Ultimate FE3 Buildup: Cylinder Head

[DJ_JaKe]

Ultimate FE3 Buildup: Cylinder Head

I'll be making several topics, concerning specific areas of an FE-DOHC build, to give people an idea what kind of work, time, and money is involved in getting everything from a mild to wild FE3 unleashed. Expect specific topics on bottom end, head, induction, fueling, electronics, drivetrain, etc.
I will also be making comparisons between aftermarket, stock, and F2T parts.
This guide assumes you have basic knowledge on the FE3, history, model differences, etc.
Through the way i break these up, you should read them together. the Bottom End rebuild topic isnt compelete without reading Cylinder Head afterwards for example.
TO AVOID CLUTTERING DISCUSSION, I WILL INCLUDE PART NUMBERS TOWARD THE END OF EVERYTHING I MENTION

Ultimate FE3 Buildup; 1 of many. Cylinder Head and Deck Up

FE3 vs F2
The difference between the FE-DOHC and F2 aluminum cylinder heads is immediatly apparent to anyone who looks at them. One is a 16 valve DOHC with a much simpler design, and the other is a poorly flowing 12 valve SOHC motor. The FE3's sparkplug is located in the center of the chamber, which is the more efficient location compared to the side on the F2. The FE3's 2 intake valves are 33.8mm, opposed to the two 32.6mm on the F2. The FE3 has two 29.0mm Exhaust valves compared to the single 34.1mm valve on the F2.
The intake ports on the FE3 are substantially larger then the ones on the F2, however, their shapes and design are similar. Exhaust side is also larger on the FE3, but it is very different from the F2. No way could you mount an F2T manifold and turbo to an FE3
The FE3 has 3 oil return passages from the head to the block, opposed to the one large return in the upper center of the F2 deck. Despite what many claim, there is no proper way to mate the DOHC head to the F2 bottom end. The supporting work involved isnt worth the time or money.
Head bolts are the same at 14mm in size. Both motors use the same paper style headgasket.
Nothing is interchangable between either heads.

FE3 ANALYSIS
The DOHC cylinder head on top of the FE block is a real gem. It has awesome flow even in stock form, with plenty of room for improvement.
Stock it is sealed by 14mm head bolts and a paper gasket. If the motor sees any big boost on this stock setup, it will fail instantly. If you limit your boost for the sake of your stock internals, the headgasket should hold as well.
The chamber on the head side is well shaped, placing the spark plug in the center, and valves in the corners. On the corners closest to the valves, it is very tight between the chamber wall and the valve opening, restricting flow and good swirl in the combustion chamber when the airfuel mixture enters.
Stock valves are adequate even for bigger boost applications. Going upwards, you will find a dual valve spring setup on each valve. This is very uncommon in a factory application, but nevertheless, the stock springs are too weak for any high rpm fun. Float will occur in the 7500+ rpm range on stock springs.
The keepers/locks on the exhaust side allow the valve to rotate to keep them from burning, but it is certainly something you wouldnt want in a high performance engine. If you are on the stock springs, the keepers wont be a problem since you wont rev very high anyways.
Above that we find the HLA. This is the main connection between the valve assembly and the camshaft. The camshaft lobe pushes down on the HLA, which in turn pushes open the valve. Converting to a solid cam/lifter setup is critical for anyone looking to play anywhere close to 10k, since the stock HLA's arent meant to run that quick.
Camshafts are fairly aggressive for stock units, but run out of steam by 8,000rpm really. I've only come across two sets of cams. The low and high compression motors had two slightly different sets of cams, with about 5 degrees less duration on each cam on the low compression FE3's.
The cylinder head doesnt require much work for it to help generate big power on a well built bottom end and turbo setup. One of the reasons a big power FE3 is cheaper to build then an F2T is because of this head. Headwork is expensive, and you can throw thousands into modifying the F2 head, and it probably wont flow or rev like even a stock FE3's.

[DJ_JaKe]

FE3 Rebuild
If you are serious about power, and your bottom end is built right, then your cylinder head will also see some work. Proper headwork can be expensive, so its up to you how mild or wild you want to be. One thing to consider is that if your goals are in the 400+whp range, the head doesnt need any expensive port or oversize work. Many people will be fine with just a proper rebuild, and upgrading a few things. Either way, i will try to cover as much as possible.

DECK/HEADGASKET
Your bottom end should have been checked for straightness, and properly decked/resurfaced. The same will need to be done to the deck on the head's side. If your setup is more mild, in the 400whp range, then thats all that will be neccessary to ensure a good seal. However, if you anticipate yourself running 25+ psi of boost, you will want to change to a metal headgasket. Many offer copper headgaskets as a replacement, but its not complete without an O-ringing. The headgasket maker can also supply you with the neccessary wire. The wire is usually stainless steel, and you bring it to a machine shop to install. The machine shop will grind reciever rings into the block, and install the wire for you. This will ensure a perfect seal.

HEAD STUDS
You cant reuse your head bolts, so you will need replacements. You can get new bolts from KIA, but that wont cut it on a large boost application. If theres one thing you will order from ARP, its headstuds. Order a set of studs, nuts and hardended washers. Mazda says stock head bolts should be torqued between 59-64 ft/lbs, Should be fine if youre running all motor. Decent boost on a the ARP studs and factory headgasket, torque the nuts down to about 80ft/lbs. With a metal headgasket and the ARP studs, you can go as far as 100ft/lbs, but it shouldnt be neccessary unless you are planning on running some HEAVY boost. Whatever you choose, dont forget proper torque sequencing, and to torque it down in stages. With a metal headgasket theres a special procedure to ensure the o-rings and gasket seal properly. its often best to leave this up to the machine shop if they are experiance with proper "printing" procedures.

CHAMBER
The FE3 head can benefit from good chamber work. You can have the chamber polished. An important part is to have the area in the corners of the chamber opened up a little, since it is very tight around the valves. This unshrowding would promote swirl and atomitization, and improve flow on the whole.

VALVES
Stock valves are well sized, and can be reused. If you decide to reuse the valves, it is suggested you have the shop do a 5 angle valve job while enlarging the seat of each valve. From the factory, most engines, such as the FE3, the valve seat is cut undersized by about 1mm for the valve. The valve seat job will help flow past the seat, as well as open it up a bit more to match the factory valve. You can also choose to have oversized valves put in. You will need to have something custom done for this, since there isnt any over the counter oversize valve that fits our keepers. Machining a different valves stem to fit our keepers IS NOT reccommended. The 300zx valves do fit, but how to integrate them properly into our heads is a guarded secret by some, and at the moment its not something i will disclose. Your new valves can also have whats called undercut stems. The stem between where it meets the guide and the head of the valve is thinned out, so there are some small flow gains in this area of the valve bowl/port.

SPRINGS / KEEPERS
Stock dual valve springs are a great design, but too weak for higher rpm fun. One of the most effective things you can do is replace the outer springs with the VR6 valve springs from the golf GTi. I've been recently told that the springs from an e34 M5 will fit the FE3. Both inner and outer will fit. I havent used them myself to confirm, but from the pics it appears to be true. Would seem like using the VR6 outer and M5 inner would be a great combo! Too bad BMW only sells the inner/outer together, at about $30 each, at least thats what they quoted me. (Thanks D7ig for the info) If youre using custom valves, then you will also need to acquire a custom spring, retainer, and keeper setup. Another important modification is to replace the keepers on the exhaust side with intake side keepers. Basically, when rebuilding your valve train, get a set of keepers from KIA from the intake side. Now you will have two sets of intake keepers, new ones, and old ones. Throw out the exhaust keepers, and install the intake keepers on both exhaust and intake valves. Stock exhaust keepers allow the valve to spin, which is dangerous for higher rpm action.

VALVE GUIDES / SEALS
Replace your valve guides if theyre worn out. Youre unlikely to see this condition, but if for some odd reason they are bad, replacing them is costly. Get new valve stem seals for the rebuild regardless.

HLA'S
Most can get away with just getting new HLA's, or rebuilding the current ones. No point in using worn HLA's in a rebuild head. For anyone seeking to play past 9,000rpm, HLA's will need to go in favour of a solid lifter conversion. At the time being, the details of this conversion are also a guarded modification, but anyone serious can figure it out for themselves. If you plan to run stock cams, you wont be revving much past 8,000rpm anyways, so solid lifter isnt a big concern.

CAMSHAFTS
No over the counter replacements for the camshafts. Only option is to have them regrinded, but you will have to decide on the specs, mainly duration and lift, of your regrind. The typical regrind facilitates the use of solid lifters, so an agressive regrind goes hand in hand with the solid lifter and custom valvetrain solution. Most people wont need to take this step unless you have good reason to pull to 10,000rpm and above, a bottom end that can handle that kind of rotation, and a suitable induction setup to help feed it, i.e. you wont be using the stock intake manifold or small turbo on this.

PORTS
Stock ports are well sized and flow well. If you decide to do a port job, ensure it is handled by a QUALIFIED and EXPERIANCE cylinder head shop, that has a flow bench. Porting is tricky work, and very very time consuming depending on what you would like done. You will benefit from just smoothing out the cast texture inside the ports to a polished finish on the exhaust side, and a slightly rougher polish on the intake side. A more generous porting will involve opening up the ports even further. You could always just hog the ports out, but bigger isnt always better. By just going nuts with a dremel, you may improve top end flow, but you will most certainly kill low and mid range flow velocity. Focus on the bowl area, since this is where most of the swirl takes place prior to entering the combustion chamber. Proper flow and velocity inside the port depends on a good porter and flow bench. Do some research in your area who is capable, and dont drop it off at the first guy who looks good. Head porting is an art form, so avoid having it butchered.

CAM GEARS
No available adjustable cam gears. However, a little bit of imagination and fabrication can build adequate ones out of the stock units. This isnt usually neccessary, especially if you have no idea how to degree the cams properly in relation to your bottom end, as well as what retarding and advancing individual cams can do for your powerband.

OTHER
Every good rebuild needs pretty much every little thing replaced. Feel free to use new items everywhere. You can reuse certain things, but it goes without saying, dont reuse the headgasket, head bolts, cam seals, etc. Complete list what is required is below.

[DJ_JaKe]

OTHER PARTS REQUIRED, PART NUMBERS / PRICING
Despite the FE3 being only offered in europe and japan, the idea that we cant get anything for it in north america isnt true. Every little gasket and seal is easy to come by.
For a project like this, KIA motors and their parts network will be your best freind. The FE3 came here in the form of their 2.0 DOHC sportage motor from 95-01. Everything between the valve cover and the oilpan is nearly the same.
If youre a junkyard warrior, then this motor isnt for you. Here is a quick overview what you will need, CYLINDER HEAD ONLY!!!!! EVERYTHING FROM THE DECK DOWN IS INCLUDED IN BOTTOM END TOPIC.

ITEM / WHERE TO FIND / (QUANTITY) PART NUMBER / APPROX. PRICE / NOTES

HEAD BOLTS / KIA USA / (10) 0F801-10135 / $80 / Factory Headbolt from KIA. Use these if you are not planning to use ARP headstuds.

HEAD BOLT WASHERS / KIA USA / (10) 0F801-10138 / $30 / Factory Head bolt washers. Use these if you are not planning to use ARP headstuds.

ARP HEAD STUDS / ARP DEALER / (10) AU4-800-1LUB / $180 / ARP headstuds, that is a custom order number, so some ARP dealers may not recognize it, as its not something you find in the catalogue

ARP HARDENED WASHERS / ARP DEALER / (10) 300-8307 / $20 / ARP hardened washers, to be used with head studs.

ARP NUTS / ARP DEALER / (10) 200-8516 / $20 / ARP nuts, to be used with head studs.

HEADGASKET / KIA USA / 0K013-10271 / $100 / KIA headgasket. Factory replacement if you are not using a custom metal unit.

COPPER HEADGASKET / SCE / SCE???? / $150 / SCE copper headgasket. Cant seem to find the part #. may need to contact them. Make sure you order the stainless steel o-ring wire.

VALVE GUIDES EXHAUST & INTAKE / KIA USA / (8) 0FE3N-10291 & (8) 0FE3N-10281 / $150 / Valve guides, in case yours are worn badly.

VALVE STEM SEALS / KIA USA / (16) 0KL02-10155 / $60 /

VALVE COVER GASKET / KIA USA / 0K955-10235B / $15 /

TIMING BELT / KIA USA / 0K954-12205 / $150 /

HLA's / KIA USA / (16) 0K01G-12101A / $250 / Replacement HLA's

INTAKE KEEPERS / KIA USA / (16) 0K954-12114 / $40 / Set of intake keepers to replace the exhaust side keepers on your FE3. Each keeper is two pieces, so you will either need 8 whole keepers, or 16 halves, just dont get confused and order less or more then you need.

VR6 OUTER SPRINGS / VW DEALER / (16) 021-109-623-P / $200 / Replace your outer valve springs with these VW units.

E34 M5 VALVE SPRINGS / BMW DEALER / (16) 11341315912 / $480 / Pricey because it comes with both inner and outer springs, not to mention its a BMW dealer item...

TIMING BELT TENSIONER / KIA USA / 0K973-12700A / $60 /

TIMING BELT TENSIONER SPRING / KIA USA / 0FE3N-12711A / $3 /

TIMING BELT IDLER PULLEY / KIA USA / 0K955-12730A / $50 /

CAMSHAFT SEALS / KIA USA / 0K013-10602 / $20 /


OTHER COSTS
REBUILD, DECKING, CHAMBER WORK, PORTING, ASSEMBLY, ETC / QUALITY MACHINE OR HEAD SHOP / $500-1000+++++ / Prices range for this kind of work. Porting is the most time consuming if its being done by a professional, therefore will shoot up the price of your head work if you decide on it. A simple head rebuild can be pretty cheap if youre not going for anything fancy, just replacing of worn parts and having the deck milled.

[discretelyelite]

i didnt even read it all yet, but you are the man!!! thanx for this awesome info. i for one, greatly appreciate the time you've put into this.

[matt89glturbo]

Hussey also makes a copper headgasket for it...adjustable cam gears, I've heard that a supra intake gear can be used, buit not hte exhaust as the FE3 exhaust gear is just the intake one turned upside down, but with a little imagination (and a drill bit) this can be fixed. I have not personally confirmed this, but I plan on it soon...found a pair on ebay for like 100 bucks...as for your little comment on the BMW springs being pricey b/c inner and outer and being BMW, it's solely BMW. If you go to the kia dealership you will find that they are sold the same wasy, and for the pair it's cheaper than just the outer of the VW even...but teh BMW ones would probably be the best

Also, you mention about only being 2 different cam profiles, I think that may be wrong. I'm pretty sure I have witnessed at least 3 different setups, maybe 4. I know mine seems to be special, first I've seen with a weaker profile on the exhaust side than the intake. A trick I've heard about also for getting a bit more power is use 2 exhaust cams, and flip one upside down on the intake side, but I have not tried it yet...

[vtec-this]

I know you can do it on a 1.8lBP

[mnmx6]

you said take the stock rotators out of the exhaust valves because of high RPM concerns...does that call for any durability issues with the exhaust valves, especially on turbo motors?

[DJ_JaKe]

so far no one has had any adverse effects that i am aware of.

[FRCFD6]

here's a couple pics of my build (ported/polished) FE head

enjoy..

[MzdaFrk]

has anyone found a Titanium Valve Spring/Retainer Combo that will work in the FE3 by chance.

Jake, Great Post! I am ordering alot of this stuff as we speak.

[MzdaFrk]

Valve springs
Will someone with more experience with the FE3 head let me know of this will be a good buy for the FE3 head, they are Ferrea Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers... Thanks (just want to know if they are overkill, if there is such a thing)

[discretelyelite]

those look really nice but thats REALLY expensive....from what I understand the oem stockers should be sufficient. I think 700 dollars can be spent more effectively on something else. But if you've got money to burn , you'll never float a valve, lol.

[MzdaFrk]

I am going for 10k rpm, if I can get Jake to tell me the secret... (jake I will buy you a cold one ) That is why I am looking at those.

[discretelyelite]

I believe his friend Eric is going to tell us how to go soild lifter when he has time

[Dutch]

the retainers from a VW VR6 valve dont fit the FE3 valve.
been there done that...

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread...versized+300zx (So Your proably wonder why evo hasn't posted in awhile)