2.2 Stroker DOHC by STW

[fredio54]

I have to say, I'm with karri on this, possibly with a slight variation :

the flaps should stay such that at low revs all the air flows through the small ports and has good velocity and the correct resonance, but at higher revs rather than the air having to go down all four runners to get into one, if the roof was removed then it woulld have direct access. that combined with some nice radiusing (wouldnt bother fabbing bells for it, if you do that, build a whole new one) will make some sizable benefits indeed.

fred.

[STW]

Didn't mean to sound so rude there, sorry.

What I see as the biggest problems with VICS is the air needs first to make a tight turn; almost backwards into the chamber though there might be some resonance boost benefits though this. Then at the chamber, the flow must change direction to sideways motion, and there are other ports to disrupt the flow. Finally, the flow must make another tight change of direction heading back into open valve.

Also each port has to breath two ways and finally the chamber is somewhat tight, so there's lot of velocity to make things worse. The ports cannot be radiused on stock because that would create even greater disturbances in the flow out and over the port (and also it'd be quite expensive).

Thus in it's natural state I consider it more a balance between performance and labor costs, something that doesn't apply to project builds as much

[STW]

My fingers are ragged and aching,, I've been cleaning parts all evening...



Sorry I don't have a "before" shot, but I think most can guess a part that's seen over 350k km on the road doesn't look like that It's too early to think about surface finishing, but I'm inclined to go for wrinkle black with bare metal details a'la BMW M style.

The rod bulk buy is almost through! I CAN'T wait!

[fredio54]

I guess you are starting to get a feel for how much tooth brush time i've spent on my bits and pieces ;-)

[STW]

Originally Posted by fredio54

I guess you are starting to get a feel for how much tooth brush time i've spent on my bits and pieces ;-)

Indeed Toothbrush sized wire brush FTW...


Today was mostly cleaning and preparing stuff. I bathed the parts in alkaline for a bit more, the grime on the sump is damn persistent!



What's more important, I began cleaning the HLA's as Fred instructed in his excellent writeup (FE3 HLA cleaning procedure for more lift and power :-)). Few sharp slams on a table top made the piston loose, very easy! Service manual says the HLA's are not user serviceable and must not be opened. Pfffhhht....

Here's one opened.



Sludge and grime all over! What I did I first removed the free oil with brake cleaner, and then used an ultrasonic cleaner and very strong alkaline detergent to wash the parts. I let them rattle for six minutes, then dried them with a cloth and hot air gun. After that I gave them a healthy dose of CRC 5-56 to protect from any moisture left in the part.

Here are the parts cleaned:

There's not a trace of carbonization left and the tiny ball valve moves quite eagerly.

Here they are side by side again;



I first thought I needed to label the HLA's I cleaned, but obviously I don't have to...

[fredio54]

Nice work :-)

I have to say though, those weren't dirty at all! mine were solid filled, there was no oil left! lol. still, they don't have to be as bad as mine to cause the dreaded tick.

[DEFBOY35]

Originally Posted by fredio54

Nice work :-)

I have to say though, those weren't dirty at all! mine were solid filled, there was no oil left! lol. still, they don't have to be as bad as mine to cause the dreaded tick.

Ahh, I now have a good idea as to were the "ticking" is coming from!!!! every sportage i have ever heard has a tick to them!!!

[fredio54]

Ditto every FE3 in a mazda. Synthetic oil and regular changes with good filtration will keep them happy, but neglected maintenance and mineral oils will cause them to stop working right sooner or later.

Having said that, all injectors tick, and sometimes it's hard to tell if its that or the HLA's..

Fred.

[STW]

PArts are all pretty clean now, next I'm going to get working on this:



Valves are on pretty tight, it'll be a task to remove them. There are some pretty nasty deposits on them, and they are frozen on the guides anyway, so I think I'm going to replace all. 300ZX valves would be nice. Also, VR6 fitment is due.

[STW]

I took the block to the machine shop today. Not a good sign when a seasoned machinist goes "oh my god" seeing the cylinders If 0.5mm won't do, I'll need to source another block. I'll be wiser next week... I ordered the SR20DET pistons too.

Got the valves off too! Some where really tight, some fell off on their own. I think new guides are in order and the valves themselves...


There's no way in hell those could be ever used again.

Here's the block sans valves:


Valve guides protrude only by few mm into ports. Ports are too filled with oxidized stuff to say anything about the surface.

and finally, a first-ever subjective view of a spring compressor tool:


That piece of waste had so bad threads they froze up even without load... damn.

[fredio54]

how shagged are the guides? dohc heads rarely/never need guides...

[bpt323]

nothing a bit of buffing compound won't fix

[STW]

I'll need to have the guides checked. I took the crank to the machinist to have the oil pump flats machined and delivered the main bearing caps, I'll know how it went n a few days.

[PGTF2T]

it all looks good karri, this is going to be quite the build! im watching this thread closley ;-)

[fe3t b2200]

you will need to machine valve reliefs into the pistons its not hard i used a pair of old valves with some tool steel welded to them with extended stems and a old head with a electric drill at high speed lots of oil and a big cresent on the flats of the crack and turned it through tdc slowly as the tool cut the pistons. be sure to sharpent the tool steel correctly for alloy! ie not too sharp or you will have problems!