How about 13" willwood slotted rotor and 4 piston from Corksport. $1200 in breaks is a little steep though. I have a brand spanking new set of front and rear caliper thought, but i greatly appreciate the information. The stopping is not so much of an issue. I am confident in the factory calipers and rotors. They have surprised me several times. The only problem with the PGT was the extra weight made them seem less effective. I am however going to lighten the car down substantionally.
Copy of the email. Pricing is 3 years old.
Hello, Here is what we have available,
Stainless Steel brake line kit $89
Front cross drilled or slotted brake rotors $179 pair
Rear cross drilled or slotted brake rotors $209 pair
We have a 4 piston wilwood brake kit available as well for $1298
You have to run a 17 inch wheel to clear the calipers though.
Thanks
Last edited by lundgren420 : 4-15-09 at 12:31.
Reason: added information from corksport.
Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....
do NOT just upgrade the front, I'm sure gavin will step in and agree if he is within ear shot. At the least getting balance will be difficult and also if you really care, heat load will never match and will cause different bias at different driving paces... far from ideal.
Well Fred with the help of some "spare" load cells i plan on ballancing the weight distribution on the vehicle equally compared to the FSM. I know that i may have bitten off more than i can chew, but i love chalenges. Common Gavin, school me.What factors should i take into account, and what precautions should be observed.
Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....
How about 13" willwood slotted rotor and 4 piston from Corksport. $1200 in breaks is a little steep though. I have a brand spanking new set of front and rear caliper thought, but i greatly appreciate the information. The stopping is not so much of an issue. I am confident in the factory calipers and rotors. They have surprised me several times. The only problem with the PGT was the extra weight made them seem less effective. I am however going to lighten the car down substantionally.
Willwoods are weak you can get a nifty set of 14" rotors with billit 14 piston calipers.
Yes I said 14 piston calipers
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredio54
do NOT just upgrade the front, I'm sure gavin will step in and agree if he is within ear shot. At the least getting balance will be difficult and also if you really care, heat load will never match and will cause different bias at different driving paces... far from ideal.
Fred.
I agree but Todd of reidspeed might pop in to say otherwise.
He dose run very well with big front brakes and stock rears but in his world 99% of the time if he touches the brake pedal he's braking at maximum effort.
His setup proabably works perfect for his application but for a priamrily street car I think a good F/R ballance is critical.
I dont know if the 11" rears I run will fit a 1st gen spindle or not but it's something to consider.
96 MX-6 full exhaust A/C delete spoiler delete probe wheels and a turbo in the worx. 01 626 brake's98 626 sway bar Altima rear sway bar links.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2934576
90 pontiac transam. 350 TPI motor new 24# injectors. Rebuilt trans. lots to come.
On a black top circuit the rear brakes are pretty marginal, but things change on the road. More grip you have, higher the load shifting to front will be; less work for rears. When the surface friction lowers, the load shift to front will decrease, and rear braking effort increases. On gravel (or snow and ice for the people living in colder climate) the difference can be quite a bit.
1988 626 GT Wagon, 2.0 DOHC Turbo | 1992 Toyota Carina e GLi | 1991 626 GLX Hatch AWD 2.2l
He dose run very well with big front brakes and stock rears but in his world 99% of the time if he touches the brake pedal he's braking at maximum effort.
Me too, so what? you still need it to be right, and more importantly, you need it to be the same red hot and dead cold. That latter part is the killer, who wants their first lap to be heaps slower than the rest??
Quote:
His setup proabably works perfect for his application but for a priamrily track car I think a good F/R ballance is critical.
Fixed.
Lowering is another factor. Lower = more rear with all else equal.
Yet another factor is rear life. If there is a gross difference the rear will run a LOT hotter (I've had my rears smoking with a balanced setup, let alone a front heavy one) and therefore wear out much more quickly.
Take the turbo silvia as an example... same rear as the non-turbo model, but much bigger fronts. One track day and the rears are at the backing plate, fronts are still going strong... (same pad compound). Nissan screwed up there... all the skylines have bigger rears too.
If you just want bling, do whatever, if you want FAST, do it right.
WTF Fred? I was suggesting to Lund that he SHOULD Get larger rears to compliment his fronts so whats with the pointless criticisim?
If you have a problem with how Todd sets up his race car's brakes go bother him. Ofcourse he out brakes everyone in his class and has been very successful so i dont know that he'll trust your "knowledge" over his collection of trophies.
Damn Lund that rust sucks lol. I'll trade your probes oxidation for my Firebirds any time though
Last edited by ls six : 4-16-09 at 11:20.
96 MX-6 full exhaust A/C delete spoiler delete probe wheels and a turbo in the worx. 01 626 brake's98 626 sway bar Altima rear sway bar links.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2934576
90 pontiac transam. 350 TPI motor new 24# injectors. Rebuilt trans. lots to come.
WTF Fred? I was suggesting to Lund that he SHOULD Get larger rears to compliment his fronts so whats with the pointless criticisim?
That wasn't at all clear, and, where was the criticism? There was only clarification and reinforcement that just because Todd (whoever the f*** he is) can make it work FOR HIM, it doesn't mean you or I or Lunde could...
Your statement that it was critical on a street car implies that it isn't critical on a race car. This is a false assertion whether it was intentional or not.
Quote:
If you have a problem with how Todd sets up his race car's brakes go bother him.
None whatsoever, in fact, your description may not even represent how it really is. Furthermore you didn't mention the style of racing which could make the discussion redundant anyway.
Quote:
Ofcourse he out brakes everyone in his class and has been very successful so i dont know that he'll trust your "knowledge" over his collection of trophies.
Give it a rest, maaaaattteee.... or get laid. Or both :-)
more progress this weekend. We removed the exsisting break hardware, and rusted cables, and replaced them. Along with working on 3 other vehicles on sunday.
My new helper hard at it. Breaking knuckles with the best of them.
When they were done for the night, they had to pose. Can you tell wich one was actually working .
Next is the cutting. Also we decided to get rid of the fuel tank and go with a fuel cell. Weight and age factors. Also i will cut out the cancer and prep the patces.
Last edited by lundgren420 : 4-22-09 at 17:11.
Reason: Saving Fred's ram.
Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....
I agree ...I think a good F/R ballance is critical.
Yeah I can see where you might have been confused
And no certain aspects of brake ballance are not nearly as critical in a race car (any race car) as they are in a street car. If you understood that balance is dynamic you would know why.
Your pinch welds look rather crispy there dude, are they more solid than they look?
Are you cutting the replacement pieces from a donor or forming them your self?
96 MX-6 full exhaust A/C delete spoiler delete probe wheels and a turbo in the worx. 01 626 brake's98 626 sway bar Altima rear sway bar links.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2934576
90 pontiac transam. 350 TPI motor new 24# injectors. Rebuilt trans. lots to come.
I dont plan on the car making it through the summer. I will try to fix as much as i can as we go. The engine will then find a new home in a better chassis. Possibly a MSP, RX7, or MX5. This is due to the aftermarket support being so week for frist gen PGT's and MX6's. You guys understand.
Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....
Definitely Keep in mind though that the 3rd gen Protege is a direct evolution of the GE chassis so most of whats available for that platform will work with the 93-97 cars and many things will even work with the GD.
7's and Miatas are great cars with a lot of support and potential but if you stick with the FWD platforms I'll have a comprehensive guide available eventualy that will outline all the various parts swapping thats possible with these cars. It goes a long way towards making up for our lack of an aftermarket, especialy when we're able to take from other cars aftermerkets lol.
96 MX-6 full exhaust A/C delete spoiler delete probe wheels and a turbo in the worx. 01 626 brake's98 626 sway bar Altima rear sway bar links.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2934576
90 pontiac transam. 350 TPI motor new 24# injectors. Rebuilt trans. lots to come.
While lundgren420 hasnt complained, I feel that this is a good point to interject that your "discussion" of the merits of this or that braking system is closer to a pissing match than actual useful (dispassionate) information. Lets keep the noise down a bit in lundgren420s thread.
If it is that lundgren420 is gleaning some useful information from your banter, then ill just add this.... Theres a lot of simple dynamics but complex interactions with the braking system. Not all is as it seems. Keep this in mind when you look at the braking system(and it is a "system").
The 1st gen and 2nd gen have a very different brake bias. What works for one, doesnt necessarily work(work as well) for the other.
With respect to Todd, there is a LOT that not readily apparent about his setup. Again, not all is as it seems. His setup works, but probably not for the reasons you think it does ... and thats key isnt it? If you dont know why something works, then you might be getting mislead by your assumptions.
Gavin, do us a favour and put no DSL in the title, lunde should pull his finger out and resize them or use thumbs... it's 50% wider than my 20" at the moment... not cool IMO, least not without a warning.
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you can get a nifty set of 14" rotors with billit 14 piston calipers.
98 626 sway bar Altima rear sway bar links.
