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Old 2-24-08, 20:26   #76 (permalink)
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they will be soft if they are full of air. if you fill them with oil they will be hard. if you over fill them, the valves hang open and you get no compression...

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Old 2-25-08, 4:26   #77 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fredio54 View Post
they will be soft if they are full of air. if you fill them with oil they will be hard. if you over fill them, the valves hang open and you get no compression...
can i assembly the HLA with only air inside?
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Old 2-25-08, 6:36   #78 (permalink)
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Yeah, make sure they are wet with oil though. I believe empty installation is recommended by mazda anyway, but I decided to full mine right up such that there was no chance of air inside.

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Old 2-25-08, 6:55   #79 (permalink)
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Yeah, make sure they are wet with oil though. I believe empty installation is recommended by mazda anyway, but I decided to full mine right up such that there was no chance of air inside.
I`ve tryed to fill some of them with oil, but they are stil soft? Witch part of tha HLA is the one that i should fill with oil? The big part or the litte part with a spring inside?
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Old 2-25-08, 8:03   #80 (permalink)
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http://home.online.no/~arban/Pics/FE3-HLA.jpg

the inner most region above the red stripes is what needs to be full of oil for them to be hard.

it doesnt matter so much that it is hard before you put it in, rather that it has the capability to become hard.

so long as the small ball and seat are perfectly clean and the rest of it is clean enough, then it will function well.

see the first page of this thread for a description of how to fill them with oil if you want to ensure that your cleaning was good enough before installation.

fred.

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Old 5-1-08, 6:07   #81 (permalink)
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Fixed all the images that were broken in this yesterday, also :

Good post about a difference in BP lifters of the later newer possibly better variety :

AMAZD :: View topic - Noisy Lifters?? Read this!

Good thread on Nissan ones :

TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - Lifter Rebuild 101:

Not sure about the scotch bright thing. Maybe if you are swapping cams... but not if the same cams are going in in the same order.

Fred.

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Old 5-1-08, 6:12   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
on a related note:

just took apart my BP lifters and i think its been mentioned before but best method for taking them apart is too-

hold lifter in hand camshaft/flat side of bucket facing you and slam/tap them down onto a piece of wood, after a few bangs the piston assembly will just fall out, no pliers/vice grips needed.

also there is a subtle difference between BG-BP hla's and BA-BP lantis ones on the BP motors, inner piston (the one with the ball & spring) has an oil groove & hole similar to outside of lifter bucket, must be a revision/improvent as it was absent on my BG-BP hla's, must be a technical reason for the change?
Quoted for prosperity in case amazd goes down at some stage.

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Old 5-9-08, 13:22   #83 (permalink)
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lifter cleaning

i cleaned all 16 lifters in my 2.0 DOHC in carb cleaner (its the best parts cleaner. its in a gallon container). disassembled them completely, hitting them on a 2X4 a couple times till the piston clip came loose. sometimes the piston comes loose and you have to pull it out..anyways i had one lifter that was collapsed you could push it down with a finger..the exhaust valve that it was lifting got burned along the one edge and had a two cracks on the same edge..what happens with a bad lifter is that the check valve gets clogged up with carbon..its inside the bottom piston..theres a retainer enclosing a tiny spring and a ball..this gets clogged sometimes and causes lifter klacking. the lifter wont be working right and the valve will not open enough or close fully..a good cleaning should take care of the problem..there is no seal of any type..i lightly lubed the parts with oil on assembly..ill llet the oil pump fill up the lifters.. i got the newer oil pump with the longer relief valve
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Old 5-9-08, 14:12   #84 (permalink)
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There may not be a seal, but the fit between the parts is close enough to be air tight! :-)

I think you are very unlucky to have burned a valve because of it. 9/10 they will simply not open enough, rather than not close all the way. that is quite strange.

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Old 5-10-08, 14:04   #85 (permalink)
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lifters

im not sure if the collapsed lifter caused the burned valve ..it might have been a defect in the valve..25% of burned valves are the direct result of the valve itself
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Old 5-10-08, 15:51   #86 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by neilh2o View Post
im not sure if the collapsed lifter caused the burned valve ..it might have been a defect in the valve..25% of burned valves are the direct result of the valve itself

if I daresay... further 74% are because of bad valve seat rings

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 5-10-08, 18:42   #87 (permalink)
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nah, poor non hla lifter adjustment and retarded ignition must have killed their share surely.

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