My GV1124

[jesiotrot]

Originally Posted by mazdaspeedF2

fe3 in the wagon would be fun as......

Yes it would be, but try telling scott that.....he is a die hard F2 fan!

[mazdaspeedF2]

haha thats good too!!!! i guess its a personal taste thing, that is what its all about.....

[rodhog]

ah none of you know what F2 means your all weak.

FE is nice better boosted but then again nothingl ike pure torqeu except for the downsides

The Mr2 bos looks huge copared to a g-series box but compared to H - it's on par.

yes it is slighlty better in desgin IMO. but alos note that is' a bit like early MPs3 box too.
the latter using 3 shafts for 6th gear placement.

[SABBAi]

Originally Posted by jesiotrot

Yes it would be, but try telling scott that.....he is a die hard F2 fan!

I was considering the FE3 yesterday..... After driving The SP20 for 3 days, if the FE3 is anything like the late model non dizzy FS, it's got to be a good thing. Might go and take a look down at Jolly Rogers to see if the engine is there still.

[cam22t]

Originally Posted by SABBAi

I was considering the FE3 yesterday..... After driving The SP20 for 3 days, if the FE3 is anything like the late model non dizzy FS, it's got to be a good thing. Might go and take a look down at Jolly Rogers to see if the engine is there still.

Its a good thing.

[SABBAi]

Ok Craig.... I thought I'd get some sort of "you need FE3 now" from you

[cam22t]

Even if you needed pistons for that wrecker motor, i have a new set of 10-1's with rings that you can have. Otherwise i am going to put them into my spare lower comp FE and deck the head to get it up to 11-1.

From memory, the motor at the Jolly is a 10-1. Very strong motor all round. Crank brace etc.
If you need to lower the compression, ACL have a Decomp shim on there books.
I got them to make me one up a few years ago and we have had that in a stock 10-1 motor for the last three years and its good for a reliable 250whp on a stock internals.

Either way, let me know if you need anything.

[SABBAi]

Thanks Craig. I'll take a drive down there this morning.

[rodhog]

I'll say this having driven the FE DOHC wagon

it's good thing.
boosted there better again.

- I personally don't regreat not using the FE in the mx-6

and very happy with the Fe N/A in the wagon.

If I had to only have one car it would be the wagon with FE Turbo.

but I also know that it's a real strong base.

compared to the FS - LOL it's like whole lot better.

I put the FS in the range of average

to me FE DOHC is closer to a 2JZ-GE. in all it's power deliver and performance.

smooth - flat torque across the range and with the right ratios not anywhere it won't pull from.

If you are going all out and it does not worry you about originality - like keeping some factory look setup etc blah - reason Ikept the F2T

Go the FE - you won't regreat it.

this is coming from a person who love Low end torque.

remeber you can always stroke it LOL

[SABBAi]

Ok, after much thought, I've decided to stick with the F2. mainly due to costs, as I had 95% of the bits required to F2T the wagon.

So, the wagon is now home to an rebuilt F2 (20 thou over). This includes a ported and rebuilt head, HD clutch, rebuilt turbo box, T25G turbo atached to an FE8 manifold (pics to come later), turbotech boost controller, Supra intercooler with 2" piping, SSQV BOV, Woo's personal tune chip, etc...

It still needs a few things to be sorted. Some wiring needs to be sorted between the engine loom and the chassis loom, but it shouldn't be too hard. It needs the interior to be peiced back together as well as fluids added, but it's close to being limped to the exhaust shop for a 2.5" system.

enough babble, here are some progress shots.

THe difference between the removed auto pedal box and the manual pedal box. Note the nice clean looking one, is not the one being used



The brake pedal switch was different to suit the different wiring in the GV.





Who can spot the difference between the early model GD and late model GV steering column? besides the airbag control unit and different looming.

Motor just after it was lowered into the engine bay.




Some pics of the FE8 manifold fitted. There has been discussion that there is significant difference between the FE8 and the F2 manifolds in terms of fitment. The head flange is the same with the internal porting being different. the angle that the turbo flange is on is also different. Instead of being angled away from the dizzy as on the F2's it is parallel with the head flange. The internal port size is slightly smaller at the head, and merges from 4 - 2 -1, unlike the 4 - 1 design of the F2. after it merges into 2, the internal diameter increases.

Another thing to note is that it has FE3G stamped into it.

The other difference is the location of the EGR turbo. it is further away from the head than the F2 and uses a different EGR tube. Neither the FE8 nor the F2T tube will fit when using the 12V head, so I cut it and neatly flattened the end so it looked like it was there, but in fact it's not connected at all. What about the EGR valve? wont it suck in unmetered air? Yep, sure will. But I blocked it off and left it in place.



The old supra intercooler and piping I had fitted to my old red TX5 (RIP), fitted fairly well, considering I made it to fit the VJ11 and the old air research T3. The FE8 manifold and T25 combo, brought the turbo outlet closer to the radiator, but it still managed to fit.....just.



After some rough trimming of the radiator panel, the piping fits neatly. I sprayed the edges with some black paint and then went around it with some electrical conduit, leaving a neat non-finger-cutting finish.



This is one of the electrical issues faced when using a GD1021 engine loom in a GV1124. The looms dont match with plugs, and there is excess wires, especially when converting from Auto to manual. This was easily fixed by the old cut and shut method.



This was how the engine bay was looking 2 nights ago, before my silicone joiners and BOV arrived.



Further progress was made tonight, with the clutch master fitted and all the little fiddly items tidied up. More progress pics to come shortly.

[chief tool]

Nice work....

You might want to consider a dump pipe heat shield to protect your a/c compressor.

I throw my a/c compressor away every two years on my turbo GC, I am using a GT2560BB with a similar style of dump pipe...I find that the pipe is too close to the back of the compressor and causes heating of the compressor and damages the seals...I used heat wrap tape, but it doesnt seem to be enough.
I was even thinking about going to the F2t manifold because of the tilt, in order to gain a few extra mm's......I never realised tho that the internal design is different.
I havent got a good photo of the clearance atm...but I can post one up soon..

[SABBAi]

Thanks mate. The clearance to the A/C compressor is greater than than the pictures suggest. My R33 setup off my black car is closer, and that has been fine for 12 months. It's not too much of a concern to me, as this car will not be having the dump pipe glowing red hot day in, day out. It is more of a 'get me to work and to customers sites' kind of car. I just like to have fun along the way

The turbo itself I'm not excactly sure what it is. I know it's from a Shilvia of some descript, and it's as I bought it. I'm assuming by looking at it that it is a T25G, as it has a .48 comp cover and .64 exhaust housing. The oil inlet has been made up using some brass tubing braised onto a fitting to suit the turbo and a cut up VJ8 fitting. It works well for what it is as it alows you to use a stock oil feed line. The water lines are standard garret fittings with water lines attached. The oil return line I had attached originally had less than 20mm of material for the oil return line to attach to. But luckily enough, the internal oil drain size was the same as the stock VJ11 item. I basically got to the ends of the stock fitting with an angle grinder to make slots instead of holes and used some RTV red and bolted it on. Fitted well. I just needed to use a longer piece of oil return line to get it to the stock return fitting in the block. Like it was meant to be. The pressure outlet side has had a round outlet welded to the top to suit a 2" silicone joiner, perfect again. The dump pipe is pretty rough, but it works.

[SABBAi]

Alright it's alive!!! It runs and moves under it's own power. Bled the clutch line tonight, filled it with fluids and wired in the ECU. It all seemed to have worked quite well. It wouldn't start first up, no tacho movement during cranking, etc. Found that the plug to the chassis loom was not connected.

Afterwards the idle was not happy with all the leads needing to be replaced. So this was done and it run nicely considering. Although, the engine is out of a GD1022, with an inlet manifold and loom, etc from a GD1021 with the GV1124 top half. So it's a bitsa. I couldn't get the base timing set correctly, due to lack of adjustment. At full advance it was only getting 8deg btdc. Looks like I have some fine tuning to do.

[jesiotrot]

Link to video of it running -

YouTube - Another Mazda 626 Turbo wagon

[chief tool]

Here is a photo of the clearance between the dump pipe and the a/c on my GC



and its done it again....the compressor is rooted...

it reached the point that I bought my own "blacklight" for spotting a/c leaks with the dye, so I know whethere to source a new compressor or whether its something else!
I dont think I will fix it this time as I am "hoping" to have the FE3 in by next summer....but thats what I said two summers ago!

The wagon is looking good tho, that turbo should be ideal for the motor as daily driver..I like the characteristics of my 2560...I cant remember the specs but its got a sylvia style compressor housing mated to a std 2560 BB core and turbine....GCG made it up out of some "left overs" (new) 7 years ago, spools nice and early..not much good for anything over 15psi...I only run it at 13 as its the limit of the fuel system as it is at present....It'd make an ideal turbo on the F2 for use under 15psi