is only one company that makes one and that is http://unorthodox.com. I have heard hearsay about custom made ones but havnt heard much more that that. The pulley does just what it says it underdrives. It is lighter and frees up Hp by reducing rotational mass on the crank. It does come with drawbacks though. Because it is smaller it it doesn’t turn your accessory belts as fast. This will cause AC to not work as well and it also may effect your power steering at idle as well as your alternator output at idle. I have heard rumors that because it doesn’t have a dampener to reduce crank vibration it can kill a motor. I have had mine for almost 3 years now with no ill effects. The pulley will let your car rev slightly quicker and gain around 5hp Thermal spacers: http://www.outlawengineering.com/index.html These are spacers that go between the intake manifold and the head. The full kit comes with a spacer that will go between the throttle body and the Intake manifold. These are not really a power adding mod. These will help keep the power as your car heats up by reducing heat soak. The throttle body gets very hot because it has hot coolant running through it. The Heads are hot because of the coolant combined with the combustion process. The spaces isolate this heat from the intake manifold keeping incoming air cool. More to come...... Last edited by b4tn : 6-1-03 at 19:03.
	2005 Stage 3 SRT-4 1995 V6 MX6 Turbo, SOLD to Holger Boosting in Germany My web page http://ibpwr.com

6-1-03, 16:06	#2 (permalink)
b4tn Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: , Germany Age: 32 iTrader: (0)	Part 2 Bored out throttle body: About the biggest you can go before degradation of sidewall integrity is 65mm. I may be wrong but I don’t think any companies do this. You have to remove your throttle body and take it to a machine shop. Make sure you take it to a reputable place and make sure they cut the butterfly plate at the proper angle. Some people have had idle problems (including myself) after installing one. In most cases after driving around for awhile the idle will settle down to normal Aftermarket ignition: MSD: http://msdignition.com Jacobs: http://www.jacobselectronics.com/products/products.htm I don’t have much experience with the Jacobs but I hear that it is possible to install. I have installed the MSD and am very happy with the results. To install the MSD you will need some basic electronics knowledge and a modified distributor cap. If you have a 93-94 you can get a special adapter from MSD for free and not have to cut any wires. Otherwise you need to modify the disty here is the write up http://rs-productions.com/RSP_Motors...stallation.ppt An aftermarket ignition will allow you to run a larger gap in your plug, give a multiple spark discharge for a complete burn, and should improve gas mileage, throttle response, and power. Intake manifold: There are many options here. You can search around for a used KL-ZE manifold, have yours port matched, or find a Eunos manifold., All of which will open the ports up a bit and allow for more air. There are some problems though. The Eunos manifold has clearance problems and the ZE manifold requires a bit of fabrication and creativity to get installed keeping emissions in tact. For the ZE manifold the throttle cable will need relocated and some of the vacume lines will need to be tee’d. Also if you have the stock ECU your VRIS points are not going to be correct. You will need to somehow change your points either by a VRIS controller or by re-programming your ECU. http://corksport.com sells the ZE manifold for an ungodly price. Your best bet is to watch the forum for someone who is selling one. Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator: Cosmo: usually on E-bay Aeromotive: Mallory: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...305m&x=16&y=13 I use the Mallory and am very happy with it. It now has 1, -8an or 1/2" input and 3, 3/8" additional ports. In addition it does have a 1/8" npt port as well. The bypass or outlet is also -8 an or 1/2". You will need to get the appropriate steel braided hoses as well as fittings to install this. You will also need to get Mike Baxtors FPR adapter from http://mbxmotorsports.com You can remove your stock fpr, plug in the adapter, and run the lines to your AFPR. All the fittings and lines can be purchased from http://sumitracing.com The draw back is it doesn’t hold fuel pressure so it may take a bit longer to start the car in the morning. This can be resolved by giving the car a quick crank let it sit for about 2 seconds then turn it on. The adjustable Fuel pressure regulator allows you to adjust your fuel pressure to give the perfect about of fuel for your mods. A dyno with an Air Fuel bung is required to tune this properly. Fuel pump: Walbro in tank: http://www.autoperformanceengineerin.../fuelpump.html Highly recommended! Especially if you have your stock pump your old one may be getting tired. In my opinion the walbro is the best. A 190 lph will be perfect for a stock replacement and even a shot of nitrous. However the 255 high flow is not that much more expensive. You might as well get the big boy to plan for the future. A fuel pump is required if you plan on running lots of boost or nitrous. Still more...... Last edited by b4tn : 6-1-03 at 19:02.
	2005 Stage 3 SRT-4 1995 V6 MX6 Turbo, SOLD to Holger Boosting in Germany My web page http://ibpwr.com

6-1-03, 17:41	#4 (permalink)
b4tn Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: , Germany Age: 32 iTrader: (0)	Part 3 Lightened flywheel: Fidanza : http://rr-racing.com MX3: http://car-parts.com This has been debated many times over. I don’t think the flywheel will add peak power. From the dynos I have seen it did nothing for peak power. However it will reduce rotational mass and it will make your car rev much quicker! It adds power but only for launching. I don’t realy know how to explain it other than that you will reach your power band quicker and get better launches off the line. The fidanza is for the hard core person who doesn’t mind having to rev match it is pretty pricey but I have heard nothing but good things about it. It weighs in at 9lb. The MX3 flywheel is for the cheap at heart. It weighs considerably less than the stock flywheel at 13lb-15lb. You can usually get them at junkyards for around $50. I have the MX3 flywheel and am very happy with it. It revs noticeable quicker. Don’t forget that both flywheels will need to be taken to a shop and resurfaced if they are used. Clutch: ACT: http://www.ptuning.com Clutch masters: http://rr-racing.com South Bend: http://www.dxdracingclutches.com There are many more out there but these are the three most common. The ACT has a very stiff pedal feel and a strong grip depending on which stage you get. Both South bend and clutch masters have modified the pressure plate to get maximum holding power while keeping a stock pedal feel. It is amazing what an aftermarket clutch feels like! I have a Clutch masters Stage 3 and will never go back to a stock clutch again. It makes the car much more responsive, holds in the higher RPM range, and gives very solid launches. Lots of info can be found on these clutches just do a search and find the style that suits you needs. For nitrous and turbo apps generally the stage 3 is recommended. For N/A applications the Stage 1 is good. Also a braided Clutch line from http://rr-racing .com is recommended. Short Shifter: Pacesetter: http://nopionline.com RR-racing: http://rr-racing.com PRD: http://probesport.com I actually made my own by cutting the ball out and turning it upside down. It works and I have no major complaints but it just doesn’t look nice. Ther are a few others out there but once again these are the most common ones. I have seen all three and of all the rr-racing one is the nicest. It comes with poly bushings and a bearing to make nice smooth shifts. The short shifter will allow for quick precise shifts, it is almost a must with a lightened flywheel. Stiff engine mounts: Mazdaspeed: http://mazdaspeed.com Poly inserts: http://rr-racing.com Old tired or ripped engine mounts can reduce traction, loose horsepower, and make shifting difficult. You can get stock replacements but it is actually cheaper to get rafi’s inserts from rr-racing.com. They are very durable and I had no problems getting them installed. I noticed right away that shifting was easier. I have not seen any dyno plots proving that they make more power. One of the draw backs is vibration, while sitting at an idle the car does vibrate more than normal. The general consensus I got is the mazdaspeed mounts are too stiff almost solid. Headers: Bosal Brospeed: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probeexhaust.html Hotshot: http://rr-racing.com Pacesetter: http://nopionline.com or http://summitracing.com Lots and lots of debate on which is the best header and why. It has been dyno proven the pacesetter headers make the most power. However, they are also the worst craftsmanship. In addition to being poorly put together they do not Have equal length secondary so the sound of the car is going to change drastically. If you can deal with the sound, and the poor craftsmanship, these are the cheapest headers out there. It isn’t that expensive to have a flex pipe welded on in place of the ball joint and have some of the welds re-done I have not seen this personally but the bosals supposedly make a power across the entire band. I don’t know much more about them other than they have a ball joint and are overpriced. The hotshots, until lately have been the best crafted best sounding headers available. They are ceramic coated, equal length secondary, and have a flex pipe. They are a bit pricey but most people highly recommend them. As of lately though the quality has been sort of poor. Last edited by b4tn : 6-1-03 at 19:01.
	2005 Stage 3 SRT-4 1995 V6 MX6 Turbo, SOLD to Holger Boosting in Germany My web page http://ibpwr.com

6-1-03, 19:00	#5 (permalink)
b4tn Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: , Germany Age: 32 iTrader: (0)	Final Nitrous: NOS: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=NOS%2D05115 NX: http://nitrousexpress.com/ ZEX: http://zex.com/ Those are the most popular kits. For a very food FAQ on nitrous and our cars go here http://probetalk.com/forums/showthre...threadid=59818 The differences between the three is wet and Dry. I am not very familiar with the wet kit but I do know it allows you to use larger shots where the dry kit is limited to around 75hp. The most popular is probably the NOS Mustang EFI kit. There is lots of info on installing it on the forums. Before you even consider using nitrous you should just to be safe get a better fuel pump and check your compression, ensuring that all cylinders are with 15% of eachother. To make things safe you should use an MSD window switch to set the spray rpm’s you can get these from http://summitracing.com I use the NOS kit and have had no problems or complaints I am perfectly happy with it. Cams: Interprep: http://www.interpreptuning.com/ Colt: http://www.coltcams.com/ Mike Seli: http://probetalk.com/forums/showthre...highlight=cams ZE Cams: http://corksport.com Cams in this car can add up to 15hp! By far the best alaround deal is to get a re-grind from mike seli. He makes many grinds and will discuss with you which grind is best for your application. He can also get the colt cams. The ZE cams can sometimes be found online for a decent price they better than the 03 cams and will give nice power but they are hard to come by and expensive from corksport. Reprogrammed ECU/Stand alone Engine management: I am not very familiar with this subject, I do know that buying an off the shelf pre-programmed ECU is a huge waste of money. The only way you will get anything decent from an ECU is to get your car on the dyno and have the tuner program the ECU according to your car. Also not my expertise but a good deal anyway you could opt to get a stand alone engine management. The best deal I have seen yet is here. http://probetalk.com/forums/showthre...did=1701030002 Free Mods Search for Banjo bolt mod: Raises fuel pressure. IAT mod For ATX MX6's Throttlebody coolant bypass Keeps the tb nice and cool I think that is all of the major engine bolt ons you can get. If I am missing something post it up. There is still suspension mods to get into but I will let someone else go there. Last edited by b4tn : 6-1-03 at 19:07.
	2005 Stage 3 SRT-4 1995 V6 MX6 Turbo, SOLD to Holger Boosting in Germany My web page http://ibpwr.com

7-27-03, 7:24	#6 (permalink)
ODIN Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Canberra, Australia Age: 29 iTrader: (0)	Note on converting an i4 mx6 to a v6 klze mx6: This conversion can be done but it is nigh on impossible. The whole car has to be basically stripped down. New wiring harness etc, suspension, brakes etc... It is only really worth it you have industry contacts. Otherwise it is easier buying an mx6 with a blown v6.
	Sold: 93 MX6 4WS Current Car: R32 Skyline GTS4 Sedan

8-11-03, 5:08	#7 (permalink)
Marcus Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Las Vegas, NV Age: 29 iTrader: (0)	the j-spec I4 for the mx6 is NOT called a KFZE... the Japanese I4 for the mx6 is called an FSZE and the American variant is the FS01. The FSZE has a 170hp by the way and has only been transplanted successfully into 3 cars that I know of. One here and two on probetalk. Very hard and usually a turbo setup is MUCH easier. You were right the KFZE is a Mazda engine and does produce 160hp. But it was the 2.0L V6 made for the 92+ MX3. All this information I believe can be found at corksport too if you don't belive me. Last edited by aggiedj02 : 8-11-03 at 5:11.
	2002 White Mustang GT... not stock

10-1-03, 2:27	#8 (permalink)
skiingman Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Between a Rock and a Hard Place iTrader: (0)	Someone make this sticky!
	Wikipedia is a Massively Multiplayer Online Role-Playing Game (MMORPG) in which participants play editors of a hypothetical online encyclopedia, where they try to insert misinformation that they are randomly assigned when they create their accounts, while preventing contrary information from being entered by others. Players with similar misinformation to promote will generally form "guilds" in order to aid each other.

10-1-03, 5:00	#9 (permalink)
Chunchoy14 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: San Francisco,CA iTrader: (0)	I moved the oil stuff into the projects forum. I hope you didn't mind . And I'll sticky this thread.
	95 Viper Blue Mazda Mx-6 M62 SC'ed and MS'ed KLZE 85k on body and motor. 89 White mx6 gt- 90k crashedRIP 88 mx6 gt blown headgasket- *RIP 88 mx6 gt 150k new motor soon 1991 Mazda Miata

11-10-03, 22:41	#10 (permalink)
PAmx-6p Location:	Hey Nice post it was very helpful. Do you Know if anyone has use the hks on an 95 mx6. And if anyone had pics.? My friend has hks on his teg. but it is very high pitched and loud. Has anyone used and up graded fuel pump? I need the right air to fuel ratio. Thanks
PAmx-6p Location:

1-2-04, 1:01	#12 (permalink)
jessehendrix Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: tennessee Age: 22 iTrader: (0)	mx3 flywheel? thanks for the info it was very helpful. i am going to get an mx3 flywheel for my mx6 and i was just wondering who you would take it to to get it to to get it resurface. would i have to take it to a machine shop or could my normal mechanic do it

1-15-04, 15:53	#13 (permalink)
PatrickB Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Louisville KY Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	i was hoping to find some suspension information in here. maybe someone more w/ good mx6 suspension knowledge should write something up. however it may be on this site somewhere i just started looking..