MX6.com - View Single Post - KLZE Intake Manifold (IM) Installation Guide

Omaha95PGT · 11-11-03, 7:20

Finishing touches and tips to the installation:
-If you use the stock TB rubber elbow, you will probably be able to keep your cruise control.

-While you have the IM off, you should consider changing all of the old rubber vac hoses with fresh rubber vac hoses or silicone vac hoses. You will need at least 10 feet but most likely up to 20 feet worth of hose (there are a lot of vac hoses). You should also consider changing the rear valve cover gasket and/or adding a rear motor mount insert.

-I used a thin coat non-hardening gasket sealant on the IM to head spacer and for the TB to IM spacer. I also used copper spray-on gasket sealer on a different installation which seems to have worked well also.

-consider changing or adding on to the clamps for all of the various hoses especially the fuel line hose that goes to the FPR and the coolant lines that goes to the coolant hard line under the TB and the lines running to the IAC coolant ports. Otherwise, you may experience coolant and fuel leaks

-I would highly recommend that you use new copper washers for the banjo bolt that mounts to the fuel rail

-Remove the 2 bolts that attach the hard fuel lines to the engine block. Otherwise, you may not be able to get the hard fuel line (the one with the banjo bolt) to line up with the fuel rail which has been elevated by the phenolic spacers.

-If you swap over your fuel rail, be sure not to lose any of the 6 O-ring gasket/washers that seal the injector to IM mating points.

-adjust your TPS and idle once you have everything installed. Follow the instructions in your manual or you can follow the instructions in the following link: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132803 (TPS Adjustment Procedure:)

-I would recommend using the 03 hard vac and PCV piping underneath the IM since the ZE hard line piping seems to be missing some ports

-Zip tie everything into neat bunches. Especially any vac lines behind the IM. There is a risk that some hoses my contact the rear exhaust manifold/header and melt

-be sure to allow the car to idle for a while and check for fuel leaks

-after about 1 day or 20 miles whichever comes first, recheck the torque on the IM nuts and bolts. They tend to loosen up initially after installation. Recheck 2-3 more times over the following few days then in a week to make sure everything is snug. After about 2 weeks or 500 miles (whichever comes last), the IM nuts and bolts should not come loose anymore.

-Anyone swapping a KL03 for a KLZE intake manifold should seriously consider buying a VRTuner from www.rpmtuners.com , or buying a ZE VRIS chip (OBD-I only) from mikeseli or Noahfex (both on www.probetalk.com ). PM them. Both of these options will give you the proper VRIS opening points to realize the full potential of the KLZE IM. The KL03 VRIS points will give you some dips and flat spots in the power and torque curves.

Good luck with your installation.

11-11-03, 7:20	#5 (permalink)
Omaha95PGT Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Chesapeake, VA iTrader: (0)	Finishing touches and tips to the installation: -If you use the stock TB rubber elbow, you will probably be able to keep your cruise control. -While you have the IM off, you should consider changing all of the old rubber vac hoses with fresh rubber vac hoses or silicone vac hoses. You will need at least 10 feet but most likely up to 20 feet worth of hose (there are a lot of vac hoses). You should also consider changing the rear valve cover gasket and/or adding a rear motor mount insert. -I used a thin coat non-hardening gasket sealant on the IM to head spacer and for the TB to IM spacer. I also used copper spray-on gasket sealer on a different installation which seems to have worked well also. -consider changing or adding on to the clamps for all of the various hoses especially the fuel line hose that goes to the FPR and the coolant lines that goes to the coolant hard line under the TB and the lines running to the IAC coolant ports. Otherwise, you may experience coolant and fuel leaks -I would highly recommend that you use new copper washers for the banjo bolt that mounts to the fuel rail -Remove the 2 bolts that attach the hard fuel lines to the engine block. Otherwise, you may not be able to get the hard fuel line (the one with the banjo bolt) to line up with the fuel rail which has been elevated by the phenolic spacers. -If you swap over your fuel rail, be sure not to lose any of the 6 O-ring gasket/washers that seal the injector to IM mating points. -adjust your TPS and idle once you have everything installed. Follow the instructions in your manual or you can follow the instructions in the following link: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132803 (TPS Adjustment Procedure:) -I would recommend using the 03 hard vac and PCV piping underneath the IM since the ZE hard line piping seems to be missing some ports -Zip tie everything into neat bunches. Especially any vac lines behind the IM. There is a risk that some hoses my contact the rear exhaust manifold/header and melt -be sure to allow the car to idle for a while and check for fuel leaks -after about 1 day or 20 miles whichever comes first, recheck the torque on the IM nuts and bolts. They tend to loosen up initially after installation. Recheck 2-3 more times over the following few days then in a week to make sure everything is snug. After about 2 weeks or 500 miles (whichever comes last), the IM nuts and bolts should not come loose anymore. -Anyone swapping a KL03 for a KLZE intake manifold should seriously consider buying a VRTuner from www.rpmtuners.com , or buying a ZE VRIS chip (OBD-I only) from mikeseli or Noahfex (both on www.probetalk.com ). PM them. Both of these options will give you the proper VRIS opening points to realize the full potential of the KLZE IM. The KL03 VRIS points will give you some dips and flat spots in the power and torque curves. Good luck with your installation. Last edited by Ruubstr94Ls : 9-8-05 at 2:27.