i have the biggest battery i could fit in our battery box and it helped it out by about 50% if i do the big 3 upgrade and buy maybe a 2 or 3 farad capacitor do you think it will solve the problem??
i cant give up my ac because i cant stand hot weather.
you think there would be any other way to mount up 2 stock alternators?
Unfortunately, you'll have to use a semi-generic alt, and modify it to fit. Stinger and several other companies make these Alts, Ohio Generator is another company, one of many. Again do your research, and contact the company to see if they'd offer a kit for your car. For an '89... I highly doubt they would, but you can modify the brackets to fit your car.
Expect to pay about $300 for a high output alt.... they're not cheap... .but you probably wont ever have to buy another one for this car, as they are just indestructable.
Da Whips
-'04 BMW Z4 Roadster, 3.0I, SMG 6speed w/triptronic, ///M sport suspension option (sold soon)
-'07 Triumph Daytona 675.
-1938 Chevy half ton hot rod project (in the works)
^ I used to have a 5,000 watt RMS setup in my last 2nd gen. over 153 db's baby. I could make the sheet metal on my car do waves. It was [fizzle]ing sweet. Dual 2500 watt RMS amps, 10 kilowatts of peak power. All powering one retardedly beefy 15" sub.
Stock battery and stock Alt, never needed to replace anything. No cap either, just 0/1 guage wiring and that was it.
I'd never ever turn it up without hearing protection though. Jesus you would make very short work of your ears with that sort of decibels.
Da Whips
-'04 BMW Z4 Roadster, 3.0I, SMG 6speed w/triptronic, ///M sport suspension option (sold soon)
-'07 Triumph Daytona 675.
-1938 Chevy half ton hot rod project (in the works)
HOLY [shizzle]. 153dB is well over the threshold of pain. For the nerds out there that is nearly 2000 W/m² of acoustical power, and the threshold of pain is 1W/m²!!!
I'm impressed that the MX-6's stock electrical didn't have trouble running that.
-- '93 LS -- HEI w/ Blaster2 -- CAI -- Eibachs -- FD's -- ZE Intake -- E-Specs --
-- '96 LS -- Bone Stock -- She lives!!! --
^ The thing is, that people dont realize, is that 5,000 watts (or whatever) of power is a surreal amount of electrical energy. Leave alone that the amps aren't 100% effecient (although class D amps are around the mid to high 90's), so the current draw is enormous. Its one thing to do 153db's for very short bursts of time (Which is what happened, it was a 5 second "burp" to reach that number) its another to do 153db's consistantly, meaning over a minute or two.
I'd kill the alt, and destroy the battery if I did that consistantly. I did it a grand total of 5times, and every one time it was only for a matter of seconds.
Most times I was just pushing about 200-300 watts RMS of everyday use. Thats all you really use most of the time, unless you're dead set on destroying your hearing. 200 or so watts of TRUE RMS power is a [fizzle] load... trust me. However most amps (and their manufacterers) are so mis-leading in their ratings: a so called "1100 watt Sony explod amp" is really only about 100-150 watts of true RMS power.
For everyday reasonable listening levels, the stock electrical system is perfectly adequet, and yes I am full aware of the lights dimming. If that bothers you or any person that much then sure feel free to upgrade, but its not that big of a deal. With my old '6, the lights barely dimmed at all with everyday use. It wasn't until I just cranked it and started pushing over 1k watts that it became a very noticable problem.
Again 1k watts into even an average sub is a lot of power, and you can do perminant hearing damage pushing that kind of juice without hearing protection.
Da Whips
-'04 BMW Z4 Roadster, 3.0I, SMG 6speed w/triptronic, ///M sport suspension option (sold soon)
-'07 Triumph Daytona 675.
-1938 Chevy half ton hot rod project (in the works)
i used to have this problem with my system, was a mtx 6001 running two infinity perfect 12.1 subs had a 1.2 farad cap. stock battery. i got some diming.
when i rebuilt my system.
i did big three,
got myself an optima red top battery
and put in a 2400 w RMS amp with two dual voice coil 12 in subs.
one 5 farad cap on the subs and a 1.2 farad cap on the speakers.
and even if i play it for long times at a fair level i dont get diming.
i personally beleive that the redtop battery helped the most. they r a good investment
Speaking about loud car audio, my friend has an 99 audi a4 and he has a jl 13w7 and a jl 1000/1 and 0 gauge wire running to it, its soo damn loud.
1990 Mazda MX6 Turbo, Automatic, no rust...finally...white with blue interior
1988 Mazda 626 Turbo 5 door, blew up, sitting in driveway don't know what to do with it yet
1990 Mazda 626, N/A, Automatic, Parts Car
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