MX6 2G FAQ Australian Specific

[ODIN]

Just setting this thread up to put FAQ's in about the E-spec 2nd Gen Mx6's. I will add some info later. If we have to we will periodically prune and condense this thread as well. Feel free to add any good info.

thx Chris

[ODIN]

Common faults on E-spec mx6's

Early models:

Distributor failure. Can get rebuilt ones from a place in melbourne from 400$ or So.

Caliper leakage.

The rear calipers can develop leaks. I had this problem myself. After having the calipers reconditioned, I had them leak again. Only good solution for this is to get calipers 2nd hand from a wreckers, off a 95-97 model. Cost me about 450$ for them. They are a direct fit replacement.

HLA noise/Friction gear.

The top of the engine can develop a loud ticking/tapping noise. This will probably be either the HLA's( a glorified lifter) or the Friction Gear. HLA's are 30$ or so each and theres 24 of them. Friction gears are about 50$. The labour is the killer for this problem. The noise could also be the Timing belt tensioner Arm

Common complaints on HLAs link: http://www.australdistributing.com.a...adjusters.html

VCG leaks

The valve cover gaskets can leak. To replace them the Intake manifold has to come off ( for the back on at least).

[ODIN]

Whiteline 18mm Rear SwayBar
Part num BMR71

The bar is not a direct fit. You need to either:
A) Trim the supplied bushes/ bash out the clips
or
B) Drill out the stock mazda bushes to 18mm ( thats what I had done)

Well worth the money though, if a pain to fit.

[ODIN]

Error Code reading for Australian mx6's

This is for OBD 1 cars. OBD2 cars ie late 95 to 97 cars are more difficult :
OBD-II regulations state that malfunction codes cannot be extracted by simply shorting a pin somewhere and watching the Check Engine Lamp (CEL). Instead, the system requires you to either purchase a scan tool to read the serial data and malfunction codes or to take the car to a dealership and have them do it.

From Mr Mx6

Items required:

• 6" of cable, insulated, preferably solid core of 2.5mm^2
• A standard LED (Light Emitting Diode) & 1k-ohm resistor (soldered to the cathode/-ve of the LED)or a standard "12V LED"

Method

1. Open the hood/bonnet and locate the black oblong diagnostic connector behind the battery with "DIAGNOSTIC" printed in raised type on the top.

2. Opening this connector, inside the lid is a schematic of the connections. It is possible to scope O2 sensors and various other systems from here but we will be limited to code reading.
Locate the terminals "TEN" & "GND", notice there is a "B+" terminal nearby which is a 30A +12V feed from the battery and no loose strands of wire must touch it.

3. Ensure the ignition is off, the handbrake is applied and the gearbox is in Neutral or Park.

4. Take a piece of Insulated wire, approximately 2.5mm^2, and strip off 1/4"/0.5cm of insulation from each end. Form the wire into a loop about the middle to create a jumper-wire. Solid wire is preferred.

5. Connect this jumper-wire across the connections labled "GND" & "TEN". Ensure no other connectors are connected, and no strands are wandering about if stranded wire is used.

6. Connect the Anode/+ve of the LED+Resistor or 12V-LED to the B+ terminal, and the free resistor end (Cathode/-ve) to the FEN terminal. Ensure that nothing else is connected or accidentally connected as B+ is a 30A 12V supply.

NB if you have a North American model car, you dont need the led, Just do the following : The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way) and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together.

7. Turn the ignition to ON but do not start the car, watch the LED as it flashes out any codes. If it does not flash confirm the connections, if still not flash then you have no codes stored.

8. Codes are flashed out according to the lowest code first, and repeated after a pause of 4 seconds. The format is akin to morse code, in that a short flashes represent 1s and longer flashes 10s.
Thus flashes of --- --- - - - - would represent a code of 24 for the (rear) oxygen sensor. Oxygen sensor failures are the most common cause of CELs.

9. To clear codes, disconnect the negative battery terminal for 2 minutes with a door left open or apply the brakes.

10. Turn the Ignition to OFF before removing the jumper wire, and ensure when removing the jumper wire no other connections are touched.

11. If more than one code is present, it can be worth clearing all codes and then checking them again to see which re-occur. It is not uncommon for sporadic codes to appear under certain fault conditions - so requiring them to come back as confirmation is strongly advised.

Some of the more common codes

01 Code Circuit Diagnosed Memorized?
02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor Yes
03 'G' camshaft position sensor Yes
04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor Yes
05 Knock sensor Yes
08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF) Yes
09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS) Yes
10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT) Yes
12 Throttle position sensor (TPS) Yes
14 Barometric pressure sensor Yes
15 LHO2S inactivation error Yes
16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Yes
17 LHO2S inversion error Yes
23 RHO2S inactivation error Yes
24 RHO2S inversion error Yes
25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid Yes
26 Canister purge solenoid No
28 EGR vacuum solenoid No
29 EGR vent solenoid No
34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid No
41 VRIS #1 solenoid No
46 VRIS #2 solenoid No
67 LFAN relay (1993 only) No
69 ECTF sensor (1993 only) Yes

OBD-2 codes

P0100,P0102,P0103- Mass Airflow(MAF) sensor or circuit fault
P0110,P0112,P0113- Inlet Air Temperature(IAT) sensor or circuit fault
P0115,P0117,P0118- Engine Coolant Temp.(ECT) sensor or circuit fault
P0120,P0122,P0123- Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) or circuit fault
P0125- Excessive time to enter closed loop
P0130,P0131,P0150- Heated 02 sensor or circuit fault
P0133,P0134,P0140- Heated 02 sensor slow response
P0154,P0160- Heated 02 sensor slow response
P0135,P0141, P0155- Heated 02 sensor heater or circuit fault
P0170,P0171- fuel system too lean
P0172,P0173- fuel system too rich
P0230, P0231, P0232- fuel pump circuit fault
P0300- Random misfire detected
P0301- Cylinder number 1 misfire detected
P0302- Cylinder number 2 misfire detected
P0303- Cylinder number 3 misfire detected
P0304- Cylinder number 4 misfire detected
P0305- Cylinder number 5 misfire detected
P0306- Cylinder number 6 misfire detected
P0320- Ignition input circuit fault
P0335- Crankshaft position sensor or circuit fault
P0340- Camshaft position sensor or circuit fault
P0400- EGR flow fault
P0420,P0430- Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
P0440- EVAP system fault
P0443- EVAP purge solenoid or circuit fault
P0500, P0503- Vehicle Speed Sensor(VSS) or circuit fault
P0505- Idle Air Control(IAC) valve system fault
P0510- Idle Switch fault
P0552,P0553- Power Steering Pressure(PSP) switch or circuit fault
P0603- ECM Keep Alive Memory test error
P0605- ECM Read Only Memory test error
P0703- Brake On/Off(BOO) switch or circuit fault
P0704- Clutch pedal position switch or circuit fault
P0705- Transmission range sensor or circuit fault
P0710 through P0760- Electronic transmission control system fault

[ODIN]

MX6 Purchase inspection

If your interested in purchasing a MX6, there is a few things to check first before handing over the money

Check the if the car is stolen, money owing.
This can be done by checking with REVS . You will need VIN, Engine and Rego number of the car. You can purchase a certificate costing $10 to protect you. Depending on which state your in you may need to use another authority

Body and paint work.
Non metallic paint is known to fade on the MX6. Red seems to be the one that is most noticeable. Also check the clear coat for cracks. The body should be straight and no visible signs of damage. If there has been body work done, make sure that repairs are in A1 condition.

Mechanical
On models between 91-94 (GE1), there is some known problems. These problems were fixed on GE2 models

Check the distributor if it has been replaced or repaired. distributor failures happen at around 90,000km. A replacement unit cost around $600.
Rear brake callipers are known to leak and seize. check them for any leaks. A rebuild kit is around $150.

On 4WS models check the rear steering rack. Check the operation by turning the steering wheel in both direction. Look under the car at the rear steering rack and examine the unit for sign of damage or leaks. Repairs for the rear steering rack can cost from $1000 to $3000.

Check the engine for oil leaks. Locations of leak areas are, top valve cover, spark plug wells, oil sump and oil filter.

Check general condition of engine. It should rev freely and smoothly to 7000rpm. It should be quiet and free from ticking noises. Constant ticking from the engine can either be worn HLA or bad oil. Cold start ticking is usually a sign of poor quality of oil used.

Manual gearbox should change smoothly. It should not crunch . It is also known that you cannot change to 1st gear unless the car is stopped or under 10km/h. Reverse gear can also be tricky to engage. Crunching gears is a sign of worn synchros or bad gearbox oil. The clutch usually will last to around 150,000km. If it is above or around that figure check if the clutch has been replaced. Cost is around $1000 for a fitted one.

Automatic gearbox should also change smoothing. Check the operation of all gears by selecting them manually. Rough gear box changing is caused by a worn part within the box. Repairs can be costly.

Interior
All electrical components should be tested inside such as operation of stereo, lights, power windows and mirrors
Sunroof is a common problem with the MX6. Main problems with failure to popup automatically. Check the sunroof tracks for dirt and grime. Repairs can be around $1000

There are 3 type of seat fabrics, cloth/velour, Leather (Electric) and Perforated leather. Check the condition of the fabric

Wind noise is a known problems. This is caused by worn rubber seals around the window. The MX6 does not have much sound proofing and loud road noise is normally. Rattles and squeak sounds is also common with the MX6 interior.

Logs and History
The best way to check check the history of the car is by checking the log book for maintenance and repair history

Which year is the best one to buy?
Any GE2 models will give you less trouble in the future. A 95 model seems to be the pick since it has all the major problems fixed and can be modded easily since it uses OBD1. If you can find a 1995 Luxury model in good condition, that would be the way to go.

MX6 Purchase inspection REVS

[Jasonius]

Hey Gang,

I've got a consistent failure on the TPS sensor of my 93 mx6 - repeated codes after the ecu is reset.

Can ye wise ones please let me know:

1/. Whether this would be the reason for my car running rich and with variable power output (not due to vris)
2/. Whether these can be purchased anywhere apart from mazda ($450!!!)
3/. Whether they are easy to replace

Cheers,

Jasonius

[Mr. MX6]

If it is not I the correct position it will return an error code , not only if it is faulty.. have a crack at this b4 shelling out on a new one..

Insert a jumper pin between the ten and gnd pins. turn on the ignition (don’t start) loosen the tps bolts rotate it until the cooling fan comes on (or alternatively till it goes off) what you are looking for is the point that the fan goes off at .. when you find it tighten the tps bolts. Switch off the keys, remove the jumper ..


Or if you want to do it by the book, and set every thing……..


How to set idle/TPS and timing on the V6

Start the car, let it warm up,

You NEED a timing light, Without the timing light none of this will work.

Insert a jumper pin between the ten and gnd pins. Hook up the timing light to the battery for power and hook up the signal to the #1 wire location on the disty(make sure all 6 plugs will still get full spark). Loosen the two 12 mm bolts on the disty so it can rotate(not too loose). Now, with the jumper pin inserted, start the car, if it dies, then open the idle air screw on the top of the tb a couple turns.

Make sure the car is warmed up, NO accessories or fans or anything is on, and if the idle is like 1500 then close the idle air screw a little, it should be open 2-3 full turns. Now, move the power steering hoses and wires out of the way, point the flashing timing light at the crank pulley, and watch the small tab on it illuminate and reference it's location to the small timing marks on the plastic tab that sticks out over it. Rotate the disty until the notch on the crank pulley is exactly in line with the "10" on the plastic timing mark indicator(this is 10 degrees before top dead center). Now when it's at 10, tighten the disty down carefully so as not to move it. Double check for 10 deg. btdc. Now adjust the idle air screw until your idle sits right at 650 rpms (+/-25). Turn off the car, remove the jumper pin.

Do not adjust the idle air screw unless the car is running with the ten/gnd pins jumped!!!!!

Now, get your voltmeter. Set it to ohms. Touch the two terminals on the idle air bypass control valve(black part on bottom of tb). The resistance should be 10.2-12.3 ohms. If so, then that is ok. Unplug the TPS, with the voltmeter still on ohms (or continuity check mode), touch the two lowest pins with the terminals of the voltmeter. There should be continuity. If not, loosen the two screws holding it so you can just rotate it, and rotate until you get continuity. Next, take a .006"(.15mm) feeler gauge, and put it between the throttle stop screw and the throttle linkage(back/top of the TB) Before doing that, make sure that the stop screw that the linkage hits JUST barely touches it at closed throttle.(2.5mm allen key wrench for it). Now with the feeler gauge inserted, there should still be continuity, if not, rotate until there is. Next, switch to a .020"(.50mm) feeler gauge in, there should not be continuity, if so, redo the previous step until it is correct.
Plug the sensor back in, turn the key to the on position with a paper clip jumping the ten and gnd pins.Now measure volts, and put the black from the voltmeter on the neg. terminal of the battery, and tap into the yellow(2nd wire down from top of tps harness). Voltage should be between .1 and 1.1 at closed throttle, but I found .5 to be perfect. At wot it should be 3.6-4 volts(check by pressing gas pedal to ensure it opens fully).
Now start the car, your idle will be perfect.

[Jasonius]

Holy [shizzle].. thats a hell of a write up PK! Thanks for that - I'll try the two options.

Although:

1/. I'll have to pick up a timing light (mine got dropped)
2/. I'll have to pick up another multimeter... (mine got broke)
3/. I'll have to not lend my stuff to clutzy friends

Will advise results.

I'm assuming the ecu needs to be reset after the process?

Cheers,

Jase

[Mr. MX6]

yea after you set it correctly you would want to clear the memory of the error so you will know if it is still present or fixed..
if you don’t have the tools just do the shot one using the fan … and that should/could let you know if the tps is stuffed (IE if that clears the error)

[Jasonius]

Hi All,

Thought I'd throw in a howto replace your gearstick bushes.

Why?

If there is movement in your gearstick when in gear (i.e you can wobble the gear level from side to side when it is in a gear position) then you probably need to replace the gear stick bushes.

In mine there was a huge amount of movement - as I found out, this is due to the fact that my gear lever had no bushes whatsoever! I had approx 2cm movement when in gear.

how to get started?

Call up mazda and organise to purchase some gearstick bushes. Quote the model number of your car, and they'll order some of these:



Note the price difference. Total cost to me of ~$20

When you get the parts, they look like this:



and this:



However when you put the two different part numbers together, you can see there is no difference between them:





The reason for the two parts, is that there are 2 linkage points. one right under your gearstick under the cabin (generally just behind the cat:



And one at the gearbox end:



So if you want to save yourself some money, buy the cheaper parts seeing as they're exactly the same!

What you'll need

This:



And this:



And these:

Socket set
Two adjustable wrenches (small)
Flathead screwdriver
Some safety glasses if you have them (not essential for the job, but handy for your eyes)

How to do it!

1/. Apply handbrake and chock wheels, and raise the front of the car - preferrably with ramps, better with a grease pit, but stands will do.

2/. Put the gearstick in 4th gear (this moves the linkage around and makes it a little easier to get to).

Have a swig of beer.

3/. Locate the heatshield above the exhaust, and undo the four bolts supporting it



4/. Once its off, it will rest on the exhaust (it doesn't weigh much) and you can slide it towards the rear of the car to expose the gearstick end linkage.



Here is where the safety glasses are really handy, as dirt and rocks etc get trapped above the heatshield, and if you're working under the car, they get trapped in your eyeballs..

5/. Now you can see the gearstick end of the linkage:



6/. Grab your two adjustable wrenches (unfortunately a socket set won't fit up in there) and undo the nut and washer on one side of the linkage. At this point dirt and stuff will fall out of the linkage into your eyes again. Yay.

7/. Have a swig of beer, cleanse eyes.

8/. Grab your screwdriver and use it to wriggle the bolt from the linkage - mine was wedged in reasonably tightly. If you still have remains of the old bushes I imagine that the screwdriver will assist in getting rid of these as well.

9/. Now you can free up the linkage:



10/. Make sure you grab the split washer as well, and you should have this:



11/. Now slide the bushes into the end of the gearstick linkage:




12/. Reverse the above procedure - slide the bolt thru the linkage, put the washer on and tighten the nut.

13/. At this stage, have another swig of beer, and test the gearstick to see how tight it is. For me this was perfect (the front bushes in my car are in good nick), so I left it at that. Its amazing the difference it has made - its like having a new gearbox.

If you were to continue on and replace the front bushes, you would need to undo the six bolts on the suspension cross arm:




And repeat the process, however I had a quick go at these bolts, and successfully managed to knock myself in the head with my wrench, and not budge the bolts at all.

14/. Go inside and wash your hands:




15/. And dress your wounds:



16/. Finish your beer and go for a hoon.

Hope this helps out there, and that caleb can keep the pix up for awhile.

Out of interest, seeing as I didn't use the other two bushes, I have a set of these floating around that someone could buy from me if they want to do the above and have a nice tight box.

Cheers,

Jasonius.

[ODIN]

Mine has failed. Drivers side, drivers window.

Well I just found out that mazda wants 350$ for the whole switch assembly, so it will be a DIY fix for me. Will post pics when I'm done though.

chris

[Minstrel]

Thanks Jasonius, don't need new bushes but had a b$#@&* good laugh !!!!

[Morfeeyus]

Hi Guys

Just wanted to say, I got new clear side indicators, from oziparts.com.au, location is hume hwy campbellfield for those that are also looking.

The company is actually SSS parts just down from Somerton rd, on your left heading into Melbourne. They don't specifically say, but the side indicators are the same for 626 in same year, and you may not find them if you specifically look for mx6.

anyways, it rocks, I love the look!

[ausmx6er]

hi guys anyone got any suggestions for boosting the 6 in the aus context in terms of mods and prices

[Turk]

Originally Posted by ausmx6er

hi guys anyone got any suggestions for boosting the 6 in the aus context in terms of mods and prices

Better off posting this in the main Aussie section. It will cost you at least $3000AU to $5000 depending if you do it yourself or not and where you get parts from. If you are still interested, I am doing a write up on what you need in about 4 weeks.

Still $3-5k and you are looking at about 180kwatw at least, I think it is a worthwhile investment.