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Mazdarati · 6-18-03, 6:19

Car/Model/Engine/Year: 626/hatchback/1.8 FP 16V/1995

Method of forced induction used: KKK/audi turbocharger, watercooled center jacket. Integral wastegate. This unit was bought as a used turbo from an Audi A4 1.8T. WILL be upgrading soon to an Audi TT charger or a T3.

Intercooled or not, type of your choice: Starion Intercooler

Piping/drive system for SC's: Custom made setup from the scratch. 2½" intake piping from turbo to IM. Exhaust has been upgraded to 2½" with a dual tips also.

Fuel mods: Added Bosch 250 LPH fuel pump, 2 Nippon Denso 440 ml additional injectors - currently just using one. Injector is controlled by a programmable SMT unit.

Engine/tranny mods: Stock internals, reinforced pressure plate and organic disk - should be good for around 350 hp.

Special features on your system: Oil pressure/temp gauges, HKS boost gauge, A/F Gauge, HKS SSQV, programmable ignition via maps on a laptop. Mechanical boost control, soon upgrading to an A'pexi AVC-R.

Performance: Dynoed to 168 whp - it's faster than a stock V6.

Was it hard to come up with this: Yes - you need to have a lot of knowledge and special tools combined with a lot of creativity.

What is your knowledge about cars: I don't have education on working on cars, but reading maximum boost, a lot of internet resources and talking to experienced turbo system builders helped me reach my goal.

How long did it take to build your system: Shopping took around 1 month, but the install itself was done in 2 days.

How much money have you spent on this all: I have spend 3000$ on parts and a little labour on the side. Will be spending more soon, and i have not regret spending 500$ on my programmable fuel/ignition management.

What is your advice for people who wants to get boosted: Gain your knowledge, take your time, plan before you do, don't save your $ on the fuel system. Sadly, i've experienced that usually the EXPENSIVE parts actually are a lot better than the cheap ones - take my HKS boost gauge as an example. I compared it with my one of my buds 35$ gauge, and it was a lot smoother plus it showed 0.1 bar more boost at top end, and it didn't fluctuate under vacuum. Fuel and ignition are ESSENTIAL

6-18-03, 6:19	#16 (permalink)
Mazdarati Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Country of Denmark - NOT Norway or Sweden. Age: 26 iTrader: (0)	Car/Model/Engine/Year: 626/hatchback/1.8 FP 16V/1995 Method of forced induction used: KKK/audi turbocharger, watercooled center jacket. Integral wastegate. This unit was bought as a used turbo from an Audi A4 1.8T. WILL be upgrading soon to an Audi TT charger or a T3. Intercooled or not, type of your choice: Starion Intercooler Piping/drive system for SC's: Custom made setup from the scratch. 2½" intake piping from turbo to IM. Exhaust has been upgraded to 2½" with a dual tips also. Fuel mods: Added Bosch 250 LPH fuel pump, 2 Nippon Denso 440 ml additional injectors - currently just using one. Injector is controlled by a programmable SMT unit. Engine/tranny mods: Stock internals, reinforced pressure plate and organic disk - should be good for around 350 hp. Special features on your system: Oil pressure/temp gauges, HKS boost gauge, A/F Gauge, HKS SSQV, programmable ignition via maps on a laptop. Mechanical boost control, soon upgrading to an A'pexi AVC-R. Performance: Dynoed to 168 whp - it's faster than a stock V6. Was it hard to come up with this: Yes - you need to have a lot of knowledge and special tools combined with a lot of creativity. What is your knowledge about cars: I don't have education on working on cars, but reading maximum boost, a lot of internet resources and talking to experienced turbo system builders helped me reach my goal. How long did it take to build your system: Shopping took around 1 month, but the install itself was done in 2 days. How much money have you spent on this all: I have spend 3000$ on parts and a little labour on the side. Will be spending more soon, and i have not regret spending 500$ on my programmable fuel/ignition management. What is your advice for people who wants to get boosted: Gain your knowledge, take your time, plan before you do, don't save your $ on the fuel system. Sadly, i've experienced that usually the EXPENSIVE parts actually are a lot better than the cheap ones - take my HKS boost gauge as an example. I compared it with my one of my buds 35$ gauge, and it was a lot smoother plus it showed 0.1 bar more boost at top end, and it didn't fluctuate under vacuum. Fuel and ignition are ESSENTIAL Last edited by Mazdarati : 7-9-04 at 2:34.
	'95 626 1.8 litre E/spec. 18", Bodykit, Turbo smokin: