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#46 (permalink) |
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finished a few things off, and drew up a tow bar design, and the last of the reinforcements for the tray. have decided to shift the number plate back further, as upon mounting the tray back on the ute chassis, it was only just clear of the frame, and hows it supposed to swing efficiently and be difficult to read if it keep hitting the chassis and stopping???!!! ;-)
today s/s mounting hardware and 3mm ally sheet pieces for tail lights, guards, and the fuel/batt box are being ordered, and the steel to finish it off enough to wire, plumb and use. precisely 20 days left till track day. marginal... hmmmm fred. |
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#47 (permalink) |
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ok, so there it is with all the nuts glistening, and a good nut welded on with only slight meltage, and the first one in poor visibility that i struck the arc straight onto the nylon bit... flames etc... actually, a lot of flames, as i was intending to spray em with brake clean to cool them quickly, and of course, it was burning when i sprayed it... :-) i could see the flames then. welding mask made it all just a good show though.
note the meat behind the tail light surrounds :-) more to go in on the inside too. can you say "brake test" gotta love that. its been sooo long since i took one of those all the way :-) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#51 (permalink) |
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just picked up the ally panels for the fuel/batt box, guards, and rear lights. 2mm plate. i ordered 3mm, but this is heavy and strong enough.
also just picked up the 3/8 bundy (where did it get that name?) tube for the fuel feed. going to use the mazda clips bored out to fit, and run the stock 5/16 feed line as a return. picked up another merc nut this morning, and a couple of brass reducers, i'm not happy with them, but i can swap them on saturday morning if need be. should have two things by the end of this four day weekend : most of a working fuel system installed an exhaust manifold with a turbo hanging off of it that leaves finishing the fuel system this coming week, and doing the intake manifold then too (hopefully) megasquirt the weekend after, and i'll have a car that might go but definitely wont stop :-) fred. |
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#53 (permalink) |
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i'm going to cry. well, i'm not actually going to cry, but installing 3/8 bundy with the body on is ummm, not easy. whats wrong with car engineers, why dont they remember the word "straight"
just thought i'd sulk here before plugging in spot lights... i have to finish tonight so i can get the ends flared in the morning. if not, more things will be delayed. many parts of me hurt. fred. |
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#54 (permalink) |
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i've had more luck getting it in, but the paint on my chassis is looking a wee bit worse for wear. not quite like it did back here before i really started :
![]() or here when it was freshly painted with half a dozen coats of two pack laquer : ![]() ![]() ![]() its been refreshing looking back through those. i've come so far, and the end is in sight. i mustnt let it slip through my fingers. fred. |
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#56 (permalink) |
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bored out the brass fittings for the fuel filter, and the brass 5/16 - 3/8 steps too. buggered one, went through the side ever so slightly. bored to 6.5mm id for the steps, and took the hose tail on the filter out to 8mm id, and the outlet adapter out to 9.5mm id. its all gunna flow plenty of fuel with little restriction, and run out all at once when i forget the tank is a little low. never a lean moment. permatex 56521 thread sealant seals the fittings into the head of the filter, as it sealed the sensors into the head of the engine. on the outlet side, after the 9.5, it goes to 11mm and then 12.2, and then 16mm id (5/8) down to the bosch 910. out of that in 3/8 straight into the surge tank, and back to the tank via a step in 1/4 to create a residual pressure inside the surge tank, and make life easy for the 044. the return from the front under the cab is through 5/16 line, until the tray, and then in 3/8 via a bored step to back to the surge tank. in this way, there will never be a dry moment :-)
now, how to prime such a large volume? hmmm fred. |
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#57 (permalink) |
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LESSON 9934784332 :
never trust a rubber pulley! use the keyway being vertical to determine TDC. if your outer pulley section should turn relative to the inner, you will be left [shizzle] out of luck. today i realligned the timing belt twice. it was correct before i started. one of my pulleys was crooked, this really upset me after shrink fitting the 36-1 into the other, i found that tdc didnt point at tdc when the engine was at tdc (according to the freshly realligned wrongly cams) fortunately the allignment of the 36-1 was correct... so i did the sensible thing and here is the result : ![]() that wont [fizzle] with me again!! ;-) now onto more successful things : the merging of two pieces of iron/steel with a 0.25mm in 100mm interference (should have only had about 0.1mm interference) ![]() and the mounting of it to the engine with black outer rim, and silver stripe/slot for timing. also the missing tooth happend to be correct when aligned with the TDC mark, so i can never miss now. ![]() ![]() ![]() on to the next thing.... fred. |
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#59 (permalink) |
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manifold day today, with a late start, i didnt finish, but by the end of it, i was feeling better about having a successful time stitching it together...
my internet is totally shot right now, so i'll probably upload the pics from work in the morning. gotta get on with megasquirt mods now... fred. |
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