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Old 9-10-08, 15:35   #151 (permalink)
STW
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Well, I hope the engine won't eat them in one bite.... though I haven't heard from them in a while either :grr: I only made the order in April.


The flywheel looks like this now. And looking at it, I realize that there is a danger the unbroken part of the rim might push the clutch slightly open. Damn.



I think I'm going for VG30DTT exhaust valves... Subaru's are bit too big.

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 9-10-08, 17:25   #152 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STW View Post
And looking at it, I realize that there is a danger the unbroken part of the rim might push the clutch slightly open.
Can you explain more, I don't understand.

ps, realise, not realize, you are in Europe after all ;-)

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Old 9-10-08, 20:05   #153 (permalink)
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how are the VG30dett valves in comparison to FE3's??? specs?
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Old 9-10-08, 21:29   #154 (permalink)
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The Nissan VG30 valvetrain is a direct bolt on.

Use the 34mm and the 29.5 mm, need cut the std seats to match

Racing Engine Valves, Inc.*::*Stainless Race Valves*::*Sport Compact*::*Nissan*::*300ZX VG30*::*Exhaust Valves
Racing Engine Valves, Inc.*::*Stainless Race Valves*::*Sport Compact*::*Nissan*::*300ZX VG30*::*Intake Valves
Racing Engine Valves, Inc.*::*Titanium Retainers*::*Sport Compact*::*Nissan*::*300ZX (vg30)
I don't see the page for the for the spring but they sell it

I use the 35mm in and the 31.5mm ex in my head.
The only thing that i change for the fit are the seats because my valves are OS
All this valvetrain is good for 10,000 rpm and 13 mm lift.

Specs of my cams:
10 mm lift
272 duration
solid lifters

Eric
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Old 9-29-08, 4:55   #155 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredio54 View Post
Can you explain more, I don't understand.

ps, realise, not realize, you are in Europe after all ;-)
The metal straps that hold the diaphragm and plate together overlaps a bit with the mating plane. Though it does look like the plate will never extend enough into the flywheel for the strap to make contact with the flywheel.


About the valves, there are ever so slight differences but should work OK. Nominal shank diameter for a Mazda valve is 5.95 and 6.00 for Nissan. However, with 350k km on valve guides, I expect them to be quite large enough to fit 6.00 without too much problems.

I'm trying to avoid solid lifters as far as possible, as underbuckets are always a bit of hassle and as long the HLA's do work, it's one step less regardless of how much mqintenance the rest of the engine requires.

Still no word on the pistons and I'm getting really anxious over them. I think I could post some photos of the finished VICS plenum but there's not much to see besides that.

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 9-29-08, 5:09   #156 (permalink)
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Update; pistons should arrive within this week

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 9-29-08, 15:23   #157 (permalink)
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I had zero issues with my clean HLAs at 7500 thrashing it hard :-)

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Old 10-3-08, 19:32   #158 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredio54 View Post
I had zero issues with my clean HLAs at 7500 thrashing it hard :-)
Good to hear

Rod manufacturer promised the new rods will take 7500-8000RPM easily even with 94mm stroke. Fred pointed out that piston friction will play no small part at such engine speeds either but I'm hoping the Xylan coating and some oil squirters will take care of that (well, engine's not going to see 8k for any extended periods, that's for sure). These rods are just $990 more expensive than rods in the sabotaged bulk buy.

So it was a no show on the pistons this week too, perhaps early next week. Adjustable cam gears are hopefully not too far in the future either.

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 10-3-08, 20:08   #159 (permalink)
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adjustable cam gears were 50% paid with fidanza today
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Old 10-6-08, 14:33   #160 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpt323 View Post
adjustable cam gears were 50% paid with fidanza today
Excellent!

Meanwhile, (cue hallelujah choir) here's what I picked up today at mail:



I'm expecting about 3 weeks to get the stuff machined, but now the ball is rolling again!

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 10-6-08, 16:25   #161 (permalink)
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That is a beautiful piston man! You have good taste in engine parts :-)

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Old 10-6-08, 18:09   #162 (permalink)
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Heh, thanks!

The piston has plenty of neat little things, the xylan coating feels really slippery and there's an eztra groove between first and second compression ring, it should improve sealing a lot (according to manufacturer). Ah well, we'll see how well they perform once installed!

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 10-7-08, 2:14   #163 (permalink)
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what kinda specs did you call for with those pistons?? whats the story with the extra groove? is the xylan on the skirt??
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Old 10-7-08, 5:41   #164 (permalink)
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According to Wiseco FAQ:
Quote:
The accumulation of gases that get by the top ring can unseat it. A pressure groove delays this action. This is why today's recommendation is to keep the 2nd ring end-gap as large or larger than the top ring end-gap.
I think it'll be beneficial, and all the off-the-shelf Wiseco pistons have it.

Xylan indeed is the dark part in the skirt.

The specs were:

Bore 86.50mm
Compression height: 32mm (would've been 25mm if I had went for one-off rods to begin with)
Pin diameter: 22mm
dish: -18cc
Valve pocket depth 8mm
Valve included angle 45deg (actually 50, but who's counting...)
Xylan coating
lateral gas ports
Sealing groove
anti-detonation grooves
Target power 500hp

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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Old 10-23-08, 16:13   #165 (permalink)
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While waiting for the parts, here some updates on stuff done last summer, nothing really interesting, just random stuff.



An aluminium sports bottle, to be used as a new reservoir for the VICS actuator.


A nice surprise, machined threads. I was expecting some weak rolled stuff.


Here is the VICS opened up. I hope the bellmouths won't disturb the flow too much into short runners.



Denso stick coils from a destroyed Toyota engine, a 1.3-liter(!) 2NZ from a Yaris Verso (poor thing got hydrolocked). Unofrtunately they won't work with my current setup, I'm guessing my old Hestec is too weak to drive them. A signal amplifier could help; the engine starts fine and idles for a moment, then starts to splutter, runs very rough and fouls the plugs good. If anyone has deeper knowledge of these things, I'm listening. I understood they have smart dwell control; they use ECU dwell while it stays within parameters, and switch to self-determined dwell if ECU dwell is out of range or the circuit is overheating for whatever reason.

626 '88 Wagon, turbo 2.0 DOHC


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