2.2 Stroker DOHC by STW

[shwine617]

lookin good! You got a lot of cleaning to do... man, I hate that part..lol
I have a similar half inch socket. I removed the head lots of time and luckily I haven't broke it yet (knock on wood) but its a snap-on, so it would be warrantied anyway.
fe5a! your lucky! nice cams.
why didn't you just use your trans bolts to mount it to the engine stand or is your engine still in the car?
well good luck with it, I wanna see some more pics when it comes all the way apart

[STW]

I got the motor open tonight, the only bolt that was REALLY tight on was the first one, the rest were normal. The head might be warped, but that's really the least of my problems right now;



This is.


Anyone for sleeves bulk buy... I have too much effort and money put into it, I'm not going to get stuck with little details like a bad block.

[fredio54]

She'll be right mate! It'll buff out ;-)

:-( you might find that it's not all that deep.

sleeves would be sweet though.

stroker will have a part number for us soon hopefully :-)

fred.

[shwine617]

man that sucks, did someone leave the plugs out? that thing really was in the bottom of a lake. You can try to clean it and hone it, it might not be as bad as it looks. But if it is, then a .020 overbore should clean it up and leave enough meat left. If I ever have to overbore mine, i would only do .020, anymore an I would scrap the block or give it to an NA guy. how the crank and stuff?
good luck with it

[STW]

Crank was fine, I'll get them (FE and R2) to a machinist soonish to get the R2 to fit. Piston #1 had some signs of slight seizing, but I really can't care less. Cams are perfect. Head wasn't looking that hot either, but nothing much to worry about. The valves are probably done for and the guides too, but I was going to replace those anyway.


Not very pretty! Almost everything is going to be replaced here though, so no big issues here..



Nothing flashy in the bottom. Cast crank and no braces.


Taking the crank gear off wasn't as bad job as I had thought, a wooden brush handle jammed between the gear and the sheath did half of the job and a 3 feet torque wrench the rest.


The oil pump was black with grime before a healthy dose of degreaser. CRC Bräkleen is the [shizzle]!


Here's the crank coming off, the oil squirters should be visible in the near side of the cylinders.


And this was the showstopper for today, I hope not for good Those two cylinders are now soaked with molybden sulphide penetration oil, and tomorrow they'll get a bit of acid treatment. Hopefully the damage is uniform and superficial.

I tested the HLA's too. 3 of them were good, rest were like sponge.

Never thought it would be a quick job but the deal with the cylinders really bummed me Crank, rods and pistons are all going to go, and the head was going to receive a full rebuild too, why the most damaged part had to be the one I didn't plan to do much anything with

[fredio54]

Originally Posted by STW

the shame of it is that these pics clearly show the motor was in good health before you put it away :-( oil pickup and bottom end are nice and clean, and the water pump cavity is not rusty coloured at all. bugger about the rest.

Taking the crank gear off wasn't as bad job as I had thought, a wooden brush handle jammed between the gear and the sheath did half of the job and a 3 feet torque wrench the rest.

on the autos its really easy, they put hose in the flexplate for you to stick things through to keep it still. on the manual you can just wedge a long handle screwdriver into the ring gear and one of the two wings of the block.

The oil pump was black with grime before a healthy dose of degreaser. CRC Bräkleen is the [shizzle]!

As much as i love brakeclean and use it extensively, i'd say its not really a degreaser in the traditional understood meaning of the term, it is generally, but its job is to take the residue away and leave no oil. degreasers job is to disolve inch thick sludge on your block etc. its just a happy coincidence that brakeclean does that pretty well too :-) (degreaser is usually water soluble too. btw, one of the major ingredients in brakeclean? : Toluene! Toluene is the shizzle i tell you :-)

Those two cylinders are now soaked with molybden sulphide penetration oil, and tomorrow they'll get a bit of acid treatment.

you'd best put that brakeclean to good use removing that oil before putting the acid in. i recommend coating the pistons tops with vasoline or similar before hand too. not to protect them, but because the ally will use up the acid well before it gets a chance to eat the rust.

good luck!

[STW]

I tried a variety of poisons to get the pistons out, but they aren't ready just yet to come out, I'm hoping perhaps tomorrow... The damage doesn't look that bad anymore. It sure as hell is going to need a .5mm overbore, but that's okay.

I also took today the flywheel to the shop as a pattern for an 8-bolt aluminum flywheel. It's going to be so very cool They already have a very similar crown style flywheel for an E30 BMW engine, and there will be no shortage of friction surface replacements! Also all the threads have helicoils, so they won't strip easily either. And it will have the 60-2 trigger wheel setup too.

The guy also asked if I was interested in adjustable billet cam gears, he said he wasn't sure if they had them ready made but if I delivered one they could get the measurements out of it and make a set. They're quite a bit more expensive though than those in the bulk buy would be.

[fredio54]

stw, once you clear the path, you need to try to free the rings, there are tricks for that, but i forget what they are. they will be stuck in the groves and holding it still, rusted to the bore (being steel based themselves). because you dont need the pistons, you could give them a shunt, or put a crank and fly back on for the starter to do it for you.

[STW]

Would these be the rings? :P


Good thing they're fragile as hell...

Finally got the pistons free, Took a lot of chemicals and some manual labor.



Cylinder #2 didn't look damaged badly. Theres some pitting near the piston BDC position, but it isn't that deep. However, the cylinder #3...


Pitting looks really deep, and it's all over the swept area. I just hope boring will cure it.

Finally, a photo of the block with the R2 crank on, just to keep spirits high!


Perfect fit! The counterweights didn't touch the pan, so that's definitely a nice turn.

[SixSick6]

Fred or STW- Have you thought about getting a billet oil pump gear? They're only around $100 and are custom machined for the stock pump.

[STW]

Hm, never heard of one, but I'm all ears...

[fredio54]

stw, those pits dont look toooo bad to me :-|

if you clean them out properly with acid maybe you can take an imprint with something and measure them accurately so you know where you are

sick : only required for HIGH rpm, if i ever go that way i'll consider it. ps, its a pair of gears, i forget what they are called.

fred.

[STW]

I guess I'll be wiser about the pitting next week when I take the block to a shop. I'm semi-seriously considering dryp sump (not as necessary in FWD), put the prices are kind of put down, over 1000USD for something that's not actually crucial and doesn't offer as much benefits in FWD is really stretching the budget. Iäve seen some VW Beetle dry sump pumps for under $800, but I wonder if they give enough flow for 16 HLA's and a turbo.

[fredio54]

I seriously wouldn't bother in a FWD. Have you ever seen the light on?

[STW]

Originally Posted by fredio54

I seriously wouldn't bother in a FWD. Have you ever seen the light on?

Well, not under conditions I'm willing to admit in public... but there are reasons other than steady oil supply, like enefits in crank case ventilation and in large oil capacity, also not having all the oil kept in a big low slung lump l is a definite bonus Besides that, you can install a heater much easier into reservoir and *theoretically* you can extend the time after which the engine still acts as warmed up with the tank wrapped in insulators.

But as said, the benefits with east-west engine are lot less than with north-south.