Problem with Central Locking

[1989MX6]

I'm having a problem with my central locking. Via the key and alarm fob only the driver's door locks/unlocks. This problem started last week but for months I've noticed the passenger-side lock button has only been going down about half way. I sprayed the mechanism with WD40 a couple of months ago, but didn't notice much difference.

I've done a search in the forum and uncovered the following from RodHog:

"Now why this might not be working now.

It's quite common for two things to occur.

1st is the small metal spring which activates the small micro switch in the door lock for the central locking has been used so often it's bent slightly the wrong way and no longer activates the switch - easy to fix bend the metal spring up -. NOTE * be careful no to break it.

2nd reason this spring metal is broken off. if this is the case, well if you use a 4 wire /5 wire solenoid or Command solenoid use the two pass on wires or other door activators add it to them wires and it should do the job with out requireing a new door lock as it's the only way to get the switch."

Does anyone have any pics, or additional info? I'd like to have a go at this on my flex day tomorrow - it's the only chance I'll have for the next couple of weeks to look at it.

Thanks guys.

[rodhog]

it's the 2nd switch.

as you already have anothe Door actuator added into the door. Hopefully it's 4 way version you can link up the extra two wires to activate the rest. If the mirco switch is gone.

I don't have pis as Both cars are indisposeded of.

but the switch is located right behind the door lock in the door.

So remove your inner trim panel.

two screws behind the handle - bottom end map pocket screw - door levler screw and door handle pocket screw and pop it off.

remove the plastic enough.

Look for the smallest of about 16 gauge wire or even 18 guage - goign ot the door lock itself. on the side.

You should be able to see the micro switch.

I've been looking into replacment switchs myself.

I haven't updated it but

OLD school 2 button JOYSTICKS - we are talking backin the day type - Pentium PRE days from days of XT's AT's 386's and 486's.
most had long metal tabs on the micro switch that can be adopted.

but as most people have had to add the extra door actuator lock to have remote central locking and have the drivers door lock.

It just depends if it's a primary or a slave. if it's primary it will have two extra out puts that can be used to activate the rest of the doors.

If not you head to JAycar - as disksniff haven't been doing much of it. You buy one single unit and re-place the current one. very simple and effective.


If anyone is wondering if oyu can reatch the damaged metal spring on the switch. Yes it can be tig welded , but size and heat play a role. I haven't tryed it but doubt the switch would work too well afterwards.

[1989MX6]

Awesome Rod - thanks for the great info. Especially like incorporating a microswitch from an old PC joystick! Just checking - I should have a look at the driver's side first? I'll have a go at it tomorrow.

[rodhog]

It's only in the drivers side.

The only model to come different in Gd shape or similar would the the GV1024 but not sure how many.

But definatley new models with full remote and I think it was option on the late Ge's but I know it was on the GF's.

It won't take long to work out.

The rest of the system is almost fault less.

[1989MX6]

Thanks again, Rod. Have a great weekend.

[ausloki]

and it must be that time of thing or an age thing. my drivers side door just started having a problem with the alarm circuit or solenoid as well.

if i use the key it will lock all the doors no problems. but if i use the remote it will only lock and rarely unlock.

i checked that solenoid on the door and its only a two wire solenoid. so maybe i'm missing something or needing a visual aid.

Mine is the GE KL 626

[rodhog]

On the Ge's it depends how it's wired.

the GE system is not as bulletproof at the GD one. I don't know why. I guess jsut quality.

but similar issue.

btu what I tihnk is occuring is the ROD - is not tight enough on the main lock rod so it's not quite activating the rest of the system.

in effect re adjust the rod to the actuator and it might start workign right again.

[1989MX6]

My problem's definitely electrical - rods are all A-OK. Readjusted both doors but central locking is still cactus. I don't have a garage so I'm working in the small, (one way) street I live on. My doors are big enough to block the street, so whenever anyone comes along (often) I have to close my car door to let them pass. Damn you convenient, close to pub and take away inner-city living! I think I'll leave this to an auto elec.

[ausloki]

ok mine was the solenoid itself. it seems they get tired after a while and don't have the same strength to activate properly. replaced my solenoid and all works again.

[1989MX6]

Would a tired solenoid cause a blown fuse? I changed the 30A fuse this morning and all was working again for a while, but now I have a short. Yesterday, I took off both door trims and had a good look around while I lubricated the locks with a bit of WD40. I couldn't see any trapped/damaged wire.

[rodhog]

yep it can do. they don't last forever.
It's the only thing I've replaced on the lexus under warrenty but it is the only thing.

[BoneXXX]

I am having problem with the passenger side door.There is a problem with locking. It unlocks perfectly fine.

But,sometimes it doesn't lock, sometimes I have to try 4-5 times to make it work.Driver side works fine, it is just the passenger side and it should be completely work or shouldn't work, why sometimes? What could be wrong? Any ideas?

[rodhog]

same as above the signal fro mthe drivers side door switch is not being passed over. Hopefully the metal tab which activates it is not broken off.

Sounds more like it's just a little bent. or out of shape.