No need to get upset, I gave you the things you need to do, you just don't like them. I'm not going to argue with you about what you think is right, but I've owned one of these far longer then you and ZE's do pass etest.
As far as "things to do" other then converting it to OBD-I is to contact someone on the boards to create a plug and play Megasquirt system. Then you can do whatever you want to the system. Beyond that, it's OBD-I conversion or she'll never run to it's full potential.
I'm going to take a stab in the dark and guess that you get about 300-350km to a tank (at best) from your car currently. Am I close? I get 500kms (heavy foot) to 600kms (highway) and that's with the system running extremely rich. If I were to have it tuned, I could easily turn that up.
For the advanced timing, you need to retard it, but not too much or you'll run too lean and it will create more blow-by and just start burning more oil.
If you test as a hotrod, it will always be known as a hotrod, which for resale can make it harder to sell. But, if it passes without, it will run better and save you more a year in gas then it would cost you to fix it initially.
Take that as far as you want, but that's what you need to do. Remember, ZE's do pass, but most don't because the owners don't know how to look after a motor that has likely been sitting on a shelf for 2-5 years without running.
Ok, firstly, I didn't mean to sound upset sorry if i did. I was a bit desprete though and had many people calling/talking to me while i was trying to post this (i'm organizing a wonderland trip). If I re-read my post i can see that you would think i was being rude, again apologies.
Now down to buisness, no ZE i've heard of has passed. I do not understand how yours did, but I will take your word that a ZE can pass. I am running rich currently but I'm also pretty sure I have a vacuum leak (my car's idle stays at 1.5 after driving for a bit and has hard starting). Due to this my mileage is currently 400-430 a tank (with bouts of WOT put throughout). I'm taking your word that my ECU is also running me rich.
A megasquirt solution would be great but if i'm correct it's also expensive. (maybe there are cheaper alternatives). I will definatley consider a tuned MS if it is $350 or less (assuming that the fuel economy of my car will improve sufficiently enough).
O and testing as a hot rod...from what I know it's not a big deal. The status of your car does not become a hot rod. It's simply the e-test standards change. You do not even need a letter from mazda sometimes (if your lucky enough to find nice garage). If I am wrong on this correct me, but your insurance will not know for sure.
Finally, retarding the timing...UGHHH lol . I'd like to think i'm good with cars and if i'm not good enough I definatly know family that is. So i will definatley try that.
In conclusion, I would love to have my car running smoothly and efficiently, but the length and extent I will have to go through...
EDIT: What is the exact price of a megasquirt? I understand that there are two members that pre-tune MS and sell them. I have pm'd them but no one says their price...I guess it's rude..
Ok, firstly, I didn't mean to sound upset sorry if i did. I was a bit desprete though and had many people calling/talking to me while i was trying to post this (i'm organizing a wonderland trip). If I re-read my post i can see that you would think i was being rude, again apologies.
Now down to buisness, no ZE i've heard of has passed. I do not understand how yours did, but I will take your word that a ZE can pass. I am running rich currently but I'm also pretty sure I have a vacuum leak (my car's idle stays at 1.5 after driving for a bit and has hard starting). Due to this my mileage is currently 400-430 a tank (with bouts of WOT put throughout). I'm taking your word that my ECU is also running me rich.
A megasquirt solution would be great but if i'm correct it's also expensive. (maybe there are cheaper alternatives). I will definatley consider a tuned MS if it is $350 or less (assuming that the fuel economy of my car will improve sufficiently enough).
O and testing as a hot rod...from what I know it's not a big deal. The status of your car does not become a hot rod. It's simply the e-test standards change. You do not even need a letter from mazda sometimes (if your lucky enough to find nice garage). If I am wrong on this correct me, but your insurance will not know for sure.
Finally, retarding the timing...UGHHH lol . I'd like to think i'm good with cars and if i'm not good enough I definatly know family that is. So i will definatley try that.
In conclusion, I would love to have my car running smoothly and efficiently, but the length and extent I will have to go through...
EDIT: What is the exact price of a megasquirt? I understand that there are two members that pre-tune MS and sell them. I have pm'd them but no one says their price...I guess it's rude..
There are plenty of members ZE's here that have passed. One example I can think of off the top of my head is Jello_G's. No matter, I will agree that it's not easy to do and requires that the car is either in top shape (motor wise) or tuned appropraitely so that it will pass. My motor, which has the manifold and ZE tune (so no EGR), wont pass without reverting back to the old ECU and playing with a 8-10*timing. It's currently at 12* advanced. But at that tune, it blows oil through the intake because of the lack of EGR plumbing and 204,000km valve seals, and runs so rich you can smell the raw fuel coming out the tail pipe. That there is enough to blow your emissions out the water and probably completely foul your cat. Best to have a street cat and a testing cat, as well as ECU.
Megasquirt can be bought through DIY Auto Tune or you can speak with Radar or Fastest95pgt about getting a setup and having one built. I know at one point they were doing harnesses for them, but not sure if they still do or not. Not sure what they charge, but it can't hurt to ask.
Currently, your ECU is looking for other sensors to give it feedback on how the car is running. With the ZE, most of those sensors are unhooked or reading false readings. The computer still sees them as "working" but not 100%, so it wont throw a code until they break, but it will go into a protection mode against your car potentially leaning out. To do that, it ups the fuel usage.
If I were you, I'd try a cat and seafoam the intake and gas. From there, if it doesn't pass, you at least have a reading for how well it's running. Then you can test as a hotrod. For a cat, get a Walker cat, not a Magnaflow.
-Matt-
SOLD - 1994 Mazda MX6 LS, Infiniti G35 HID conversion, 2.5" Magnaflow cat-back, 3" CAI, 16x8" FD RX7 wheels, LEDA Custom True Coilovers, shaved body and full repaint, Genuine Mazdaspeed Kit, '03 Protege rear caliper conversion, and much, much more...
Well since its already known that you have no EGR..lower the car and ask for a 2 speed idle, say that you don't want your car damaged on the dyno because its so low. I work at Canadian Tire and my buddy of mine does the e-tests there...I know my EGR is [fizzle]ed because the first time I got the test done my NOX was like 1600 . I just replaced the cat and ran a 2 speed and it passed with flying colors...20 bucks says I would have failed the normal test because I'm pretty sure my EGR isnt functioning. Oh and just about every Canadian Tire I've seen has the E-test dyno above ground, the middle lowers down..so its very easy for your car to be too low..
My Garage:
1993 Mazda MX6 LS Mystere v6 5speed, Borla Catback, Cold Air Intake
1987 Mazda RX7 88' 13B, 88' Tranny, 5 lug Conversion, S5 Tails
Auto Apprentice, Now an MX6 owner.
im running a ze in my 96 probe gt with stock ecu and oem converter and im running a egr valve, i got a letter from ford they think its a 1.8L mazda so i got the letter for hot rod pass this is my readings
-------- limit --- reading
HC ppm -- 278 -- 48
CO ----- 2.17 -- 0.12
NO ppm -- 2868 -- 1598
over all pass but how can i get the nox down i have a good converter and all 4 new o2 sensors
any help would be awsome and im gonna be putting headers in when i take the precats out is that gonna make me fail
^Are you on the original cats? That could be part of the problem with your NOx count. The low HC makes me think that the car is running fairly lean, which helps with etesting, but you'll want to raise that fuel curve up for performance.
When you say you still have the EGR, did you decide to keep the DE manifold and put it on the ZE or are you running the full ZE with manifold? If your running the ZE manifold, did you modify it for EGR? Again, if not, then your EGR is doing nothing and my point is proven that it's useless for passing on these cars. Regardless, I'd think that your cat's are gone and would personally recommend a Walker cat of some sort for your vehicle. Should help.
-Matt-
SOLD - 1994 Mazda MX6 LS, Infiniti G35 HID conversion, 2.5" Magnaflow cat-back, 3" CAI, 16x8" FD RX7 wheels, LEDA Custom True Coilovers, shaved body and full repaint, Genuine Mazdaspeed Kit, '03 Protege rear caliper conversion, and much, much more...
ya my cat is stock and is good it passed no problem with the stock engine. and im running the curved neck enuros 800 intake i think its called. there is a egr port in the intake i replaced the egr when i had it off i looked at it because people were saying there was no port . when i got my ze there was just a plate blocking off the egr hole anyways its there and works but im running a hot rod status and has no effect on the car if i ever want to sell it i just had to get a paper from a ford dealership stating that it was not a motor that came in a probe, the guy thought it was a 1.8L lol witch work perfect for me. all i did was give the guy at drive clean the letter and he change the drive clean system to hotrod modd like i said no one would ever know.. over all how can i get the nox down i know for a fact the cat is good and my o2 sensors are i just replaced them. any ideas????
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