Looking for a valve spring compressor that fits thru the top of the head

[unamedplaya87]

We are changing the valve seals and none of the auto parts stores have a spring compressor that can fit thru the top of the head.
BTW we are NOT taking the head off.
Does any one know where I can find a compressor like that? Thanks!
Car is a 94 V6 mx6

[Mx6MaZTer]

Proform 66784 - Proform Valve Spring Compressor - JEGS

Manley 41870 - Manley Valve Spring Compressor - JEGS

JEGS 80518 - JEGS Stud Mount Valve Spring Compressor - JEGS

[4cylfun]

that sounds kinda scary, having to hold the valve to not let it drop into the cylinder. Would much less of a hassle but i'm not sure i would risk that.

[blade666]

2 ways to keep the vlv seated.

1) leakdown tester and fill cylinder with air.

2)bring piston down, pull spark plug, insert string (long, so roll on itself creating a cushion for the vlv) and bring piston to tdc to hold vlv in place.

Voila!! change a vlv without it dropping in the cylinder.

[unamedplaya87]

Originally Posted by blade666

2 ways to keep the vlv seated.

1) leakdown tester and fill cylinder with air.

2)bring piston down, pull spark plug, insert string (long, so roll on itself creating a cushion for the vlv) and bring piston to tdc to hold vlv in place.

Voila!! change a vlv without it dropping in the cylinder.

Yea I knew that. Problem is that no store carries a compressor that is thin and can fit thru the tiny clearance. Sears, auto zone, advance auto, napa, no one

[blade666]

KD Valve Spring Lifter and Compressors

You'll need these type of compressor:

DELUXE UNIVERSAL OVERHEAD VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR


KD 3271$41.50 Compressor easily removes valve springs on most cars and light trucks. Tool can be used with the cylinder head on or off the engine. Features a removable handle allowing use with a 5/8" socket or wrench in confined areas and an extra-long leg for more applications. For best results, use with 901 or 2992 Air Hold Fittings to pressurize the cylinder and keep the valves in place during removal of the spring and keepers. Replacement part: 3271-75 Long Leg. Replacement part: 3271-76 Short Leg. Caution: Vehicle must be placed in park/neutral before applying air pressure, otherwise vehicle may move. Keep hands clear of fan, belts and pulleys, since slight crankshaft rotation will occur.
UNIVERSAL OVERHEAD VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR


KD 2078$30.00 Remove valve springs on most cars with overhead valves without removing the cylinder head. Offset jaws grip the valve spring in parallel compression. Tool maintains constant length as spring is compressed. Use with 901 or 2992 Air Hold Fittings to keep valve in place. Caution: Vehicle must be placed in park/neutral before applying air pressure, otherwise vehicle may move. Keep hands clear of fan, belts and pulleys since slight crankshaft rotation will occur.

[unamedplaya87]

Those don't fit. The spring is surrounded by a wall, you can say it is inside a cylinder whose diameter is slightly bigger than the spring's diameter.
We are going to have to make our own while the valve stems get here.

[unamedplaya87]

Ok this is holding us up. We have taken apart the car, camshafts are off the car. Can not let it stay open otherwise rust!!!!!!!!!!
NAPAONLINE®
This is the best I found. If store does not have it, we need to make our own.
I can't believe stores don't carry tools that you need......

[mx6er89]

this was my way of doing this when i rebuilt my heads with new valve seals and resurfaced the valve seats.

the heads were off the car already, and if you want to follow my way you HAVE to take them off... but if you get creative and find another way then by all means, but this is the way i did it

ok, first of all, you need a valve compressor like the one shown herehttp://www.stangpro.com/html/project...uired-assm.JPG

not the little one but the big ol C lookin thing. and you will need an extra set of hands, preferable some one mechanically inclined

you will also need a socket that fits the valve, like a 17mm i think, it depends on the size, get one that fits

now what you need to do is cut the socket with a grinder or something, just get something to cut it with.... ok so after thinking about how i am going to explain everything and how long its going to take to do that i found a pic that will answer alot of questions and explain a good number of things for me...

ok well basically that is what you have to do with the tool pictured and you will need a extra set of hands

but wait its not that simple now, you will need tools, alot of paitience as there are 24 valves and it takes a little time to do each of them and a can of grease (whatever kind for prefer as long as it is sticky, tacky like...

tool needed: skinny needle nose pliers, long skinny screwdriver, a metal pick (long and skinny prefered) now when i say long and skinny don't go crazy and buy the 3ft screwdriver and the 2 foot long needle nose or something like that, come on, your smart, use common sense, get something long and skinny enough to service the valves and fit into the area surroundings

i should be getting paid or something for sitting down and explaining this through a forum... info i am giving out, IMO is good [shizzle] for DIY valve servicing

ok, removing them, you don't have to take the heads out to get the retainers out but like i mentioned above, my heads were out of the car when i did these. take a socket that will fit valve like the way it fit the one pictured above, no not the cut one, another one. put it over the valve, then get a hammer and whack it.... yes, you read it right take a hammer and whack it hard, not a little cute blow. all you need is one blow and if done right the retainers will fall out. if they dont fall out hit it again. not a cute one but a decent manly blow should get them out. hold on to the socket and hammer cuz the force from the spring will cause it to come back at you.

so now you got them out and the retainers are somewhere close by and so is the top part, don't sweat it, just get a magnet and pick them up, and put them in a can or something.

now do whatever it is that you are going to do, valve seals, or a completely new valve or resurfacing the seats whatever.....

to put them back in, set it up like it is pictured ablve and set it up so that the opening points to where there is space to work around. now get your parts ready, this is where you need your helper. get that person (or yourself) to compress it, now you have to try and keep it as stable as you possible can because it can veer of to one side and fall off and you have to compress it again.

after you have mastered the art of compressing it (you will know what i am talking about when you actually do it)
get a retainer and put a dab of grease on the inner groove. this is where the fun begins and this is where having a steady hand and alot of patience comes in handy. get the needle nose and set one in there, use 2 hands and use whatever tool you feel necessary pick, flat head.... set one in and set the other in, this will take a while and pretty much do what you have to do to get both in. as soon as they are seated release it. and if you drop one, depending on where you drop it you can either get another one and keep going or release and start over. its more complicated then that and i have spent enough time on the computer that i don't feel like typing anymore...

summary: use the tool and socket, have alot of patience so you can "operate" on the heads.... and good luck, and at the shop i work at, i used to do this but not anymore as we have a machine shop that does our heads for us now, that might be better as you can get your heads fully rebuilt for a cost, for me the cost is worth it because you are going to be spending ALOT of time on these, but it is very cost effective as all you need are some basic tools a a spring compressor,


GL and good night!!! **yawns** **pops fingers**

[unamedplaya87]

I see what you are saying. We going to do the exact same thing, but with the heads on the engine. We are going to have a compressor that will fill the combustion chamber with air (thru the spark plug). That will keep the valves closed. But we need a tool like the one in the napa link. No one has it, has to be ordered 2-3 days. But in 2-3 days parts could get rusted, because this is good ole [shizzle]ty florida. Plus we live in a townhouse complex, no garage, people stare.....
My next car is so going to be a 4 banger, single cam, 2 valves per cylinder.
Thanks for the info man!

[mx6er89]

Originally Posted by unamedplaya87

I see what you are saying. We going to do the exact same thing, but with the heads on the engine. We are going to have a compressor that will fill the combustion chamber with air (thru the spark plug). That will keep the valves closed. But we need a tool like the one in the napa link. No one has it, has to be ordered 2-3 days. But in 2-3 days parts could get rusted, because this is good ole [shizzle]ty florida. Plus we live in a townhouse complex, no garage, people stare.....
My next car is so going to be a 4 banger, single cam, 2 valves per cylinder.
Thanks for the info man!

well i have never done it that way before, but you are going to need alot of air for that because it will take you a while to get it set and to learn how to do it, and then you have 23 more valves to go.... good luck bro

[nate_v8]

Take your lose parts and spray them with a thin coat of oil, like wd40 or something, and put them in a plastic bag, something that won't rip. Spray some oil over the open head too and cover it up with some plastic as well. I don't know if anyone has mentioned you can buy a cheap socket, deap well, and grind or cut half of it away and compress it down with the spring compressor.