Warning for those changing valve springs on assembled engines.

**fredio54** · 2-8-07, 18:09

I recently swapped all my springs for modified VR6 springs (NO, they wont fit correctly without machining). I did it by making an air fitting for the spark plug hole, and filling each cylinder with compressed air to hold the valves up while working on them. May I recommend that you are not lazy like me, and bother to take the cambelt off, and turn the engine to TDC before doing each cylinder. I didnt want to go to that trouble, and it almost cost me a head pull.

one of the retainers was sticking, and to free it i was hitting my spring remover with a hammer to break the stuck parts free. the initial impact on one hit gave the valve a shift, came free, popped out the collet, and prompty the valves fell into the cylinder most of the way. they were stuck by the dirt on the stem and the stem seals. i managed to pull them both back up with two magnets and all was well again. you'd think i'd learn....

but no

next cylinder, with reduced pressure to make sure the spanner against the ground didnt undo the pulley nut with the torque from the compressed air, i pushed one valve down with the rag i was cleaning in the hole with. the other one fell down too. lady luck was on my side again this time, and as they slid down, the step for the collets was enough to jam them at the very bottom of the guides. phew (wipes forehead). and i managed to turn the engine enough to push them back up slowly and gently without doing anything with the cam belt.

should have grabbed a pic for your amusement.

Moral of the story : DONT BE LAZY :-) and if you are going to be lazy, put cable ties around the heads of the valves such that they cant drop in if you should happen to bump them...

i'll post pics of the grinding required to make the vr6 springs fit in the original mal fitment thread. in summary though, put the seat from under the springs on it, and grind it down around the edge at a shallow angle till the bottom is the same size as the seat, or slightly smaller. test fit to ensure proper seating.

enjoy float free motoring

fred.

**SixSick6** · 2-8-07, 22:17

It's funny how things come full circle like that. You skip out on one part because you don't want to go through the effort and it comes back to bite you in the booyay anyways.

PS- If you don't want to bother taking the timing belt off and rotating the piston to TDC, use rope inside the cylinder. Use enough to fill it up and when you're done, pull it out.

**cam22t** · 2-9-07, 2:46

The rope trick can lead to another problem, so just be careful you dont get a knot in the rope.

**fredio54** · 2-9-07, 5:46

yeah, i know about the rope trick, though, i hadnt thought about a knot forming :-) i quite like the compressed air thing. i didnt have an issue when i had 100psi in there, only when i dropped it to 30 to prevent it undoing the pulley nut.

ps sick, you have to take the cambelt partly off anyway. there are no rocker shafts to whip out here :-)

**fredio54** · 2-9-07, 6:19

the tool i used to put compressed air in, made from a sparkplug, and an air fitting just welded together. may i recommend using a piece of steel pipe in between to give the air hose more room, and make the need to use needle nose pliers to take it off again irrelevant :

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/102_3203.jpg

and the pics of the ground down springs for completeness :

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/000_0122.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/000_0123.jpg

fred.

**carcenomy** · 2-9-07, 7:34

Y'know Fred, just an idea, throwing it out there...

If you had some more fittings and old plugs, and more air lines, you coulda had all four pressurized... it can't rotate when all four are full of air, surely.

**fredio54** · 2-9-07, 15:13

i thought it too carcenomy, and yes, that would work really well. you may need a better compressor than my little 100 dollar super cheap special though. the leak down past the dry rings isnt insignifigant. the compressor runs about 1/3 duty cycle to keep up with one cylinder.

good call to post it up though :-)

fred.

**carcenomy** · 2-9-07, 23:06

You need a compressor like the old man's work compressor - it's a 17cfm Peerless (from Aussie) with a 5hp diesel! The thing vibrates so much that if you're using it in the shed, you need to run some exhaust flexi out the door and tie the bugger up, or it'll smoke you out and vibrate across the floor.

I've got a $100 Supercheap special too though, great for painting

**fredio54** · 2-10-07, 6:03

great for painting???????????? what? coffee cups? it doesnt have the flow to support a gun at full flight with a decent spray painter holding it. maybe a door or something, with some time between coats. but not a whole roof or bonnet or chassis, or main body of a car. not even close :-)

fred.

**fe3t b2200** · 2-10-07, 7:42

the valves cant fall into the cylinder completly as the hit the cylinder wall

**fredio54** · 2-10-07, 15:39

Thank you for being polite, however I just measured, and that is not true! :-)

fred.

**fe3t b2200** · 2-11-07, 7:21

dude i did not messure it i sat a stripped head on a stripped block with one inlet valve and one exhaust valve with no keepers ect directly after reading your post and tried it! they hit the bores!

**fredio54** · 2-11-07, 14:24

whatever...

**fe3t b2200** · 2-12-07, 4:13

whatever your self! i mean its not like i made all that effort just for you! its more that it no effort when i have heads including stripped ones and blocks

**fredio54** · 2-12-07, 5:27

fraud, fe3tb2200, daryl, whatever you are called, you are a waste of space. why lie. do you forget that i have several fe3s lying around stripped too? i am going to video the valve falling down the bores, with heaps of room to be even longer and still fall, and post it on you tube or G vid. i am going to make a personal reference to you in that video. your credibility is as low as when you ripped off the ozzys.

good night.

fred.

2-8-07, 18:09	#1 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	Warning for those changing valve springs on assembled engines. I recently swapped all my springs for modified VR6 springs (NO, they wont fit correctly without machining). I did it by making an air fitting for the spark plug hole, and filling each cylinder with compressed air to hold the valves up while working on them. May I recommend that you are not lazy like me, and bother to take the cambelt off, and turn the engine to TDC before doing each cylinder. I didnt want to go to that trouble, and it almost cost me a head pull. one of the retainers was sticking, and to free it i was hitting my spring remover with a hammer to break the stuck parts free. the initial impact on one hit gave the valve a shift, came free, popped out the collet, and prompty the valves fell into the cylinder most of the way. they were stuck by the dirt on the stem and the stem seals. i managed to pull them both back up with two magnets and all was well again. you'd think i'd learn.... but no next cylinder, with reduced pressure to make sure the spanner against the ground didnt undo the pulley nut with the torque from the compressed air, i pushed one valve down with the rag i was cleaning in the hole with. the other one fell down too. lady luck was on my side again this time, and as they slid down, the step for the collets was enough to jam them at the very bottom of the guides. phew (wipes forehead). and i managed to turn the engine enough to push them back up slowly and gently without doing anything with the cam belt. should have grabbed a pic for your amusement. Moral of the story : DONT BE LAZY :-) and if you are going to be lazy, put cable ties around the heads of the valves such that they cant drop in if you should happen to bump them... i'll post pics of the grinding required to make the vr6 springs fit in the original mal fitment thread. in summary though, put the seat from under the springs on it, and grind it down around the edge at a shallow angle till the bottom is the same size as the seat, or slightly smaller. test fit to ensure proper seating. enjoy float free motoring fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

2-9-07, 2:46	#3 (permalink)
cam22t Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Brisbane, Australia iTrader: (1)	The rope trick can lead to another problem, so just be careful you dont get a knot in the rope.
	89 MX6. 4WS. FE DOHC Turbo. Garrett GT2876r Turbo. Wiesco Forgies. EMS 8860 ECU. 3 Inch Exhaust. Torsen Diff. 2500lb RX7 Clutch. 18 inch Rays Sebring ITC-S wheels. Cusco Camber Plates and Coilovers. Bosch 044 Pump. 750cc Injectors. 12.1 @ 116mph. 425hp (317kw) atw's http://au.youtube.com/user/cam22t

2-9-07, 5:46	#4 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	yeah, i know about the rope trick, though, i hadnt thought about a knot forming :-) i quite like the compressed air thing. i didnt have an issue when i had 100psi in there, only when i dropped it to 30 to prevent it undoing the pulley nut. ps sick, you have to take the cambelt partly off anyway. there are no rocker shafts to whip out here :-)
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

2-9-07, 6:19	#5 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	the tool i used to put compressed air in, made from a sparkplug, and an air fitting just welded together. may i recommend using a piece of steel pipe in between to give the air hose more room, and make the need to use needle nose pliers to take it off again irrelevant : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/102_3203.jpg and the pics of the ground down springs for completeness : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/000_0122.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/000_0123.jpg fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

2-9-07, 7:34	#6 (permalink)
carcenomy Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Invercargill, New Zealand Age: 23 iTrader: (0)	Y'know Fred, just an idea, throwing it out there... If you had some more fittings and old plugs, and more air lines, you coulda had all four pressurized... it can't rotate when all four are full of air, surely.
	Moderator - one who arbitrates Dictator - one ruling absolutely and often oppressively Contrary to popular belief, these are not the same things...

2-8-07, 22:17	#2 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	It's funny how things come full circle like that. You skip out on one part because you don't want to go through the effort and it comes back to bite you in the booyay anyways. PS- If you don't want to bother taking the timing belt off and rotating the piston to TDC, use rope inside the cylinder. Use enough to fill it up and when you're done, pull it out.

2-9-07, 15:13	#7 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	i thought it too carcenomy, and yes, that would work really well. you may need a better compressor than my little 100 dollar super cheap special though. the leak down past the dry rings isnt insignifigant. the compressor runs about 1/3 duty cycle to keep up with one cylinder. good call to post it up though :-) fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

2-9-07, 23:06	#8 (permalink)
carcenomy Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Invercargill, New Zealand Age: 23 iTrader: (0)	You need a compressor like the old man's work compressor - it's a 17cfm Peerless (from Aussie) with a 5hp diesel! The thing vibrates so much that if you're using it in the shed, you need to run some exhaust flexi out the door and tie the bugger up, or it'll smoke you out and vibrate across the floor. I've got a $100 Supercheap special too though, great for painting
	Moderator - one who arbitrates Dictator - one ruling absolutely and often oppressively Contrary to popular belief, these are not the same things...

2-10-07, 6:03	#9 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	great for painting???????????? what? coffee cups? it doesnt have the flow to support a gun at full flight with a decent spray painter holding it. maybe a door or something, with some time between coats. but not a whole roof or bonnet or chassis, or main body of a car. not even close :-) fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

2-10-07, 7:42	#10 (permalink)
fe3t b2200 Join Date: May 2006 Location: palmy north, new zealand Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	the valves cant fall into the cylinder completly as the hit the cylinder wall

2-10-07, 15:39	#11 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	Thank you for being polite, however I just measured, and that is not true! :-) fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

2-11-07, 7:21	#12 (permalink)
fe3t b2200 Join Date: May 2006 Location: palmy north, new zealand Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	dude i did not messure it i sat a stripped head on a stripped block with one inlet valve and one exhaust valve with no keepers ect directly after reading your post and tried it! they hit the bores!

2-11-07, 14:24	#13 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	whatever...
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

2-12-07, 4:13	#14 (permalink)
fe3t b2200 Join Date: May 2006 Location: palmy north, new zealand Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	whatever your self! i mean its not like i made all that effort just for you! its more that it no effort when i have heads including stripped ones and blocks

2-12-07, 5:27	#15 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	fraud, fe3tb2200, daryl, whatever you are called, you are a waste of space. why lie. do you forget that i have several fe3s lying around stripped too? i am going to video the valve falling down the bores, with heaps of room to be even longer and still fall, and post it on you tube or G vid. i am going to make a personal reference to you in that video. your credibility is as low as when you ripped off the ozzys. good night. fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?