ITB NA FE3 Miata/MX5 thread hidden from us! ;-)

[fredio54]

http://www.racecommunity.org/forum/f...ts.asp?TID=702

Pretty cool build. The guy said he'd post up here (I think he did already in another thread) but I thought I'd beat him to it.

I want vids! (he said there was one in that thread, but I didn't see it, link it here if you do)

Fred.

[egonn]

Hi Fred!

Well here is the link "YouTube - Mazda miata FE3" sorry for the crappy image-quality.. and also youtube downscaling.. if you know of a site i could upload the real vid to i can do that!

Crappy camera but at least some proof of life and sound for my steady readers (@racecommunity.org)..

Hope you enjoy.. a translated thread will come soon..

[egonn]

Bump!


Post it! =D

[fredio54]

YouTube - Mazda miata FE3

[lundgren420]

Great job Egonn glad to see an individual gsxr throttle body FE3N in action finnaly. GREAT WORK. K++ applied

[M2cupcar]

I just found that on youtube last week - engine sounds awesome!

[egonn]

Originally Posted by M2cupcar

I just found that on youtube last week - engine sounds awesome!

Yes, have some finetuning left to do in "sound" but i'm getting there!..

I saw your fe3t-conversion during my studying fe3-stuff and must say i'm impressed that you got your hood intact.. .. well i could have done some adjustments but i just didn't feel like it.. i am abit curiouse to ask if you use the miata tranny or rx7-stuff?..

Have you done anything to help crank case evacuation in you miata?

[egonn]

Originally Posted by lundgren420

Great job Egonn glad to see an individual gsxr throttle body FE3N in action finnaly. GREAT WORK. K++ applied

yes.. it surprises me that so few have done this.. since i didn't find it that difficult to manufacture.. (although i let a friend, Robert Ajdén in the lancia-delta-community weld some of it for me!).. I have seen some cars with gsxr-bodies poping up lately though.. one golf and one 323v6..

[M2cupcar]

My hood is only intact because I shimmed the subframe ~7mm. Nearly all the V8 swaps do it without issue- and at a much greater distance. No doubt it could be done with a modded subframe, but that would increase the scope of work exponentially. I'm about easy - and outside of that, the swap is VERY easy IMO.

The cc pressure appears to be weak pcv valves. It's not a problem until I run more than ~9psi. I just need to get a proper GTX valve.

I'm running the bellhousing from the small truck trans bolted up to Miata/Mx5 box. I'm working on a solution using the big box from the turbo rx7 and bell from a bongo van (thanks Fred). The F8 block I have was an auto trans with flex plate, so I need to bolt up the original FEdohc flywheel, clutch and pp I have to see how it sits in relation to the input shaft on the trans. Once I get that resolved, I'll work up an adapter to put the ppf on the trans tail. - rob

shots of the OE clutch assembly thickness and the input shaft to flex plate distance with the rx box and bongo housing:

[fredio54]

that is SO doable!

machine a spacer for the pilot bearing, OR, find a bearing from a bearing supplier with a wider race or double race and use that. That bearing is only a guide really. Yes it sees some decent force at high rpm, but if you find a wide bearing and have it fully seated... it will be golden :-)

Get on with it!! oh, and you're welcome, thanks for the injectors! :-)

Fred.

[egonn]

Originally Posted by M2cupcar

My hood is only intact because I shimmed the subframe ~7mm. Nearly all the V8 swaps do it without issue- and at a much greater distance. No doubt it could be done with a modded subframe, but that would increase the scope of work exponentially. I'm about easy - and outside of that, the swap is VERY easy IMO.

The cc pressure appears to be weak pcv valves. It's not a problem until I run more than ~9psi. I just need to get a proper GTX valve.

I'm running the bellhousing from the small truck trans bolted up to Miata/Mx5 box. I'm working on a solution using the big box from the turbo rx7 and bell from a bongo van (thanks Fred). The F8 block I have was an auto trans with flex plate, so I need to bolt up the original FEdohc flywheel, clutch and pp I have to see how it sits in relation to the input shaft on the trans. Once I get that resolved, I'll work up an adapter to put the ppf on the trans tail. - rob

shots of the OE clutch assembly thickness and the input shaft to flex plate distance with the rx box and bongo housing:

I don't know much about that stuff but wouldn't it be better if you shortened the bell house.. since you want to keep the axel as short as possible to prevent it to woble in high revs..

[M2cupcar]

If the OE clutch/pp/flywheel assembly doesn't get the disk on the splines sufficiently, then the face of the bell will be milled in hopes that it will do the job. Of course everything you remove from the bell is going to also reduce its strength. I don't think 10mm would be an issue, hoping it won't take that much. But until I get everything in place I won't know. Still have a turbo to install first.

[egonn]

Originally Posted by M2cupcar

If the OE clutch/pp/flywheel assembly doesn't get the disk on the splines sufficiently, then the face of the bell will be milled in hopes that it will do the job. Of course everything you remove from the bell is going to also reduce its strength. I don't think 10mm would be an issue, hoping it won't take that much. But until I get everything in place I won't know. Still have a turbo to install first.

Oh.. that sounds good..

turbo?.. didn't you already had one installed?.. or is it an upgrade perhaps?


I've been thinking of my ITB's.

I have an idea to make variable length runners. Telescope-modell that is adjusted by a stepperengine or some other electrical servo. In its part cotrolled by the ecu and according to a predefined curve in relation to the rev.

This curve i thought i would "scientifically" get by measuring the AFR of different lengths with at logger and through the rev-registry. When i've gotten 5-10 lengths logged i can then put them in a diagram and will get my curve.

The basehypothesis in this is that whenever the pulses harmonize you will get a "boost" of air into the combustion chamber and that will show in the AFR.

It's also important that you don't have any autoadjust/closed loop-stuff activated so it won't mess with your logg-data.



The goal is to broaden the torque-curve so that you can get the best out of both worlds.. with long runners during low rpms and shorter runners the farther up your rpms you go.. I have thought of this since i realized that i lost some of my awesome low-end torque comparing ITB's with modified "stock"-intake.

[Nitrogen]

Well done!

That sound is amazing, just like a bike

[egonn]

No thoughts about my idea?.. (variable runner lengths)..