100% Complete rear disk brake swap out of a 95 LS with 59K miles.
Complete spindles with hubs, calipers, brackets, rotors, brake pads, Emergency brake lines, Master cylinder, proportion valve, and any other relevant parts to the swap (tell me what else is needed if anything).
Everything is in excellent condition. The donor car was an adult driven automatic with zero modifications. No salt damage to anything either since this car was abviously a warm weather toy for some one up here in the north east.
100% Complete rear disk brake swap out of a 95 LS with 59K miles.
Complete spindles with hubs, calipers, brackets, rotors, brake pads, Emergency brake lines, Master cylinder, proportion valve, and any other relevant parts to the swap (tell me what else is needed if anything).
Everything is in excellent condition. The donor car was an adult driven automatic with zero modifications. No salt damage to anything either since this car was abviously a warm weather toy for some one up here in the north east.
Many other parts still available from this car. E-mail me with needs
The master cylinder and prop. valve are not needed for the swap. Even with them included, your price is out of this world. Mike Hughes sells the swap for far less than that... I believe I paid less than $200 USD shipped to CANADA.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragincanadian4
There's a lot of times where it seems he tries to sound smart by stringing together a bunch of words, but it just ends up making no sense and he ends up looking like a [fizzle]face.
yeah thats crazy i paid 500 hundred for a 93 mx6 ls and i got all those parts off it ur fizzing nuts
95 mx6 rs black with 18x8 exel ennio custom cold air intake and custom exhaust header back with resonated test pipe and BnM sts drilled slotted brimbo rotors hawk hps pads and new bravox subs and amp http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2056072
If you can't back your claims up with some relevant tech, STFU.
Drums don't work like disks. Feel free to e-mail me and I'll explain to you the differences in flow and valving requirements....
If you feel you really saved $50 by buying an incomplete kit from a high mileage car thats been sitting in a field for a few years.. good for you. Thats not what I'm selling.
My kit will require zero replacement parts to work PROPERLY.. You can do that with a low mileage, garage kept donor car... I highly doubt that was the case with your "mega bargain" purchase.. Everything you wrote is completely irrelevant to my thread. You're comparing apples to your ass.
And the other idiot... I wasn't aware that I was selling a 200K mile clapped out parts car that you have to drag home, rip apart, and then pray that you can reuse most of the components.. Your time may not be worth anything, but I'm sure that others feel differently and won't find any problem with the kit I'm selling. Again, completely irrelevant.
I have no problem with a relevant FYI, I actually encourage it. But crap like this is completely unnecessary and a waste of my time.
Edit: Toxic, nothing above pertains to your post. But again, junkyard hopping isn't an option for everyone. And the parts arn't always exactly the cream of the crop.
This isn't a honda rear disc setup, where only 5% of the car had them (making them rare). This isn't a highly sought after, rare product. Parts are cheap, and almost ANYONE can get them.
We're not bashing you or this thread, we're trying to help you make the sale by offering advice.
Advice and info is always welcome. The first two post really had none of that.
Still don't have any info on the "master cylinder not needed" claim... It just polutes my thread with missinformation.. thats crap
And being told I'm "fizzing nuts" isn't exactly an invite to be extra nice, especially when adding more irrelevant crap to the thread.
If you guys feel I'm being irrational, sorry about that. But getting responses like that everytime you post something will start to get annoying after a while.. If you don't like the price DON'T BUY IT! or just make an offer.. No need for all the bitching and moaning, especially from people that arn't even looking for these parts.
I've dealt with quite a few people on this board and all will tell you that I'm more than reasonable when it's time to talk turkey, not BS.
But yes if you guys have something to add, be my guest, the more accurate info the better I say.
Advice and info is always welcome. The first two post really had none of that.
Still don't have any info on the "master cylinder not needed" claim... It just polutes my thread with missinformation.. thats crap
And being told I'm "fizzing nuts" isn't exactly an invite to be extra nice, especially when adding more irrelevant crap to the thread.
If you guys feel I'm being irrational, sorry about that. But getting responses like that everytime you post something will start to get annoying after a while.. If you don't like the price DON'T BUY IT! or just make an offer.. No need for all the bitching and moaning, especially from people that arn't even looking for these parts.
I've dealt with quite a few people on this board and all will tell you that I'm more than reasonable when it's time to talk turkey, not BS.
But yes if you guys have something to add, be my guest, the more accurate info the better I say.
The 1st, is probobly the most relivant post in this thread. He has done a rear disc conversion (recently), and can probobly answer any question about that you have.
Also, I'm sure the 'crap' he's informing you on is true, as it most likely has been tested, in his case.
But still, with no real technical info other than the fact that he connected some lines and there is brake fluid flowing..the post is irrelevant and probably missleading. Drum brakes need a whole lot more fluid to work than disk brakes. His car is probably totally off balance with lock-happy rear brakes due to the excessive amount of fluid/line pressure. Unballanced brakes = unsafe car.. So untill some one brings some real technical info on this, I'm not buying it and it shouldn't be posted here.
Your lines about "safety" are nothing more than BS. My car drives just the same as it did with drums. As you can see by my join date, I have been on this site and Probetalk for 4 years, and not once in any discussion of rear brake swaps have I heard mention of any of the points you are trying to bring into this discussion. If this procedure was indeed as dangerous as you say, I'm QUITE sure we would have heard about it by now.
My car has been MTX swapped, rear disc swapped, suspension & brakes completely redone among many other things, and I do not a) use crap parts and more importantly b) do crap work. I can guarantee you I've spent far more hours under the hood of the MX6 than you can hope to match, so I am going to ask you that YOU quit trying to feed people BS lines that are untrue. We've got enough misinformation floating around here.
Now why don't you go take your overpriced junkyard parts and make yourself a side table out of them, because you won't sell them at that price, master cylinder and proportioning valve or not. Hughes46 will still beat your price, and I would trust him (as I and many others have) over you any day of the week.
EDIT: As mentioned in my threads above, price from Hughes46 for everything you are offering less the M/C and prop. valve which are not needed = $242.93 CANADIAN shipped. If I wanted those two parts, I still could have got them included for well under your price.
Last edited by Malicious : 11-10-05 at 7:45.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragincanadian4
There's a lot of times where it seems he tries to sound smart by stringing together a bunch of words, but it just ends up making no sense and he ends up looking like a [fizzle]face.
Your lines about "safety" are nothing more than BS. My car drives just the same as it did with drums. As you can see by my join date, I have been on this site and Probetalk for 4 years, and not once in any discussion of rear brake swaps have I heard mention of any of the points you are trying to bring into this discussion. If this procedure was indeed as dangerous as you say, I'm QUITE sure we would have heard about it by now.
My car has been MTX swapped, rear disc swapped, suspension & brakes completely redone among many other things, and I do not a) use crap parts and more importantly b) do crap work. I can guarantee you I've spent far more hours under the hood of the MX6 than you can hope to match, so I am going to ask you that YOU quit trying to feed people BS lines that are untrue. We've got enough misinformation floating around here.
Now why don't you go take your overpriced junkyard parts and make yourself a side table out of them, because you won't sell them at that price, master cylinder and proportioning valve or not. Hughes46 will still beat your price, and I would trust him (as I and many others have) over you any day of the week.
EDIT: As mentioned in my threads above, price from Hughes46 for everything you are offering less the M/C and prop. valve which are not needed = $242.93 CANADIAN shipped. If I wanted those two parts, I still could have got them included for well under your price.
So you're saying I need to be a regular on this site where nobody even bothers to bring up brake bias/proportioning/valving into the equation when doing a major change to a cars braking system in order to have a valid point about something? If so, I'll start a few threads about my cars new wax job and the pictures I took of it so I can build my credibility on here when taking on a technical issue.. (sorry, couldn't help but look through your old threads)
You obviously have no clue, your links show you can turn a wrench, but doesn't make you an expert on anything other than being able top turn a wrench.. do some reading outside of this site for your info if nobody here bothers to mention/spoon feed it to you. Here is a good place to start http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
As far as your car stopping the same as it did with the drums.. How often do you use threshold braking? You know, like when you're gonna hit a wall, or when you're at an autocross/open track event? Oh nevermind, you're the guy starting multiple threads on body kits and push button starters.. Your only reason for the disk upgrade is for the bling factor, correct? Of course it is...
Misinformation my ass...
I wouldn't exactly consider you a creditable source when looking for feedback on how well your new mismatched rear disk brakes work.. and you really shouldn't pretend you are.. No matter how "NICE" your install turned out, you still don't have a clue.
I've owned three 2nd gen MX6's, two 2nd gen probes, and a 1st gen probe GT in the past 5 years. Both 4 and 6 cyl models. I've driven and worked on all of them excpet this one.. which doesn't mean a damn thing. I know people who have worked on cars for a living thier entire lives and don't know much more than how to turn a wrench.. Not taking anything away from you on doing all your own work, but that doesn't really prove much, especially in the way of understanding a braking systems balance.
And as far as who you buy parts from it's up to you. My issue is with you and your super trolling abilities backed by zero real tech and uncanny ability to waste my time with this crap, not with another vendor/member of this site.
So in short, get your head out of your ass, open a book, make sure you understand a subject before you go preaching about it, and stfu untill you do.
Oh yeah, thanks for the links, the one with you cutting out half of the rear end was rather useful. I'll include all of the control arms for a small fee if the buyer thinks he/she may need them.
okay im tired of this. back to your original post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Georonimo
100% Complete rear disk brake swap out of a 95 LS with 59K miles.
Complete spindles with hubs, calipers, brackets, rotors, brake pads, Emergency brake lines, Master cylinder, proportion valve, and any other relevant parts to the swap (tell me what else is needed if anything).
Everything is in excellent condition. The donor car was an adult driven automatic with zero modifications. No salt damage to anything either since this car was abviously a warm weather toy for some one up here in the north east.
There's a lot of times where it seems he tries to sound smart by stringing together a bunch of words, but it just ends up making no sense and he ends up looking like a [fizzle]face.
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