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#1 (permalink) |
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Experiment 626
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FS: '90 626 GT FE3-T swap, lots of extras. $2500
New price: $2500
I cant believe I'm typing this right now, but I'm selling my 626. After having this car for 8 years I just feel it's time to move on. I've wanted a Miata for years now and I decided to finally get one. So here's what we've got. First the mod list: Engine: Mazda FE-DOHC. -Venolia forged pistons 9:1 compression ratio -ARP head studs -VR6 valve springs -Intake keepers on the exhaust valves (to correct an inherent design flaw) -Balanced bottom end -New hydraulic lifters -FE3N intake and exhaust cams -Turbonetics T3 60 trim, .48 a/r exhaust (starts building boost at 2k rpm), turbonetics dual port wastegate actuator. Polished compressor housing. -Custom built ceramic coated log-style manifold and downpipe. -Polished (not internally, just for aesthetics) intake manifold. -HKS SSQBOV -Catco 2.5" cat. converter -Pacesetter cat-back exhaust w/straight through muffler -FC RX-7 550cc injectors -Walbro 190lph fuel pump -Flex-a-lite electric cooling fan Transmission: -Phantom grip -Pacesetter shifter -Southbend OFE clutch disk w/DXD pressure plate -Redline MTL fluid Electronics/instrumentation: -Megasquirt v2.2 board, running MSNS 024.s19 code -Crane Hi-6 ignition -AEM Wideband gauge/controller (linked to MS) -Autometer ultra-lite 1600f EGT gauge -Autometer ultra-lite 20psi boost gauge -KnocksenseMS knock indicator (linked to MS for knock retard) -Apexi AVC-R boost controller -Optima red-top battery mounted in trunk Suspension: -H&R sport springs -Tokico blue struts (2ndgen in front for added susp. travel) -Addco endlinks -PGT 18mm rear sway bar -OEM rear strut tower brace -AWR front strut tower brace Interior/Exterior/accessories: -Momo Runner steering wheel -Momo shift knob -MX-6 front seats. -Power drivers seat. -Auto dimming rearview mirror -Keyless entry -Hella 550 Fog lamps -FOHA rear spoiler (rare euro only part) -Cerwin Vega 10" bandpass w/mtx amp. Recent maintenance parts: -Right side wheel bearing -New front brake pads (they're crap, but they're new) -Clutch master and slave cyl's. -New 80amp alternator -thermostat -a/c was overhauled last year. New expansion valve, reciever dryer, and all o-rings. Charged with 134a. It's friggin cold (got 28f out of the vents, in the sun, on a 90F day). The car has 208k miles on the body. I did the FE-DOHC swap at 200k miles, which was a very costly 2 year project. It runs very well, burns no oil, runs quiet, etc... I've never had it to the track, and I only had it on the dyno once just after breakin. It made 181whp with 8psi on the old FEAP cam. I expect it to be in the 225whp range now that it's running a FE3N cam and 11psi. It runs very strong. It feels completely different from a F2T. It revs to 7k! And it likes it! This motor has lots of potential. People make well over 300whp easily with these motors. Poke around the FE-DOHC forum and you'll see. The good: -Everything works. A/C, ABS, P/S, cruise, window locks, lights, etc... -Passed (after some careful tuning) NYS emissions. -Paint is still pretty shiny. -Smells nice inside. Very clean interior. It's been garage kept for the past 8 years. -The motor is spotless inside. I didn't have to clean/desludge anything. It's literally like brand new in there. -I'm the second owner of the car. I still have the full owners manual packet, emergency sunroof/seatbelt crank tool, and whatever else is in there. -I've got a maintainance log going back to when I bought the car. I logged every repair. The bad: -Rust. Most notably the fender skirt area directly under the battery tray where it joins the rest of the car. It's swiss cheese. Some minor rust on the frame rails in the middle of the car. There's a hole in the pocket for the jack in the trunk, and both front fenders are rusted at the bottoms. -Pass. side rocker panel dented... no bashed in. Don't know how this happened as I bought the car this way. it was one of those "I'll fix it when I get it painted" things. I never got around to it. It's not rusting fortunately. -Custom exhaust manifold that took months to make has a couple of welds starting to crack. If someone goes over them with a mig-welder it should be fine. Certainly easier than building a new one. It's still driveable for a very long time if you leave it alone. -Rear main seal leaking. I must've nicked it a little when I installed installed it the second time (didn't leak the first time). I'll try and find time to fix this before the sale. The leak isn't horrendous. Just that it ends up blowing on the cat.converter which makes it burn off if you get on it. -Intercooler pipes could use some improvement. Now i took a whole bunch of pictures today, but they disappeared from the memory card when I went to transfer them to my computer. So I'll have to resort to other pics I already had laying around. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() One other thing. You can keep the subwoofer and speakers, but you're on your own for a head unit. I'll be putting it in the new miata (it's not a great HU but it's one of the few I've found that you can still see in the sun with sunglasses on) My asking price is $3500 (now $2500). This is a very fair price (now a crackhead price). You'd be buying a complete FE3-T swap for far less than it would cost to build it yourself, and you're getting a nice free car thrown in. You can buy the car just for the motor itself and you'd still be ahead of the game. More pics are to follow. No crackhead offers please, and no trades (unless it's a 93-95 Miata ).Last edited by anarchyx34 : 8-7-07 at 20:44. |
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Anarchyx
'98 VW Jetta K2- Daily driver. '94 Miata C-package- Tein S-tech, Tokico Illumina, FCM bump stops & 15" OZ Superleggera, MSPNP |
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#2 (permalink) |
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4WS Freak
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Oh man. What a nice car. It is such a shame to see it leave your hands. Hopefully someone (wish it was me, but I am going the SHO route for $$$ reasons) will take supreme care of the car. NIce work. I like the volvo too. I can't wait to see your maita!
This is by far the cheapest FE3T setup i have ever seen, not to mention you could drive it anywhere. If i could sell both the cars in my sig. ASAP then I would/could buy it. Not gonna happen... Best of luck with the sale mate. |
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Noble White 626 turbo 4WS 5spd. Intake, exhaust, turbo timer =reliable daily driver.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2525741 |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Any water leak in the car, meaning any leak from the roof(front by the windshield)? hows the floor? how are the brake and gas lines?
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KITTED 92 MX6 GT<-CLICK HERE Quote: Originally Posted by SD6 "A crackpipe is what you hit." |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Experiment 626
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No water leaks! When I got the car the sunroof leaked a little due to clogged drains but I blew them out, and 8 years later, nothing leaks. Brake lines are fine, as are fuel lines. The filler neck is a little rusty looking but always has been. I also forgot to mention that a new fuel tank was installed a few years ago (was leaking at the seam like they always do). The floor pan itself has no rust.
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Anarchyx
'98 VW Jetta K2- Daily driver. '94 Miata C-package- Tein S-tech, Tokico Illumina, FCM bump stops & 15" OZ Superleggera, MSPNP |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I am thinking some things over and you may get a pm from me shortly. |
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KITTED 92 MX6 GT<-CLICK HERE Quote: Originally Posted by SD6 "A crackpipe is what you hit." |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Experiment 626
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Here's one I found on my computer at work. It's gigormous so I'll just post a link.
http://www.photodump.com/direct/anarchyx34/IMG_1328.jpg I also found a video to go along with it. YouTube - FE3 626 turbo dyno This was taken about 2 weeks after I had the car running. This dyno session was for the initial tune so we were only running about 6psi to start and about 8psi by the end of the day (when it made the 181whp). I think this was a 3rd gear pull to 6k rpms. I'm the dork in the passengers seat with the headphones on listening for knock ![]() Last edited by anarchyx34 : 6-19-07 at 15:41. |
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Anarchyx
'98 VW Jetta K2- Daily driver. '94 Miata C-package- Tein S-tech, Tokico Illumina, FCM bump stops & 15" OZ Superleggera, MSPNP |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Experiment 626
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Oh yeah, and the vids. It's hard to hold a camera and drive at the same time
![]() Also, you'll notice the low-fuel light is on when I'm not low on fuel. Just started doing this today. I replaced the fuel sending unit with a used one a few weeks ago and the first time I let it run low enough for the light to come on it gets stuck. It was about 85F today when I took these pics. 1stgear YouTube - FE3 1stgear pull 11psi 2ndgear (I was hanging at 4500 rpms waiting for traffic to clear) YouTube - FE3 2ndgear pull 11psi boost response. Poking around at low rpms. YouTube - FE3 boost response. |
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Anarchyx
'98 VW Jetta K2- Daily driver. '94 Miata C-package- Tein S-tech, Tokico Illumina, FCM bump stops & 15" OZ Superleggera, MSPNP |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Dude we have the same head unit
I just looked at your Apexi controller again and took a lil glance above it and voila..Clarion right? I've got the DXZ845MC model. |
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KITTED 92 MX6 GT<-CLICK HERE Quote: Originally Posted by SD6 "A crackpipe is what you hit." |
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