Hey all,

I finally got my new tranny installed last night, was tuff to get it in but I did it and it was a good feeling of relief, also installed fidanza flywheel + southbend stage 2 tz clutch+ pressure plate. Put mostly everything back together except for the crossmember and engine cradle.

Two things i've noticed, first my shift stick doesn't seem to be centered anymore when im in neutral, its actualy 2/3rd's of the the way down when in neutral so when I try to shift into second, fourth and reverse I hit the plastic interior surrounding the shift stick, Is there some sort of adjustment for this?

Second, after putting the slave cylinder back on I went to go press the clutch pedal and It was all the way to the floor, so I grabbed it with my hand and started to pump it and now im getting some pressure but only at the halfway point of pressing the pedal, the first half there is no pressure at all, does this make sense? would I have to adjust my clutch pedal even though I didn't mess with it before this happened or do I need to bleed my slave cylinder for some odd reason? I didnt press the clutch while the slave cylinder was taken off the tranny

Maybe since I changed the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate the release bearing needs to travel further so there is no feeling of pressure in the clutch pedal for the first half, if this was the case what would I need to do to fix that?

Any help is greatly appeciated! I was to get my car back on the road!!! :)

hi i recently swapped in a new klde motor into my mx6 and when i started it i noticed it was blowing white smoke there isnt alot but there is a strong smell of unburnt petrol any suggestions cheers

Recently I've noticed that about 1 in 5 times my car takes longer to start than normal. Similiar to the sound a car will make when its incredibly cold out. Also, a couple of times the past few days it has started normally, but there will be a lag between when the car 'starts' and when the car actually starts making noise. Unsure if that's a correct diagnostic but this happens in a split second, but I have noticed it to be off. *just to clarify, I turn key, car starts, then lag, and I hear the muffler.*

Hey everyone , ive been slowly but surely getting my car together, but i was finally on my way to get it inspected and the speedo and tach died at the same time, any one have an idea or experienced this before? the bezel still lights up when the lights are turned on and the turn signals work...but no speedo or tach

So If anyone can possibly pin point the culprit of this problem, I will give you my deepest gratitude! I'll even paypal you some $$ (seriously)

I own a 1994 Mazda MX-6.(5-speed)
I've owned the car for about 2 years now. I've changed replaced a bunch of parts for the car. (clutch,radiator,fuelpump,spark plugs etc etc. etc.)

but for some reason I cannot figure out this problem!!

My car has been driving perfectly fine the past 2 years...but last week my car ran completely rough out of no where one early morning on my way to work..It had a loss of power, and as I stepped on the gas peddle the car would bog down and slowly work it's way up while backfiring. I would have to flutter the clutch pedal in order to keep the idle from dying. I figured I might have been running out of gas or something? (was below a quarter tank) So I went to the nearest gas station...Filled up my tank...Started it up and it ran like shit again.

I have already replaced my MAFS sensor,Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor,Fuel Pump.

I've manually checked each of my spark plugs ( took out the spark plugs while the spark plug wires were still connected and cranked the car while holding it against the chasis to see spark )

I've manually taken off the fuel line going to the fuel injectors while cranking the car...and it gets fuel perfectly fine to the injectors and inside the cylinders.

There shouldn't be a reason why my car is not firing up? Sometimes when I let it sit outside and randomly go try to start the car it fires right up....but still runs like complete shit. Loss of power and I basically have to rev up the motor (burn clutch lol) to keep it from dying.

There is no vacuum leaks in the car whatsoever. I sprayed carborator cleaner over all my vacuum lines and no signs of any leaks whatsoever.

Has anyone had this problem? The timing has never been messed with. And I doubt it could have got knocked off a few degree's.

My next inspection will be the throttle position sensor.

Everything else runs great (except the AC).

When I purchased the car they had a receipt from a salvage yard that replaced the waterpump less then 2 months ago. A month or so later it was leaking.

Family friend who is a GM mechanic replaced the waterpump. Less then a month later it was leaking again.

Took the car into a shop. They performed 1300 worth of work and fixing the mistakes of the family friend who apparently didn't do something right.

Less then a month later the waterpump was leaking again! I took it back to the shop who stood by their warranty and covered the waterpump (which was bad) and the labor.

I have never been hard on the car. What would cause waterpumps to go bad? :shrug:

ok i have a mx6 with a 2.0 and was wondering if the compressor used on the v6 can be used on the 4 cylinder i looked at them and they looked identical but looks can be decieving

Hey all,

I was working on the 6 a few days ago trying to clean out the EGR valve when I accidentally bent one of the coolant lines while trying to get in there. I seem to have broken off the plastic nipple which was once attached to the coolant line. I don't know exactly know what part to call it, which is why I took some pictures ..



A closer look



Without the plastic plug, there is no way I can get the hose back on .. Can someone please guide me or tell me what part this is?

Kind regards,

napalm

I put in new spark plugs today and air filter. Engine is running
great at 186,000 miles just turned today....

I was looking at the 6 spark plugs I took out compared to the photos
in the manuals. They all look normal, brown gray tan color and slight
electrode wear. They had about 35,000 miles.

But the one from cylinder #1 has a little oil on it. Not in the combustion
chamber area, or on the threads, but kind of above that, right about where
the hex nut is to tighten and loosen the plug.

I would like to know where that oil might be coming from. Would it most
likely be from the hydraulic valve lifter (there is a little noise when the engine starts up). Or would it be something like a little gasket leak ?

Anyway, I don't think it's much of a issue, at least now. Engine never
had an overhaul yet.....!

thanks for any info.

Need help fixing this as winter is coming up and i start driving pretty early now..

I've checked the contacts on the back window.. they seem to be doing their job (not sure what readings i should be getting)

I think the main issue is that theres no air blowing on to the window from the vents in the back.. where/how can i check the lines for this? also I've done some research on the subject and found a few posts mentioning a circuit breaker, i have been yet to find any breaker by the fuse box, could someone please post a picture? Thanks guys.

I have a 93 2.5 and it seems to jerk alot and smell really rich when driving down the road. if i let the car sit and cool completely it will run fine untill i get going downt he road for like five minutes, then the problem just gets worse. i have replace distributor, spark plug wires, and the fuel filter. It feels like it just is not getting the spark it needs to go. it has a little trouble cranking but once it starts it will sit and idle with no problems. Please help.

Ok, This one really has me stumped.

I've been having an overheating issue that started very quickly one day and has progressively gotten worse.

Here is the rundown:

Will drive all day on the highway and sit right in the middle of the temp gauge where it should be.

If I drive around town, it will be fine for a while, and then start to creep up towards the red, unless I get on the highway again and maintain constant speed.

If i come off the highway, or even let off the gas it will spike up almost 3/4 of the way, and then creep up to hot.

I've never let it touch red (on purpose) for more than 5-6 seconds, I always shut the car down when this happens.

Heres what i've done:

The water pump was replaced 6 months ago when I did the timing belt. I just had the timing belt apart again because the cheap hydraulic tensioner failed. I checked the pump for leaks / play while i had it apart.

The fans are working properly.

The Thermostat is new, as of yesterday. Still does it.

The radiator was replaced 2 years ago, and the coolant is green and shows no sign of corrosion.

Block tester strips come back negative, so no evidence of a blown head gasket.

My gut instinct says the impeller on the water pump might have something to do with this, but i have great heat, and turning the heat on does NOT reduce the temp of the car.

I'm really stumped here, and this car is my only transportation right now, so I don't want to compound the problem by running it hot...

Any suggestions?

Hi

I just took off the headliner and am trying to find where the leak is coming from. I noticed that when it is wet, it slowly starts to leak from the rear left and right (mainly left). I tried pouring a bottle of water down over the sun roof and I didn't get any leakage. I then got the hose and still nothing until I opened up the sunroof and pointed the hose down on the side. In the first picture



"A" represents where the water came from after I put the hose in on the side. Personally I'm not too sure if thats where the leak is coming due to extra-ordinariness of how the water came in (the hose etc.)



"B" represents the hole I found on both rear sides. It originally had some tape over both holes. Could these two holes be responsible due to their location and close proximity to where the water originally comes from?

I have a 93 Mazda MX6 LS. I recently ordered a disty from eBay the seller stated that it would work on a 93-94 Probe V6 or MX6 V6..... When I received the disty it looked nothing like the one that I have.... My old disty has no documentation on the model but the firing order on the two caps is completely different.... Would this work on my car does anyone know?
And in advance if this question has been answered I'm sorry, thanks everyone.

Ok, dont know where to go from here.
My problem is this,
I find that the temperature stays high on the car and when you turn it off if I didnt wait for the fan to turn on then off its way too high
this is what I have done to it .
-Radiator
-timing belt and water pump
-temperature sending unit.
-coolant sensor. ( Also autometer C2 gauge full sweep coolant temp)
-thermostate.
The car will average a temperature of 190, on hot days it sits between 200-220, the fan will kick in at 222 approx.
And yesterday was a hot day I pulled over for a drink and when got back in the car the temp was sitting at 250 ??
I think that getting a little too high for comfort....

Any got suggestion or do I re-wire and put it direct with a switch lmao