RH's J-spec wagon conversion (help Fe3 techs)

[rodhog]

Well it's going to start as soon as I get a motor.

First problem is I need a motor at min with partial loom. My conversion workshop has said the Standalone unit to be used is new on the market unit with well massive ability - like a motec, as much ability resoloution etc. can't go into don't much yet but will let you know.
but best thing is if part of the loom comes with the enigne EG sensor conectors etc I think it will as most do but here are my thoughts if no so.

Will the F2 loom have most of the plugs on it ?
Will F2T loom fair better to having the plugs ?

I am going to do water pumnp - timming belt and rear main seal and new clutch

For the belt pump and seal - anyone got any part numbers of KIA or mazda or know of the aftermarket parts etc. just so it saves me searching.
Also for clutch I think a stock F2 will do but if anyone thinks other wise let me know. It's N/A all the way.

On that remarke anyone know of extractors ?

Also anyone got stock intake rubber and airflow meter will to buy and pay oh and my NZ cusins if you can ship ROD Will pay


PS to all QLD FANS (LOL) I'm coming in october 27th to 29th might have to have either friday night or Sunday night meet up, Don't worry I'll have a car - hire car LOL CAM I'm coming to learn all I can on FE DOHC. you might be able to convince me to turbo mine, LOL

[cam22t]

You mostly need the F2/F2T injector loom.

Off that you have the TPS, Idle Speed Controller and injector connections. (plus the closed throttle switch too).

With using that, the wiring will look more factory.

You will need to find a Dissy connector. VL commodore and maybe BP 1.8


I have one section of my loom going to the injector rail and that does the throttle body also.

Then i have another branch going off towards the dissy. That feed does the dissy plug, air temp, water temp and the wide band O2.

The my last branch is for the 4 coil ignitor. Which the hooks up to the coils and the relays for the coils.

So as long as you have the injector loom with the TB stuff, then that will be plenty to get the job done.

I am sending the dissy sync and trigger signals to the stock computer still, so that the air con can self regulate. I also have a input connected to the air con clutch so that it can get to ecu to idle up when the air con is on.

As for outputs on the ecu.
I am controlling the ISC, both fuel pumps and another feed as a tacho output, going to my AVCR so that it can get a tacho reading.

The is alot of wiring in my car, but it had to be done and i am going to fit an 8860 this weekend to a FE3 Turbo TX5.
Its going to be the same wiring as mine, so i should be able to wire it up in a very neat manner, as mine was work in progress and kept on growing.

Rod, pm me your number so that i can give you a call.

[cam22t]

Here is a link to a thread about my older ecu. The EMS Dualsport.

http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ele...made-easy.html (Going standalone made easy...)

That link shows you all the connections that i had.


You will notice that the loom is one long length.

I had it fanned out more at the ends this time around with the EMS 8860.
Both times, i had the ECU under the drivers seat, so thats why the loom is so long also.

[roth251]

Quick cut and paste.. may have missed some.. here's what I got from KIA....

Water Pump Set0K01C-1501YA Oil Pump21310-3X000Oil Strainer Assembly (Pick up Tube) Gasket0FES1-14248 Oil Strainer Assembly (Pick up Tube)0K011-14240A Oil Level Tube0K01A-10440D Sealing Cap (Freeze Plug) (x2)K9930-62500 Sealing Cap (Freeze Plug) (x2)K9930-63000 Sealing Cap (Freeze Plug) (x2)K9930-63500 Sealing Cap (Freeze Plug) (x4)K9930-64000 Pin Tubular (Head Bolt Pin) (x2)00221-10108 Oil Jet Assembly - 1 & 3 (x2)0FEHH-10570A Oil Jet Assembly - 2 & 4 (x2)0FE3N-10580 Oil Jet Valve Assembly (x4)0SE01-10730A Rear Main Oil Seal0K011-11312 Timing Belt0K954-12205 Timing Belt Tensioner0K973-12700A Timing Belt Tensioner Spring0FE3N-12711A Timing Belt Idler Pulley0K955-12730A Camshaft Oil Seal0K013-10602 Camshaft Oil Seal (x2)0K013-10602
HLA's (x16)0K01G-12101A Valve Stem Seals (x16)0KL02-10155 Valve Cover Gasket0K955-10235B Intake Keepers (x16)0K954-12114

[rodhog]

Okay guys thanks alot for all that info.

Well I'll update you - I got off my large behind and Bought a motor. well I was in the area so I drove into SSS automotive had a look got excited and bought it.
It's look almost idential to roth251 engine. Yet it's auto one. But I checked that it had what I was told I need and that was ll all the plug which it had.

As I'm not doing much of any of the work, but I'm triyng to help out as much as I can to get it all done ASAP. my plan or hope is to have it by end of september running. so I can then get the car into panel beaters by mid october and then well it should be done.

If I can get mosot the major bits ASAP it should be apples.

One thing I have to search I guess to find it but I can't remember if I count the right number of holes on the flex plate but I had funny feeling it was 6 and something in my mind said this is not right ?
as I p0lan ot use either my F2 or F2T which ever one is easier to atatch onto it.
Roth251 how many on yours ?

in alot of ways I wish I had enough time and space to do it myself. but I'm very very squeezed for both so it's no no.

Oh one more thing did the Fe ever use knock sensor at all?

[cam22t]

Yes the FE has a knock sensor.

Its the KIA block that has the 8 bolt crank, so as long as you have a 6 bolt crank in the FE, then all is good.
You also need to use the correct backing plate. If you use the turbo gearbox, then you need the rear tin plate off the back of a F2T motor to line up the starter and to seal up the bell housing.