So you've been reading these boards, and you've heard about some KLZE engine!! You probably want to know some things about it, Why you should get it, Where you can get it, How much it costs, and How hard it is to install. Well, Thats why I wrote this little How-To ...
The KLZE is just one variation of the KL family Mazda designed motors. The KLZE is featured in several mazda cars in japan, and it is sometimes referred to as the "J-spec"(japenese spec) motor. Like the KL03 (its american "A-spec" counterpart), it features a 2.5 Liter V6 engine, with Mazda's VRIS (varible resonant Induction system), capable of roaring effortlessly into the 7000+ RPM range.This motor with a good driver should break into the high 14sec 1/4 mile times, and possibly when properly tuned w/all bolt-ons, proper ECU, good clutch and good driver may net 13sec times.
Its ability to make more power are from:
A different Intake Manifold design, with significantly larger intake runners, allowing more air to flow.
A different set of cams that are more aggresive.
A higher compression of 10:1.
Other differences are:
No EGR, In Japan they have a different emmision regulations, you should consider this if you are looking into the KLZE swap.
Has an Ignitor-less Distributer, It featured a sepearte Coil-pack , You will have to swap over your A-spec Distro.
Was primarily equipped in ATX cars.
Came with a couple different Intake Manifold Variations. (MS8 and Eunos 800)
Where can I get one of these KLZE engines??
They can be had from several engine importers, Most popular is Corksport ( www.corksport.com ) they can get the J-spec ECU , and as a company are familiar with the swap.
Other sources can be found by visiting www.probeparts.com . Prices vary between the $950 I got mine for, up to $2000+
So what Do I need to Know to Install it??
The KLZE is a direct bolt in, meaning exactly that!! All sensors, harnesses, Mounts, and even aftermarket bolt-on performance parts will work with just as it would a KL03. The swap is no harder than it would be to swap a KL03 for another KL03, with the addition of swapping distributors, and a little re-routing of a vacumm line. If you are hiring a mechanic, I would probably go as far as not even telling them that it is a J-spec motor.
You will also have to have, an aftermarket Air Intake, As per the intake manifold difference, there is a longer neck leading into the throttle body, causing the stock air-box to not fit in correctly. Id recomend getting a true Cold Air Intake system. Hotshot makes an excellent one.
you first need to start off the job by getting ready to remove the old engine from the car. Im listing them in the basic order I followed when doing mine, you may have a slightly differnent or more effecient order/process, but My goal is to get the basic Idea Across . This is a quick generalization of engine removal, my goal with this write up was not to focus on the work entailing an engine swap, but more or less the differences when swapping to a KLZE
-Undo all wiring harness connectors, and securely tie them out of the way so no damage is done to them during the swap.
-Remove battery and the battery tray (this is to have later access to the trany bell-housing bolts)
-Relieve Fuel Pressure, by unscrewing the gas cap (you may want to unplug the fuse for the Fuel Pump, and run the car, making this the first step!!)
-Undo All coolant hoses, Fuel Hoses, Power Steering Hoses, anything else that is attached to the engine.
-Jack up the car, and remove front wheels
-undo exhaust manifold from the heads (this may need a swear jar, because of old rusted bolts!!)
-place a jack under the engine to support it once you removing motor and transmission mounts!!
-pull the axles from the transmission
-remove motor mounts, and transmission mounts, so that the engine is now free to lift out of the engine bay!!
this is what it looks like with no engine and transmission!!
Prep-work for the KLZE, and other things to do while engine is out of the car!!
Now is the time to do all preventitive maintenance jobs, I would not do this engine swap without at least putting on a new timing belt and installing a new water pump. I also would do new valve cover gaskets, Phenolic spacers (read http://home.san.rr.com/scmorgan/spacers/index.html ).
You will have to obviously un-bolt your old transmission and bolt it up to your new engine, so a new performance clutch is recomended to be thrown in at this time, and if possible a lightended MX3 flywheel!!
You could also use this time to install some headers, or an under drive pully.
now that you have everything in place on the engine ready to drop it back in the car, installation is exactly reversal of removal, just take your time, make sure you do everything right. You can use the ZE throttle Body, you can use the ZE fuel rails, everything except the distributer because, in japan they used an ignitor-less distro with external coil. The engine will slide perfectly in place, and even though it may seem like a tight squeeze with the throttle body next to the brake master resivoir, it will fit!!
Once the engine is all mounted up, and the axles are back in the car, and you are ready to button everything up, you will have re-route some vacumm lines ....
basically there are only a few lines that will have had to remove from the car in the first place, MOST of those lines go right back into the same place, there are two differences that I encountered:
The nipple on the Intake Manifold that is for the line that comes from the vacumm chambers feeding into the "T" leading into the two VRIS vacumm actuators, is located generally in the middle of back of the Intake Manifold on the KL03, that nipple is now on the passanger side of the Intake Manifold, just to the Left of the #1 Vris Vacumm Actuator.
On the Front of the Intake Manifold, there is only One Nipple. Whereas on the KL03 Intake manifold there were two. One is for the Cruise control, the other was for the Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve, the fix for this is simple, where you only have one Nipple simply use a "T" like what is on the vacumm lines leading into the Vris Acuators. (You could actually even use the "T" that is on the windsheild Washer fluid lines feeding the Nozzles in the hood)
Now that you got the motor in, and all connections have been made, you are ready to fire her up!!, You Should have used synthetic motor oil, and should expect a little smoke, ticking and rough idle (after all this engine could have been sitting for more than a year!!)
while she is running, go through with a timing light, and make sure she is in time, rotating the distributer to adjust. tighten down once appropriate time has been acheived.
Let it run for a few hours, watching the coolant Temperature Guage, and checking fluids, It should after a few minutes she should stop smoking and the ticking should have quieted a bit, (as the oil lubricates, ticking should be gone completly after a day or so) For the next few days, check the all fluids daily, take it somewhat easy (I know its tempting to floor it, to test your newly acquired power), and then do an oil change after about 1000 miles
The car will run just fine with the A-spec computer but, in order to acheive the full power potential of the KLZE, you need to get the proper VRIS points, and the proper Fuel delivery (which is controlled by the PCM) to the engine. There has been Dynoed evidence that with the right ECU you will have an additional 7-9WHP. Here are a couple of options that you have:
Get a Re-programmed ECU from Corksport
Get a true J-spec ECU
Get a EL prototypes ECU re-program
Go with a stand-alone fuel system control
The easiest way is to just get the re-burn for Corksport/EL, Unfortuanatly they charge $395 to do this .... they are simply taking the Eprom information from a true J-spec ECU, and making it compatible with the A-spec VAF, removing the EGR CEL code, and removing the 115MPH speed governer.
Getting a True KLZE J-spec ECU may be harder to come by, but it should be cheaper (unless an importer is ripping you off!!), you will have to get the J-spec VAF (numbered JE50) in order to run this ECU, You can also simply bypass the 115MPH speed governer by clipping the wire the goes from the speedo to the ECU, the ECU cant govern speed when It dont know the speed to govern!!
A stand-alone control system, would be the Most expensive route, While it would give you the most flexibility in tuning, and if you ever upgraded to a turbo, offer good functionality. It still doesnt change the Vris Points from the A-spec ECU, leaving you with the wrong VRIS opening points on the KLZE!!
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