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Old 3-10-04, 23:05   #1 (permalink)
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Post How to change Valve Cover Gaskets Writeup

Replacing The Valve Cover Gaskets

Tools needed: Metric Sockets 10mm through 20mm, a Ratchet, a magnetic extension for the ratchet,Torque wrench with Inch Lbs, Brake cleaner, Oil Pan, Needle nose plyiers (long one), Slip Jaw plyers, 4 plastic baggys or small boxes, and a flat head screw driver.

WARNING! Changing your valve cover gaskets is a difficult and lenghty task, and can result in engine failure if done wrong. If your not experienced with engines or how an engine works, do not proceed to change your gaskets. This is a write up with a small amount of pictures, that is done for a reason, if you need lots of pictures, then you dont know enought about your car to do this! so stop now, or good luck

Parts you will need:

(2) Vavle cover gaskets/and grommets if needed
(2) Intake manifold gaskets
(1) Throttle body Gasket
(2) copper crush washers for fuel rail connection. (ive heard you can use the old ones)

Releiving the fuel pressure

Pull out the fuel pump relay and start the car. The fuel pump relay is located in ther fuse box in the engine compartment. It is the only Green relay in the fuse box, if it is not green is should be denoted as the circuit relay NF02. The car should idle for a while and stall. This releives the fuel pressure in the fuel rails connected to the intake manifold.

Removing your battery

In order to make things easyiest you should remove your battery entirely, not just un hook it. If you do not remove it, make sure you do unhook the battery. If you removed your battery, the best place to put it is in your trunk or some where off the ground, if you set it on the cement it could loose its charge.

Removing your Intake.

You will need to remove the rubber elbow connected to the throttle body, the VAF, and the air box. (or cold air intake if you have that)

Removing your spark plug wires

I took the time to make a diagram on how the plug wires are connected to the engine and distributer, This will help in putting the engine back together. You will need to remove the plug wires from the engine, but not the distributer, *you can if you want* i just placed them where the battery was.

^This diagram is how you will reassemble the spark plug wires.^

Last edited by Goatcrapp; 2-24-06 at 15:54..

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Old 3-10-04, 23:06   #2 (permalink)
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Post Replacing The Valve Cover Gaskets

Removing electical plugs

You now will need to remove the plugs for the electical devices on the engine. You will need to remove the plugs to the right side of the engine bay TPS, Fuel injectors, Distributer, and anything else that will get in the way or catch on something.

Removing hoses from the Throttle body

You will now need to remove the pcv hoses and coolant hoses from the throttle body, this is done to allow the throttle body enought room to let you pull the intake manifold off. The first step to doing this is removing the electrical plug on the throttle body and then throttle body its self., there are 2 bolts and 2 nuts holding it on, loosen them and put them in a baggy or box. Now you will need to remove 2 coolant hoses, 1 is a small hose connected to the throttle body. and the other hose is a big hose that runs below the thrrotle body. You will lose some coolant, this is what the oil pan is for. First remove the small hose you can see on the outside of the throttle body, Then remove the bigger hose below the throttle body. You now should be able to pull the throttle body off the 2 studs a little and see whats on the other side of it. There will be 1 small coolant hose and another bigger hose wich leads to the intake manifold., You only need to remove the big hose that goes to the Intake manifold. Your now done with the throttle body for a while.

Removing the vacuum hoses from the Intake manifold

Carefully remove the vacuum hoses that connect only to the manifold, the hoses that connect to the fire wall do not need to be disconnected. There is a large hose that connects to the rear of the manifold to the rear valve cover, you need to remove this. Now remove your VRIS mount, there should be a shroud peice over the VRIS, take that off, Then there should be 2 small 10mm head bolts holding the VRIS mount on, remove them and put them in a baggy. You do not need the shroud peice.

Fuel lines

Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Discard the 2 copper crush washers. Also disconnect the fuel return line and vacuum lines to the fuel pressure regulator. you must plug the line that went into the pressure regulator to prevent gas leaking.

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Old 3-10-04, 23:07   #3 (permalink)
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Removing your Intake manifold

Finally, there is a bracket that holds the egr solenoid valve that is attached to the rear head and the back of the intake manifold. you MUST remove the bolts that attachs it to the manifold. It is tricky, but perseverance will pay off. It is unnecassary to replace this bolt when reassembling the engine.
Now you can remove the Intake manifold, there are 8 bolts and 4 nuts attaching the manifold to the heads, after removing them put them in a baggy or box.

Removing the intake manifold from the engine bay

Make sure there is nothing holding the manifold down. You will need to carefully lift up on the manifold and prop a rag under a side of the runner. You now should have enought room to remove the Throttle body completly from the manifold.Just lay it aside. Once it is removed, proceed to remove the manifold and put it some where clean ( like a box or on a towel/rag)
You may want to stuff rags into the intake ports on the engine to keep debri from getting in them.
Now is a good time to inspect the intake valves, to see how bad carbon build up is. There should be None!.
Make sure to clean the surface of the intake ports.

Removing your Valve covers

The bolts you are about to remove are 10mm, You can take them off in any order. You also will need to remove the Wireing on the front of the front valve cover. Put all the bolts that went to this valve cover in a seperate baggy or box, also out your oil cap in the same baggy to help you remember with baggy is wich. Now you can remove the rear valve cover, and put the bolts to that in a seperate baggy.
Remove the gaskets to the valve covers, and clean out the inside of the valve covers with the brake cleaner, taking extra care to clean out the parts where the gaskets were.

If you plan to paint your valve covers and intake manifold, this is the best time to do it.

Cleaning where the gaskets matched on the head.

Use a razor blade to clean off the old gasket residue where the gaskets met on the head.This is a very important part, to insure you get a good seal.


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Old 3-10-04, 23:09   #4 (permalink)
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Putting gaskets and valve covers back on.
Your now ready to re assemble, Figure out wich gaskets go on wich valve cover, and place the gasket in the slots in the valve cover provided for the gasket. Now you will need to wipe a small amount of oil on the gasket, dip your finger in the oil of the head and wipe a thin coat of oil on the entire gasket and proceed to put the valve cover back on the head. Do this to the next valve cover as well. You now can put the bolts to the covers back in, snugging them up, not hand tight, just snug. You will need to torque these in a specail order.

Torque specification: 72-78 inch lbs. or 9Nm
Torque sequence:
Use this for both Valve covers.

Putting the Intake manifold back on

First place your Manifold gaskets over the studs to keep them in place.

^^Outlaw Thermo Spacers Shown^^(for thermo spacers use silicone on each side of the gaskets)
Now you can carfully place the Intake manifold back on the engine, again place a rag under the runner to allow enought space to put the throttle body back on. First place the new gasket for the throttle body on the 2 studs to keep it in place, Then reconnect the hose that goes from the throttle body to the intake manifold. Now you can slide the throttle body back on the studs. it wont go all the way back on. You now take the rag out from under the runner, and this should allow the throttle body to slide on freely. Proceed to put the nuts on the studs and bolts in. Snug them, do not tighten.
Torque them to 17 Ft Lbs.
Now you can replace the nuts and bolts to the intake manifold, Use a needle nose plyers to help putting the nuts and bolts in the rear runner. Snug all of the nuts and bolts, do not tighten.

You now have to torque them to 17FT Lbs also, in this seqeunce:

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Old 3-10-04, 23:10   #5 (permalink)
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putting together the fuel lines

You can now connect the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator and replace the vacuum line as well. Install the 2 copper crush washers on to the other fuel line fitting and torque the banjo bolt to 24 Ft Lbs.


You now should re connect the coolant hoses to the throttle body, and reconnect all of the electrical plugs. Make sure everything is in its correct place.

Re assembling the Vacuum lines

This can be a difficult job, but will pay off. You can remount the VRIS mount bracket and follow this diagram very closely.

Everything else Is self explanitory, Proceed to put things back on the car, such as battery, intake, spark plug wires...ect. If you havent already done so, replace the fuel relay.

Once you are done, start the car to see how it runs. It should run exactly the way it did before you worked on it...if not better. Also take it for a ride to see how it runs. You may need to add coolant if you lost a sufficent amount.

I did this over a course of 3 days... It took 2 days to get the gaskets. I recomend taking the time to do this right. it should take 1 day - 6 to 8 hrs max.

Last edited by RicedoutMx6; 3-10-04 at 23:21..

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