FE3 overbore Q.

[Dutch]

do we have any members on here who bored their FE3 over and didnt go turbo?????
i want to do this with my spare FE3. but i cant find any good info on this.
i read, read, read and read the site from Randy i pm-ed and e-mailed him but unfortunatly i didnt get any response.
i would like to know what to use.
by reading the site from Randy i noticed he used the 2,2-crank and if understood correct he used some kind of Chevy-rods.
since i also read those arent made and sold anymore i would like to know if someone on here knows what supstitute for a rod and piston to use.
thanks for any replies which could help me out on making this project work.

Cheap route is use the 2.2L crank, stock rods (they more than most people will ever need), and use H23A Pistons with 1.1mm flycut.

BTW Randy did all the research on this one.

[RandyS]

Originally posted by dutch626
do we have any members on here who bored their FE3 over and didnt go turbo?????
i want to do this with my spare FE3. but i cant find any good info on this.
i read, read, read and read the site from Randy i pm-ed and e-mailed him but unfortunatly i didnt get any response.
i would like to know what to use.
by reading the site from Randy i noticed he used the 2,2-crank and if understood correct he used some kind of Chevy-rods.
since i also read those arent made and sold anymore i would like to know if someone on here knows what supstitute for a rod and piston to use.
thanks for any replies which could help me out on making this project work.

I never received any emails so don't know what you are talking about there. I'm very accessable.

I used aftermarket forged Chevy rods made for the 153 L4 and 215/230 L6 by Crower. They are still made and are popular in some circle track racing classes. The pistons I used were custom JE forged from a Cosworth Vega application which you would not likely find again. It was a one-time windfall on ebay for me.

If I had to do it all over again I would probably use an aftermarket +1mm Honda H23 piston instead. They are plentiful, inexpensive and fit the stock rod. The low 1.203" compression height is still about .040-.050" too tall to fit with the stroker crank and the 2.0 block deck height so it needs to be flycut (trial fit and measure first before cutting).

Randy

[Dutch]

thanks for the info guys.
maybe i sent the emails to a wrong adress??? but ive also pm-ed u.
well never mind. im happy with the replies allthough im not gonna use it.

just this morning i had my engine transported to a rebuild-service.
my block is getting honed.
im having installed 4 new pistons with rings
the cranck will be polished
and then both rod and cranck bearings will be renewed/placed.

ill keep u guys updated on the progress

does anyone know if i can have the cams regrind??
i have both cams here from the EGR/CAT and the non-CAT/EGR version. (say FE3N and FE5A.)
i just read the post about the 170 HP J-spec FE-ZE engine and if i understood correct by having different/agressive cams and a J-spec ECU i should be able to reach for the 170 HP ...................right

[RandyS]

Originally posted by dutch626

i just read the post about the 170 HP J-spec FE-ZE engine and if i understood correct by having different/agressive cams and a J-spec ECU i should be able to reach for the 170 HP ..............

I don't see why not ... but I'd use an aftermarket programmable ECU and forget the factory piece.

Randy

[Dutch]

i did make some phonecalls this afternoon after posting and transporting the engine.
and i have found a company which can dyno my car when the block is in. and then they write/make a new chip for it.
i think if the J-spec ECU can support the 170HP on a "standard" (read J-spec ECU) i think they should be able to get me some extra power to by reading the original ECU and then make me a new chip.
the total costs are in USD about $300.- that includes 2 dynoruns one before and one after and having the chip made.
ill keep u updated.
if things arent working out i can always go the standalone system. for "only" $300.- i think its worh a try.
and having some dynoruns for that money aint bad too i think.
at least i can tell what the stock output is when i reassembled the block after its done at the rebuild service.