Okay, about a year of asking questions, reading and kicking rocks, I finally just decided to roll with it. Okay, I am using the F2 Crankshaft, and yes, Solomiata's info is correct. The cranks counter weights hit inside of the block on the cylinder bore. Since my Rotating Assembly is getting balanced anyway, ill turn the cranks counter weights down .120" on my lathe so it will fit without hitting anything. After reading numerous threads and solomiata's page countless times,i decided on what piston to rod combo to use. Im using VG30DETT pistons.. And i totally lucked up on this set i believe.
Vendor Name Probe Industries
Product Type Pistons
Product Model Sportsman Race Series - SRS
Engine Family NISSAN-INFINITI - 6 Cylinder
Material 2618-t61 Forged Aluminum
Base Bore (in) 3.425 (87.0mm)
Stroke (in) 3.270
Rod Length (in) 6.071
Compression Height (in) 1.255
Top Type Reverse Dome
Net Head Volume (cc) -4.1
Weight Without Pin (g) 300
Wrist Pin Diameter (in) 0.866
Wrist Pin Length (in) 2.250
Wrist Pin Weight (g) 65
Pin Lock Type Sgl Spiral
Ring Set # 14484-.50 - SWN30058-2
14484-1.0 - SWN30058-4
Top Ring Groove Size 1.2 mm
Second Ring Groove Size 1.2 mm
Oil Ring Groove Size 3.0 mm
SO...... The pictures.
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I scored these on Ebay for $120 shipped to my door.
As we all know the F2's deck is 14.5mm taller than the FE. So the connecting rod im am going to use is the FE/FET rod. The Big end bore is 2.126, The Rod Small end is .866, and the length is 5.985. So, The Probe pistons i have bought have a CH of 1.25, and the FE-Rod is 5.985 which is a total of 7.235'' or 183.7mm which leaves me with an "ok" rod stroke ratio of (1.61). The F2 has a Piston CH of 1.45 and a rod length of 6.220 and a total of 7.670. SO there is a .435 or 11.049mm difference between the 2 stock F2 rod combo and mine. So this eliminates the 8mm of piston coming up from the FE's Deck but gives me a -3.049mm below deck. So as of now im just waiting on my rods to get here so i can mock it up and cc the combustion chamber. My pistons dont really have much of a dome to speak of so thats a plus in my case. Im only shooting for 7.5:1 - 7.8:1, decking it 0.50/1.25mm will leave me with 1.7mm below deck which would prob be better. We will see how much i have to take off of the deck and head together. And if the FE/FET rods are as stout as i Read/Heard. Bound to be better than the kia rods though. Not much worried about the pistons. Only that i have 2 extra i cant do anything with since the set came with 6.
just to clarify, fe sohc or dohc rod, as I don't know the lengths off the top of my head...if it is the dohc rods, they appear to be the same to me, as I have a couple sets of each...a sohc rod I don't think I've ever had possession of one so couldn't say, just knew they were a touch longer.
Odd about the crank clearance, I didn't need to do anything on either stroker I built...
just to clarify, fe sohc or dohc rod, as I don't know the lengths off the top of my head...if it is the dohc rods, they appear to be the same to me, as I have a couple sets of each...a sohc rod I don't think I've ever had possession of one so couldn't say, just knew they were a touch longer.
Odd about the crank clearance, I didn't need to do anything on either stroker I built...
Yes, the Rod im going to use is The SOHC-FE 5.985 (152mm) is the length. The FE3 has a shorter rod of 5.906 (150mm). I have never had any FE-SOHC rods in my possession either. All i know is, is what i have read. So there a tad longer which fills in some of the gap in deck height. Also from what i have read, the Fe-SOHC Rods are much beefier than the Kia rods kinda F2 like and "SUPPOSED" to be pretty stout. This part is up in the air at this point so ill know when the rods get here what is fact or fiction. Besides, the rods were 140$ shipped so if it fails, i have not lost much. Ill take pictures within the following weekend about the crank hitting the bottom of the cylinder bores and do some re checking. I work nights so its hard to get anything done except on the weekends..
you have the original 8 Valve - the 8 valve export Turbo the Magnum turbo (should be nothing internal) then you have all the other late model 8 valve and 12 valve variants.
Pretty positive you will find some Rod was used across the range - with maybe only turbo variants shot -penned.
Are they strong - well Most 626 turbos and ford Tx-5 turbo variants I knwo of that were modded back in the day. None threw rods. Even ion N/A form - most did rings - heads and pistons but pistons i know of one guy cracked it and drove the car another 100km home burning oil - cooked the head and it still started next day when he drove it to reconditioners and did a swap. So I think you will find them strong enough. Most Rods are it's the tune that kills them
RIP WAGON 626 GV 1023 7 seat auto 10-5-05.
RIP BA-ASTINA 323 V6 -KF P-plate victim 2-9-07
FORD TELSTAR TX-5 TURBO, 80's ICON RIP 01-07-07
REBORN WAGON -MAN 28-07-07 - A NEW START
I am STILL addicted to Porn. "MXSIX" out
Stroker will not dissapoint. I just had a spirited trip to town in mine today and at 15 psi on a 60 trims to4e I had loads of traction problems. One word of advice. The effective gear ratio of the gt trans is not the best for the stroker. Look for a better final drive solution.
Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....
you have the original 8 Valve - the 8 valve export Turbo the Magnum turbo (should be nothing internal) then you have all the other late model 8 valve and 12 valve variants.
Pretty positive you will find some Rod was used across the range - with maybe only turbo variants shot -penned.
Are they strong - well Most 626 turbos and ford Tx-5 turbo variants I knwo of that were modded back in the day. None threw rods. Even ion N/A form - most did rings - heads and pistons but pistons i know of one guy cracked it and drove the car another 100km home burning oil - cooked the head and it still started next day when he drove it to reconditioners and did a swap. So I think you will find them strong enough. Most Rods are it's the tune that kills them
For the FE-SOHC B2000/626 turbo or non turbo, they are showing the exact same part numbers for both Rods (CRMA8). They are showing CRMA8L for the early 85-87 B2000. What the difference is i dont know. I have the specs for the CRMA8 so thats what i was going with.
CRMA8
$33.00
(casting #FE)
CRMA8L
$33.00
(casting #FH)
Stroker will not dissapoint. I just had a spirited trip to town in mine today and at 15 psi on a 60 trims to4e I had loads of traction problems. One word of advice. The effective gear ratio of the gt trans is not the best for the stroker. Look for a better final drive solution.
Well.........It is going in the 91 B2200 mated to my G6 Box eventually. Im leaving the OE B2200 box in it till its guts vacate the housing, its only got 100k on it and it held the F2T at 25 psi for a few months and gave me no issues. But i also wasn't dumping the clutch every chance i got either. Only easy takes off or runs from a roll. We will see
I think you will find them strong enough. Most Rods are it's the tune that kills them
Although the extra rod angle on the strokers does add to the side load.
Improving the rod ratio will fix it a little bit. Would it be enough to handle 25psi..hmmm
84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way.
89 626 5 door F2T now with VF34 and MFactory LSD parted - now being made into tomato soup cans
90 323 sedan B6 SOHC Slug-o-matic DD, sold...too slow
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
Although the extra rod angle on the strokers does add to the side load.
Improving the rod ratio will fix it a little bit. Would it be enough to handle 25psi..hmmm
Well the F2's rod ratio is 1.68, and the ratio i came up with for the rods i picked is 1.61. I dont think it will be to bad.
Nice...take some pics when you get the rods, not sure if kia ever changed the rods over the years, but I wouldn't call them small either, at least equivalent to an f2, but both my sets are from early year kia's, and looked to be the same as my mazda fe3 rods, maybe even a bit bigger on the small end.
It would be nice to see some more successful fe3 strokers, after having 2 that spun rod bearings, I'm having a hard time doing another one, lundgren's has been going for a while now
yes it is....so dont worry about that side of things.
84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way.
89 626 5 door F2T now with VF34 and MFactory LSD parted - now being made into tomato soup cans
90 323 sedan B6 SOHC Slug-o-matic DD, sold...too slow
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
Yeah, it just that the rod end is a press fit .866 which should make it about .860 ish. Ill know when the rods get here on thursday. My pistons are full floating, but i was told i can put floating pistons on a press fit rod, but not the other way around. So i should be good.
Nice...take some pics when you get the rods, not sure if kia ever changed the rods over the years, but I wouldn't call them small either, at least equivalent to an f2, but both my sets are from early year kia's, and looked to be the same as my mazda fe3 rods, maybe even a bit bigger on the small end.
It would be nice to see some more successful fe3 strokers, after having 2 that spun rod bearings, I'm having a hard time doing another one, lundgren's has been going for a while now
4500 miles and 1500 of them turboed. I do think that the deck height and oiling differences may play a part to my sucess. The F8-DOHC was the base to my powerplant. I have intentions to pull the oil pan and check the bearings clearances this winter. While im at it I might have some ARP rod bolt inserted to add an aditional level of security. I cant wait to see another stroker build come together. GL.
Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....
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