Whats sorts of Widebands do you guys rocK?

**4cylfun** · 5-11-08, 15:04

I love my prosport gauges but they lack a wideband gauge.

I've seen the LC-1 i believe its called and i just don't like how slow it acts. But maybe its supposed to act that slow to give a more accurate reading or something.

Anyway i'm still working on making a turbo na block. Which i'm pretty much just using the na short block and using everything else from a GT engine to make things easy for myself. IJ'm going to begin soon and just want to know the best and most affordable Wideband.

Also i guess i need an electric boost controller to keep myself from asploding the engine. Be nice if it were the same company.

**Mazda4ever** · 5-11-08, 15:07

PLX Devices M-300 not bad, does the job.. Ive barely used it so I cant be too descriptive..

**Trent** · 5-11-08, 15:29

I'm using an AEM UEGO because I got a deal on a new one. Good response time and doesn't require periodic free-air recalibration like the Innovate ones do.

**compnut21** · 5-11-08, 16:21

i have the lc-1. its fast as hell for me, and calibrating it once a year really isnt that bad to keep the insane accuracy its got. also you can make you own output signals so it will work with any gauge/device. ill be ordering a cheap narrowband afr gauge soon and ill tell you how it turns out.

**4cylfun** · 5-11-08, 22:12

so your saying you can plug up the lc-1, and then use a cheaper afr gauge?

So far it looks like the uego is the best for the buck at this point. I have nothing against the innovate, just seems to be easier to hook kup the AEM.

**compnut21** · 5-11-08, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4cylfun

so your saying you can plug up the lc-1, and then use a cheaper afr gauge?

yup. it has two analog outputs, from default one is setup to output 0v-5v and the other emulates a narrowband. im gonna reprogram the other to match whatever the cheap gauge expects, since you can do any voltage to any voltage from any afr to any afr.

if your more a visual person like me this can help.

**fredio54** · 5-12-08, 5:47

Innovate is way fast. They have a patented measuring technique that allows that to be the case. The manual warns you of it being too fast for some ECUs and explains how to slow it down with in built averaging. Your eyes are way slower than the innovate/sensor anyway. It's only useful for datalogging...

I'm curious to hear how AEM go about not requiring a calibration. The sensors DO drift, and calibration seems to me like it should be required no matter the controller. Hopefully they don't try to do some automated calibration with it still in the exhaust. That would not be accurate.

I'm going to have a read up on them.

**fredio54** · 5-12-08, 6:03

Quote:

Each AEM UEGO sensor is individually calibrated and a resistor integral to the connector body is laser trimmed with this value. This process replaces the traditional “free air” calibration procedure when changing sensors and implements a sensor specific calibration for unparalleled accuracy.

Interesting. That means it uses a proprietary sensor and plug rather than the industry standard one. That could be a pain if you aren't in a place where AEM have good distributors etc. You effectively can not calibrate it if you are ever forced to use the bosch or ntk sensor and not theirs. I'd also seriously question whether it is still accurate after significant wear and tear.

Still, LC-1 and AEM were the only two that were even close to accurate in that wbo2 shoot out done a while back.

I guy I know has bought, assembled and is using a JAW however, and those are soooo much cheaper again. I'm gunna try one some time for sure.

Fred.

EDIT : manual URL : www.347stang.com/files/30-230X.pdf

**4cylfun** · 5-13-08, 17:14

well truthfully there aren't a lot of import shops at all here. Actually i can't think of one.

A few miles from here are all the racing shops but they all specialize in drag racing stuff. Mostly suits, helmets, motorcycle exhaust and some other stuff. I haven't really found one that does import items.

There's even the john force building.

**4cylfun** · 5-13-08, 17:17

Interesting read indeed, do most of your have two separate o2 sensors. One for the ecu and one for your gauge or do you simply have to have the wideband farther away from the engine than the narrowband?

**compnut21** · 5-13-08, 19:07

i only have one, but it has two outputs. one for my ecu and one will go to the gauge.

**fredio54** · 5-14-08, 2:12

wideband MUST be far from turbo/engine or it will overheat when you give it hell. narrow band MUST be close to the engine or it will never run hot enough to be accurate. run both or do what nuts did.

**compnut21** · 5-14-08, 23:39

personally i think a wideband emulating a narrowband would still result in better gas millage (shorter warm up time, more accurate at being inaccurate)

SixSick6 · 5-15-08, 0:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by compnut21

yup. it has two analog outputs, from default one is setup to output 0v-5v and the other emulates a narrowband. im gonna reprogram the other to match whatever the cheap gauge expects, since you can do any voltage to any voltage from any afr to any afr.

if your more a visual person like me this can help.

Here is all the info you need:

http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-for...d-f-ratio.html (Ghettodyne Narrow Band A/F Ratio)

**Goatcrapp** · 5-15-08, 1:38

I like my innovate. good and fast, all that jazz.