Just a few for now "2.2l DOHC stroker"

[Dutch]

whoaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!
that looks sexxy as ... well pick sumthing..
djeeebus.
i like that.
i need to get off my a$$ and do something too.
looks great man!!

[lundgren420]

Well tonight I installed the engine mounts and modified the throttle lever to clear the lifting mount. The pictures aren’t very clear due to taking them with my razor.


By lundgren420000, shot with RAZRV3xx at 2008-05-06

The power steering pump and lines went in nicely without issue, but the wastegate was an interference with the power steering pressure lines so I had to bent the return slightly and grind ever so slightly the top line mount pictures to illustrate.


By lundgren420000, shot with RAZRV3xx at 2008-05-06


By lundgren420000, shot with RAZRV3xx at 2008-05-06


By lundgren420000, shot with RAZRV3xx at 2008-05-06


By lundgren420000, shot with RAZRV3xx at 2008-05-06

The overall height is nice and clear so it doesn’t look like I will have to cut the hood to fit either.


By lundgren420000, shot with RAZRV3xx at 2008-05-06

Man i got LUCKY on clearance with the wg and downpipe, as you can tell i wont have A/C but i dont need it any way (good way to loose weight durring summer : )Well that’s it for tonight. Later.

[bpt323]

nice update & i like the hood clearance too!

[fredio54]

Lunde, what's the story with the strange contraption you have on your turbine outlet?

I can see a Vband clamp, but the top of the half V that isn't the turbo looks to be
A too wide
B too small a diameter

and what is all that other stuff after that?

[lundgren420]

That my friend is a 4.5" v-band flange that has a piece of 4" x 1/2" mechanicle tubing pressed into it. I had to turn the mechanicle tubing a little on a belt sander to get it to fit but it saved me $140 as apposed to having a flange turned at a machine shop. I left enough of the tubing sticking out to weld all three surfaces together. I still have a little work to do to it and dont know if i want to try and roll the edge of the flange to get it down to 4.4" or leave it alone. I still have to weld the v-band, mechanicle tubing and 3" exhaust bend together. Mabe later this week. By the way when tightened up the two surface mate very well and i dont forsee a leak if i leave the v-band alone.

[fredio54]

OK, so basically the most bullet proof warp free vband ever? lol

so long as the flange has a taper on both halves and the clamp tightens properly with enough threads in, you can't miss :-)

Interesting.

Get on with it then! :-p

[lundgren420]

ya it has the correct taper.

[lundgren420]

Well I finally have a full week off and cant wait to see progress. The first couple of days will probably be just preping arnd repairing the probe for transplant. Then i will install the engine, havethe exhaust installed, install the MS, and finally set up a base map to get it to the tunner. We will see how this next week goes.

[lundgren420]

This is a few of the pigtales i ordered from the Ford Fuel Injection company i suggested in one or more of my other posts.


By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

This is the turbo setup after a little ceramic coating to the down pipe and exhaust housing (Isn't it pretty)

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Reverse side

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Pluged boost controle solenoid.

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Painted crank trigger wheel affixed to the crank pulley also ported slightlt the IM for the Mustang TB.

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

And from a different angle.

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Crank pulley attached and marked.

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

I think it will work

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Dissy block off plate and temporary coil mounting.

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Nice front shot.

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

And side

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

And rear

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Oil drain line attached.

By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

Thanks Fredio54 for the idea and great shots of your bracket and sensor. This made it simpler to build this bracket than it could have been. Although it was still a two and a half hour process to make sure it was correct and gapped properly with each tooth. I ended up with an average .875 mm gap.

By lundgren420000 at 2008-07-06



By lundgren420000, shot with HP Photosmart E427 at 2008-07-06

By lundgren420000 at 2008-07-06
Feast on theese for now. When i get back from lunch i will put some descriptions to them. Later.

[Zach]

Vibrations aren't going to be an issue for you are they in regards to the 36-1 wheel and sensor? A bad bump and the wheel looks like it could/will eat up your sensor

[fredio54]

Originally Posted by Zach

Vibrations aren't going to be an issue for you are they in regards to the 36-1 wheel and sensor? A bad bump and the wheel looks like it could/will eat up your sensor

They have to be tight to function. 0.5mm or so is normal. Steel that thick doesn't tend to flex a lot from vibrations at sub sonic speeds that engines reach either :-)

Lunde, your oil drain, it looks like it goes really low before going into the sump. Tell me it enters above high tide mark? Tell me also that you can shorten it up and make it a little more direct and enter the sump on a downward angle? Finally, tell me you don't have a restrictor in those lines? Sweet :-)

Fred.

[rebel2k4]

Originally Posted by lundgren420

OK enough about the honda engine the point of the comparrison was to show the durability of mazda rods not discuss the gieneoligy of honda engines, drop it. Whewww I feel better know.

The mazda rod you showed is no more "durable." It is larger to compensate for the longer stroke and larger piston, and that is the only reason. Ever seen a KL rod? It's a motor made by mazda, a very good one no less, and the rods are tiny. You have to remember, as fred said, cars are engineered with a certain goal in mind. Ive read the engineering overview article on K series motors, and their reasoning behind small rods was lighter rotational mass for better throttle response.

Or how about sport bikes? NO one can argue those motors aren't engineering masterpieces. My gixxer redlines at 16k and makes 120 hp out of a .6L motor and runs on pump gas. That would be the equivalent to your Fe3 stroker making 440 hp N/a on pump gas by hp/displacement. I just watched a turbo busa dyno and put 259 whp down on 8 psi non intercooled at my local dyno on pump gas. That is out of a 1.3L, no less. Stock internals and going through a massive dune buggy drivetrain.

But on a different note, looking good. See a lot of people are jumping the holset bandwagon these days. I ought to take a pic of the new turbo I got to replace my HY35.

[Zach]

Originally Posted by fredio54

They have to be tight to function. 0.5mm or so is normal. Steel that thick doesn't tend to flex a lot from vibrations at sub sonic speeds that engines reach either :-)

Fred.

Good to know

[lundgren420]

Originally Posted by Zach

Good to know

Tolerance is supposed to be between 1.0mm and .75mm.

Also Fred, yes the oil feed is unrestricted. Also the oil draion is a little below the high tide mark but when its running it is going to still drain. Also yes i am giong to shorten the oil drain line once the exhaust is finnished, I need to find a good place to rout it so it doesn't melt.

[lundgren420]

Unfortunatly though the swap didn't happen this past week. Did to mutch fishing and lounging. The Probe did get preped and later this week i will drain the fluids and remove all hoses. After that all that is needed is removin the axles and motormounts. Then pop she is out.