MX6.com - View Single Post - helicoil head repair how-to

SleepCounter · 9-6-04, 3:41

That's not a stud and nut on the left, that's a bolt with the head broken off from the exhaust manifold on my engine.

I guess a previous tech/hack used bolts. I suspect a Mazda dealer, cuz the bolts had 12 mm heads, whereas most retail ones (and most hondas) use 13 mm heads on their 8 mm bolts. I purchased all new bolts and subsequently was told by 'Swat that Mazda originally built it using studs. Oh well. I was gonna build a new head anyway -- I'll put studs in that one (and this one when it comes off).
Sorry for the poor picture quality -- I was primarily using my Palm camera and it don't do a real great job in low light.

The bottom of the turbo was leaking oil from the oil return tube

so I fixed that with new gasket

upper cooling hose 2nd from left hardened and cracked (red arrow) and kinked (green arrow)

Previous repair used vacuum hose and omitted protective hose, causing roasted, brittle cooling hose.
While the turbo is off, it's a good time to check axial and radial play of the shaft.

All zeros for this guy. Amazing how good that dino stuff works when you change it once in a while.

9-6-04, 3:41	#4 (permalink)
SleepCounter Banned Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Calgary, AB, Canada iTrader: (0)	That's not a stud and nut on the left, that's a bolt with the head broken off from the exhaust manifold on my engine. I guess a previous tech/hack used bolts. I suspect a Mazda dealer, cuz the bolts had 12 mm heads, whereas most retail ones (and most hondas) use 13 mm heads on their 8 mm bolts. I purchased all new bolts and subsequently was told by 'Swat that Mazda originally built it using studs. Oh well. I was gonna build a new head anyway -- I'll put studs in that one (and this one when it comes off). Sorry for the poor picture quality -- I was primarily using my Palm camera and it don't do a real great job in low light. The bottom of the turbo was leaking oil from the oil return tube so I fixed that with new gasket upper cooling hose 2nd from left hardened and cracked (red arrow) and kinked (green arrow) Previous repair used vacuum hose and omitted protective hose, causing roasted, brittle cooling hose. While the turbo is off, it's a good time to check axial and radial play of the shaft. All zeros for this guy. Amazing how good that dino stuff works when you change it once in a while.