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#17 (permalink) |
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Whoa. I have a Ford Contour trans in my MX6! (you got your MX6 on my Contour trans!)
The part I showed before is the speed sensor. I looked up Contour parts on a suggestion from a friend of mine and found this... ![]() kinda looks like what I got. This car is getting more and more bizzare as I dig into it. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Someone in the 2nd gen section used a Ford Contour rear swaybar on their mx6. Maybe Mazda makes this Ford Contour as well like the mx6 v probe. I googled the pic, I would out $20 that a Ford contour is a Rebadged and restyled Eunos 800 /Millenia maybe???
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174kw at 9psi KLDE-T
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#19 (permalink) |
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NEW DEVELOPMENT!
It may be a bad wire or the EEC (electronic engine control) is bad. I should be getting 5 volts down the wire to the VSS and I'm only getting 2.8 volts. Maybe it varries between 2.8 and 5 while the wheel is spinning and thats how it measures speed but I'm only guessing. I'm going to give it a go this afternoon and see if I can find either a bad connection or maybe it is just the sensor. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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The contour is as much a pure ford product as you will find any more. It's possible that mazda built the trans for ford but the rest of the car is ford. I believe later cars came with the MZR engine though. It's various design elements can be traced back to the earliest ford FWD cars. It has a lot in common with the first gen escort-tempo and taurus and even the 1st gen focus. It is way smaller than the millenia and uses mac struts in front and a multi link rear. Interesting trivial fact. The mercury cougar based on the contour was at first supposed to be the 3rd gen probe but ford decided that the failing mercury needed a flag car. |
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96 MX-6 full exhaust A/C delete spoiler delete probe wheels and a turbo in the worx. 01 626 brake's
90 pontiac transam. 350 TPI motor new 24# injectors. Rebuilt trans. lots to come. |
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#21 (permalink) | |
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#22 (permalink) |
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OK, now I'm back to square one. Everything I was just kvetching about was the turbine shaft speed sensor. I was tracing a white wire with a black-red ground.I think it has something to do with ABS but it wasn't what I was looking for. According to the wiring diagrams in the back of the Haynes manual, I was on the wrong track. The VSS is wired to the speedometer using a red-black/grey-blue pair of wires, so I may have a bad speedometer or a bad VSS. I still can't find where the VSS is so I'll keep digging and let you know. thanks everybody!
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#25 (permalink) |
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UPDATE!
Ok, I FINALLY found the VSS. It was hidden under the rear motor mount. I had to jack the car up and get under there to find it. It's positioned correctly, but I had a hard time getting it out due to the motor mount. I needed another jack and a block of wood to raise the engine/trans to get the clearance to remove it. I now have the correct part on order so in about a week I should have pictures and an update on how it worked. blade666: that's how I determined it was the wrong thing to begin with. I went as far as seeing if my speedometer was damaged and spent a day last week ripping the dash apart. I can say I am getting quite the crash course on MX-6 mechanics with this thing. My next project is probably going to be the right side transaxle. It makes an uneasy click and grind when gas is applied in a left turn. |
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#28 (permalink) |
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OK IT'S DONE!!!
I finally have it in and it's working!! Sorry I don't have pics but I have a step by step procedure now on how to replace it without removing the motor mount, which happens to be RIGHT IN THE FRIGGIN WAY!! You'll need: - a new VSS (I picked mine up from AutoZone for $60 and it took a couple of days) - two jackstands - a pump-style jack - a block of wood - a 10 mm wrench Lift the car and place the entire front of the car on the jackstands. This will help with getting under the car and keep the engine and trans level. Remove the passenger side wheel. This will give you a direct line of sight to where the sensor is not to mention it'll be easier to get under the car. Put the block of wood on the pump jack and slowly raise the motor having the block of wood under the oil pan. Raise the jack slowly to get the mount up enough to be able to pull the sensor out. Now, get under the trans and pull the wiring harness off of the top of the sensor. Remove the retaining bolt with the 10mm wrench. DO NOT LOSE THIS!!!!! Pull the sensor up slightly and then turn 180 degrees so it will clear the motor mount. You might need to work it a little to get it out, but don't force it. If the mount is still in the way, raise the engine a bit more. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LIFT THE ENGINE TOO MUCH!!! YOU COULD RAISE THE WHOLE CAR AND LIFT IT OFF THE JACKSTANDS!!! KEEP AND EYE ON THE JACKSTANDS WHILE LIFTING THE ENGINE!!!! Installation is the reverse of this. Don't force the new sensor in. Push it down so the O ring is seated and the little "handle" part is flush with the metal. Putting the screw back in can be a little tricky. Once it's in and bolted down, plug the wires back in, lower the engine, and clean up. This is cheaper than a whole trans swap and less of a pain than going from ATX to MTX. I hope this helps. All of you have been a big help. Thanks and I'll talk to ya soon! Last edited by MisterPickles : 2-24-08 at 16:07. |
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