Well assuming you are turboing you will be getting dished pistons anyway so the valve reliefs will be....HUGE. I don't think there will be any interference fit. If so a machine shop could shave them to fit easily if you don't feel up to it yourself. As for them fitting otherwise, they are the correct bore and the exact right CH at 1.26" or 32mm.
ok, the included valve angle of the sr20 is a LOT lower than the 45deg of the fe3. so definitely not perfect for the reliefs, but they will probably work.
given that the chamber volume is much lower on the sr20 head, you will find that the comp ratio advertised for the piston is a lot lower on the fe3.
this all assumes that pin size and pin height are correct.
i swear i went through them and didnt find a doner. but maybe i missed them.
as for the cranks, they have different casting marks F201 and F??? (someone help me out here) but are both cast, and both strong enough.
both pins are 22mm or 0.866". I don't know how "pin height" fits into any equation. CH is what decides it it sticks out of the deck or not. I think if you get a dished piston (turbo) then you won't have a problem. I don't mind being the guinea pig and buying a set, although that won't happen for a month or so. If they don't have clearances then I will just sell them off and get a set from venolia. Everything but valve clearance matches up perfectly from the measurements given by the manufacturers.
no fe3 pin height is 36mm and sr20 pin height is 32mm and yes both pins are 22mm im throwing together a 2.2 stroker with sr20 pistons at the mo for my rx7. and my forged stroker fe3 has ross sr20det pistons in it but i have 6 inch chev rods so the tops of the pistons got decked by the extra rod length witch upped my compression so all worked out perfect! there is one mod that needs to be done to the pistons and thats relief the skirts of the pistons for the squirters fe3 has 2 squirters on the front side of 2 of the bores and on the rear side of the other two where as sr20 is all on the same side so this means two of the pistons will contact the squirters so i made my skirts of all my pistons semetrical and relieved the unrelieved sides of the pistons. and yes my spelling sux
i am about to order som engine bearings, i am making my genuine fe3 a stroker, and are putting in a f2 cranck, therfore i am going to change the bearings. BUT do i need undersize berings or standard? or does that have nothing to say ?
The Norwegian Reinforcement Squad
Mazda 626 2.3i 16v DOCH 1988
Mazda 626 2.2i 4WD 1990 (soon to be turbo?)
Use your current bearings to measure the clearances with the stroker crank. If the clearances are in spec then you know you just need to get standards.
does the kia rod/main bearings fit the genuine FE3?
The rod bearings yes. But not the main bearings as the Mazda block does not have the groove for the thrust bearings. You'll need the one piece main bearings.
-Rick- 88 MX6 GTCeleste Boosted on an Electromotive TECII standalone. FE-DOHC rebuild 198kw, 393Nm/ @ 1.04 bar
Quote:
This is a little-visited and quite esoteric area of the site...
The rod bearings yes. But not the main bearings as the Mazda block does not have the groove for the thrust bearings. You'll need the one piece main bearings.
what do you mean by groove? are they 3 piece per half/6 piece? or do you mean an oiling groove? or the alignment notch?
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Originally Posted by bpt323
which is a better design in terms of main bearings, the FE3 or the Kia block??? Im picking up a Kia FE3 this saturday.... slowly begining my project.
probably the correct one for your block, but if the kia is multi piece, that sounds a bit dodgy.
any one got any pics?
might see if i can source some from a guy on another site.
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