Spark Plug FAQ - Page 2

**Cromax** · 12-18-04, 1:29

I use Iridiums 'cos they have a brighter spark ... and mine are still going strong after 30000kms (the plugs look like new).

Just take them out every 25000kms and check to make sure there isn't heaps of carbon buildup & check spacing ... if there's a little carbon around the edge, just clean it off with your spacer

Saso · 12-18-04, 17:39

I am using the Bosch Super 4 (FR 78 X) spark plugs for my 94 MX, approx $50 for 6 and I have noticed the engine is runninig much smoother. No one usually holds any stock but can be ordered from Sprints.

**Mr. MX6** · 4-9-05, 22:04

im not a big fan of bosch plugs.. (they crack) but what motor do you have.. the KLDE (stock Espec)

ih8v8s · 5-3-05, 1:12

For F2T Engine I advise to get the ZFR7FIX11 (Why) Because you need a higher heat range coz of the boost build up the more you boost your car the more heat it will produce therefore normal plugs that you buy at shops are only for a standard F2T engine. Make sure next time you buy sparkies ask for 7heat range autobarn has them.

**White90MX6** · 5-3-05, 17:30

Prepare to bend over for the price though.... My local stores charge $8 a plug plus $10 shipping and that NOT the iridiums. Thats Autobarn, Repco the lot. There is a cheaper plug, that you have to regap yourself that is about $15 for all 4... can't remember the code, but if someone wants them PM me and I'll dig it up.

Bjaw · 4-16-06, 8:49

Mine's a 88 Tx5 Turbo running on Premium unleaded boosting at 10psi. NGK catalogue stated ZFR6A-11 for my car (87-89 model), and ZFR6F-11 or ZFR6FIX-11 for 89-91 model. So the question is can my car being a 87-89 model uses ZFR6FIX-11 Iridium Spark Plugs?

thanks everyone...

Has anyone outhere tried it before?????

**White90MX6** · 6-3-06, 21:45

I have never tried, but I personally don't bother with Iridium anyway. Yes, this response is 2 months old.

**Cromax** · 6-3-06, 21:55

I still have the same iridiums in my car ... and theyv'e done over 60k without an issue ... and still have a lot of meat left.

I recommend them if you have a naturally aspirated car ... but not if you have a modified turbo ... as I've heard they snap under high boost.

suarve · 8-31-07, 10:26

would anyone happen to know the gap though??

**chief tool** · 8-31-07, 18:50

Yes I am using Iridiums too, I figure the less times you take the plug in and out of the head the better for the thread!
Plus they last much longer and dont need to be regapped.

I think Fredio54 touched on this on another thread somewhere...sparkplug gaps.
Most mazdas were meant to have a 0.7 /0.8mm gap, I noticed that post leaded fuel Oz models have 1.1mm (hence the 11 after the spark plug code) I believe that it allows a higher exposure of the spark to the mixture and therefore better burning and lower emissions, which is the reason they specify it for Oz as opposed to general export.
There is one downside to increasing the plug gap : it requires a higher voltage to cross the gap and puts a greater strain on the High Voltage systems.
The Iridium plug, due to its ultra thin point, has a lower voltage requirement (without going to far into electrical theory) the electric field is more concentrated at a thinner point. which means you can run the 1.1 gap with the voltages required to fire a regular plug at 0.7 (approx)

How does that help turbo cars...as cylinder pressures rise, soes does the voltage required to cross the spark plug gap, when you increase the boost over that of the factory, you literally may run out of "volts" to cross the gap and misfires occur.
You can install a coil that produces a higher voltage, or a CDI system which can create higher voltages with a stock coil...or...you can put plugs in that require lower voltages to fire...

No I am not a sales rep for NGK!

However I did have a problem with my ex's KJ laser with a BP 1.8 engine..
it was experiencing breakdown across the spark plug boots(symptom : a stutter of the engine at high throttle/low revs)...I googled it and found that there was an issue with the quality of the insulator material.
I regapped the plugs from 1.1 back to 0.8...the problem dissapeared for a while..but came back...probably as the regular plugs started to wear.
I installed iridiums...problem gone. I could have replaced the leads for Magnecor but never got round to it.

**chief tool** · 8-31-07, 18:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cromax

I still have the same iridiums in my car ... and theyv'e done over 60k without an issue ... and still have a lot of meat left.

I recommend them if you have a naturally aspirated car ... but not if you have a modified turbo ... as I've heard they snap under high boost.

Was the engine in detonation ?

I run them in my GD with 16psi...theyve been in the car since just after a bought it 4 years ago

**fredio54** · 9-8-07, 8:46

moral of the story, stock gaps ftw, fix your leads/coils/points/etc to prevent miss

good posts, "must spread" blah blah...

SckAndTwztd187 · 1-9-08, 22:22

is there anyone who can tell me how to remove the rear steering rack on a 1g mx6? Pictures would help as well. I think I've removed everything already but it wont come off still.

12-18-04, 1:29	#16 (permalink)
Cromax Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	I use Iridiums 'cos they have a brighter spark ... and mine are still going strong after 30000kms (the plugs look like new). Just take them out every 25000kms and check to make sure there isn't heaps of carbon buildup & check spacing ... if there's a little carbon around the edge, just clean it off with your spacer
	1993 Mazda MX6 4WS 2004 Mazda RX8 Luxury "If it was so, it might be; and it were so, it would be; but as it isn't, it ain't. That's logic." - Lewis Carrol

12-18-04, 17:39	#17 (permalink)
Saso Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: iTrader: (0)	I am using the Bosch Super 4 (FR 78 X) spark plugs for my 94 MX, approx $50 for 6 and I have noticed the engine is runninig much smoother. No one usually holds any stock but can be ordered from Sprints.
Saso Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: iTrader: (0)

4-9-05, 22:04	#18 (permalink)
Mr. MX6 Join Date: May 2001 Location: Perth, Australia Age: 36 iTrader: (0)	im not a big fan of bosch plugs.. (they crack) but what motor do you have.. the KLDE (stock Espec)
	People that think they know everything seriously annoy those of us that actually do.

5-3-05, 1:12	#19 (permalink)
ih8v8s Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Sparkies for F2T For F2T Engine I advise to get the ZFR7FIX11 (Why) Because you need a higher heat range coz of the boost build up the more you boost your car the more heat it will produce therefore normal plugs that you buy at shops are only for a standard F2T engine. Make sure next time you buy sparkies ask for 7heat range autobarn has them.

5-3-05, 17:30	#20 (permalink)
White90MX6 Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: iTrader: (0)	Prepare to bend over for the price though.... My local stores charge $8 a plug plus $10 shipping and that NOT the iridiums. Thats Autobarn, Repco the lot. There is a cheaper plug, that you have to regap yourself that is about $15 for all 4... can't remember the code, but if someone wants them PM me and I'll dig it up.
	150kW ATW... 12psi.

4-16-06, 8:49	#21 (permalink)
Bjaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Perth, Australia iTrader: (0)	Which one? Mine's a 88 Tx5 Turbo running on Premium unleaded boosting at 10psi. NGK catalogue stated ZFR6A-11 for my car (87-89 model), and ZFR6F-11 or ZFR6FIX-11 for 89-91 model. So the question is can my car being a 87-89 model uses ZFR6FIX-11 Iridium Spark Plugs? thanks everyone... Has anyone outhere tried it before?????

6-3-06, 21:45	#22 (permalink)
White90MX6 Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: iTrader: (0)	I have never tried, but I personally don't bother with Iridium anyway. Yes, this response is 2 months old.
	150kW ATW... 12psi.

6-3-06, 21:55	#23 (permalink)
Cromax Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	I still have the same iridiums in my car ... and theyv'e done over 60k without an issue ... and still have a lot of meat left. I recommend them if you have a naturally aspirated car ... but not if you have a modified turbo ... as I've heard they snap under high boost. Last edited by Cromax : 6-4-06 at 0:52.
	1993 Mazda MX6 4WS 2004 Mazda RX8 Luxury "If it was so, it might be; and it were so, it would be; but as it isn't, it ain't. That's logic." - Lewis Carrol

8-31-07, 10:26	#24 (permalink)
suarve Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: , Melbourne - W Suburbs iTrader: (0)	would anyone happen to know the gap though??

8-31-07, 18:50	#25 (permalink)
chief tool Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Sydney, Australia Age: 35 iTrader: (1)	Yes I am using Iridiums too, I figure the less times you take the plug in and out of the head the better for the thread! Plus they last much longer and dont need to be regapped. I think Fredio54 touched on this on another thread somewhere...sparkplug gaps. Most mazdas were meant to have a 0.7 /0.8mm gap, I noticed that post leaded fuel Oz models have 1.1mm (hence the 11 after the spark plug code) I believe that it allows a higher exposure of the spark to the mixture and therefore better burning and lower emissions, which is the reason they specify it for Oz as opposed to general export. There is one downside to increasing the plug gap : it requires a higher voltage to cross the gap and puts a greater strain on the High Voltage systems. The Iridium plug, due to its ultra thin point, has a lower voltage requirement (without going to far into electrical theory) the electric field is more concentrated at a thinner point. which means you can run the 1.1 gap with the voltages required to fire a regular plug at 0.7 (approx) How does that help turbo cars...as cylinder pressures rise, soes does the voltage required to cross the spark plug gap, when you increase the boost over that of the factory, you literally may run out of "volts" to cross the gap and misfires occur. You can install a coil that produces a higher voltage, or a CDI system which can create higher voltages with a stock coil...or...you can put plugs in that require lower voltages to fire... No I am not a sales rep for NGK! However I did have a problem with my ex's KJ laser with a BP 1.8 engine.. it was experiencing breakdown across the spark plug boots(symptom : a stutter of the engine at high throttle/low revs)...I googled it and found that there was an issue with the quality of the insulator material. I regapped the plugs from 1.1 back to 0.8...the problem dissapeared for a while..but came back...probably as the regular plugs started to wear. I installed iridiums...problem gone. I could have replaced the leads for Magnecor but never got round to it.

9-8-07, 8:46	#27 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	moral of the story, stock gaps ftw, fix your leads/coils/points/etc to prevent miss good posts, "must spread" blah blah...
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

1-9-08, 22:22	#28 (permalink)
SckAndTwztd187 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Winnipeg, Canada Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	4ws removal is there anyone who can tell me how to remove the rear steering rack on a 1g mx6? Pictures would help as well. I think I've removed everything already but it wont come off still.