Kia manufactuers the FE3 under license from Mazda. They purchased tooling and copies of blue prints. It is the same engine other than some minor changes. Like converting it to RWD.
The most significant change, as related to a swap, is that Kia decided to use the crankshaft from the RF 2.0 diesel (with the 8 bolt flywheel) to save manufacturing and inventory costs as the crank is common to both engines. The Sportage is sold mostly with the diesel engine in other countries.
Q: How do I know its a real FE3?
A: When you are looking at the motor as if it were in the car, on the head right below the valve cover, on the left hand side is stamped FE3N. That is how you know
Q: Hey guys is there anyway to differentiate between the 9:1 and 10:1 versions other then the cat? Cause if the motor is out of the car and already here how would you know?
A: Pistons. Look down the sparkplug hole and if the pistons are slightly domed with a round dome then they are 10:1. If the pistons are slightly dished they are the lower CR items.
Q: is it easier to get an FE3 into a GT or LX/DX. What year is best, if any. What kind of wiring/harness setups have to be rigged if using a f2t ecu?
A: the GT/GL/DX are the same engine bays, the differences are boxes and driveshafts........... but LX/DX will handle Fe DOHC.
Year does not matter.
Harness wise, its easer to start with GT, you already have electronic Dizzy(that would need to be moddified), and knock sensor plug and better injector conectors.
obviously its better to have a Fe DOHC ECU and Harness, but its a pain(BIG PAIN, trust me i know, im going through this) to join Front harness, AC harness of F2 to Fe DOHC main harness..... but at the end you get better system. The abosulte best way to install the FE3 the right way is to use a standalone computer. Using the F2 or F2T ecus will net a poor running car and you may blow the motor.