having your subs in the very middle of the trunk, i always thought put out a very good sound, it evens it out through out the car and makes for apretty good set up.
I have a tape deck, and I use the tape hookup to a portable CD player....should I just get a cheap (like50-70 CD deck) and get an amp? or should I just stick with the tape hookup and spend that 50-70 bucks on an amp?
like is it worth it to change my tape deck to $150 plus CD deck (pioneer, SONY)
You can get a really good CD player for $150 to $200 these days, anything else (tape adaptor, etc) that costs less is a waste of money. More expensive decks, just depends on whether you'll actually use the extra features.
Car audio guy and resident domestic 4 banger advocate
when i put the system in my car, the head unit was the first to go, because i knew i wanted subs, i bought those last. needless to say, i bought a clarion apa-450 amp (4x50 rms 4x100 max) a set of pioneer 4 way 6x8 speakers, and a set of infinity 6x8s for the back. then came the subs. i got an amazing deal on those that i couldnt pass up. but in either case it was a power acoustik 2x600 (2x300 rms?) max amp with 2-12" rockford p-1s.. the only reason i did it in that order, was because i knew i would set money aside for the subs, and i didnt want to slack in other areas of the car. and does anyone know about how many square feet of dyna style mat it would take to cover my trunk area? and also does anyone know of a discount place (website) to buy it?
i am starting to look at subs and amps and i have a couple of questions. who still makes good subs and amps? and what kind of box works the best? and what is the difference between dual and single voice coils?
There is a sticky on sub boxes in this forum, might be worth a read to help you out, and single/dual voice coils are exactly what they sound like, a double has two coils powering a cone, while a single only has one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris6
She was amazed at how after 2 minutes I did more than 3 guys in 30 minutes.
^Actually dual and single voice coils do nothing more then offer flexibility in system setups. The number of coils has almost nothing to do with sound, since woofers produce mono sounds anyways; unidirectional sound waves.
Example: A single voice coil, 4ohm woofer can be run at - 4 ohm only! A dual voice coil, 4 ohm woofer can be run at 2 ohm or 8 ohm. The only way to get a single voice coil woofer to change impedance is to run them in series with another one.
The definition of "good" is in the eye of the beholder. Your best bet is to find something you like that meets the specifications of what you need and read reviews. General rule of thumb though, if it is sold in volume at a big box store such as Best Buy, it's likely crap.
-Matt-
SOLD - 1994 Mazda MX6 LS, Infiniti G35 HID conversion, 2.5" Magnaflow cat-back, 3" CAI, 16x8" FD RX7 wheels, LEDA Custom True Coilovers, shaved body and full repaint, Genuine Mazdaspeed Kit, '03 Protege rear caliper conversion, and much, much more...
^Actually dual and single voice coils do nothing more then offer flexibility in system setups. The number of coils has almost nothing to do with sound, since woofers produce mono sounds anyways; unidirectional sound waves.
Example: A single voice coil, 4ohm woofer can be run at - 4 ohm only! A dual voice coil, 4 ohm woofer can be run at 2 ohm or 8 ohm. The only way to get a single voice coil woofer to change impedance is to run them in series with another one.
The definition of "good" is in the eye of the beholder. Your best bet is to find something you like that meets the specifications of what you need and read reviews. General rule of thumb though, if it is sold in volume at a big box store such as Best Buy, it's likely crap.
Thank you for the clarification. I know very little about dual voice coil subs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris6
She was amazed at how after 2 minutes I did more than 3 guys in 30 minutes.
The definition of "good" is in the eye of the beholder. Your best bet is to find something you like that meets the specifications of what you need and read reviews. General rule of thumb though, if it is sold in volume at a big box store such as Best Buy, it's likely crap.
Totally agree! Best Buy, Circuit city, bought off places like that usually have crappy set ups for big amounts of money. Even if you like the stuff they sell at those stores you can still find them at a more price friendly local establishment. I can even bet if you hear somebody with a really nice system even on the road, get thier attention and theyd be happy to tell you where they got thier set up from! I know when people ask me I feel nice and proud so I have no problem takin a few seconds to refer a good company.
Personally my set up is from a small family owned car audio place in Phoenix. Theyre great they even sell you all the necessary wiring by the foot! So no need for expensive wiring kits.
Your best bet to a good system is in all simplicity, to ask around. Forums, car shows, mall parking lots...all good places for info!
In order, these are the audio components i have installed on my car. A JVC flipdown Mp3 compatible deck, then I installed all new wiring for a 2 amp setup. Used a California 200 watt amp to power two 6*7 125 watt Jensen mids in the rear, Switched out the stock tweets for some boston acoustics. Bought a lightning audio 700 watt amp to run 2 MTX 10" subs in a bandpass box.
Pretty crappy set up, but hey I was a noob! Then I upgraded the subs with 2 12" DVC Kicker CVR's, Pushed by a Pyle 1400 watt amp, supported with a 1200 watt Power Acoustik cap. I then used Jensen mids in all four speakers pushed by a 4 ch 600 watt Performance Teknique amp. . Apparently someone liked how it sounded so they stole the amp and head unit.
Currently I am running the cvr's pushed by a Mono Block 1200 watt Power Acoustik amp, and the Head unit is now an Mp3/WMA compatible Alpine. The performance teknique is still running the mids. Love my setup. Get complimented everywhere I go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingpin
i'm lost for words... your 6 looks absolutely amazing
I have to agree on the amp/sub first. I like many went the deck/speakers and was extremely disapointed in the minimal change in sound. As soon as I got my Amp's/Sub's in it I was shocked at the quality of sound/bass that it produced when the speakers were finally powered by the Amp instead of my deck.
I strongly recommend getting only 1 sub to start your system off tho. Most car's i've seen with 1 10" sound just fine.
If you're looking for advice just ask the technicians in the local audio shop. Most of them own systems themselves and don't like to sell crappy systems cause down the road they may have to install that system.
My current setup is in my old car:
Cavalier - 2 12" Infinity Perfects powered by a 800.1 MTX Mono, 4*6 & 6*9's powered by a 400.4 MTX 4 Channel, 1.2F Cap, Pioneer DEH-P5000UB.
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