Rear lower strut bolt stuck...suggestions? - Page 2

**Zach** · 10-2-08, 13:35

When handling bolts, I personally find it best to run a medium-high speed brass wheel over the threads and shank of the bolt. It cleans them up rather nicely

**PaulG** · 10-2-08, 18:16

True, and use anti-seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.

**I4MX6** · 10-2-08, 18:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT

I would not replace the bolts. I'd use all the old ones which are designed for the job and only replace that one. In fact, I'd buy a used single bolt from someone on the board to replace that last one.

A couple reasons not to replace the bolts with general grade 8 is that the stock bolts have a correct length of non-threaded portions so they are less likely to snap and if you don't fully fill that hole, the strut *could* move up/down on the knuckle.

Also, upon re-installation, first use some high grit sand paper on the smooth part of the bolts and then put a little white lithium or axle grease on them so you never have this issue again.

Only reason I suggested replacing is because I bought mine for $18 total for all new bolts in the exact specs as factory. Brafasco, which is local to me, had the exact ones needed, just a little longer thread, but the non-threaded section is to a T, perfect.

It's not "if it fits and works, it's good enough", it's that it's new, it's overkill, and it's cost effective.

If you can't get them cheap, then just replace it with a used one.

**Fastest95PGT** · 10-2-08, 22:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulG

True, and use anti-seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.

That's what the axle/white lithium I already mentioned is for.

**PaulG** · 10-3-08, 6:51

Right, of course. It's just that I don't use grease for any nuts/bolts unless it's called for. I figure anti-seize is made for this specific purpose. I just have a fear (probably unfounded) that grease might promote the nut backing out, whereas anti-seize probably wouldn't...dumb, I know.

**Fastest95PGT** · 10-3-08, 8:19

It's all good Paul. I understand your concern and don't disagree. If I were dealing with something that was very low torque, I probably wouldn't use grease either. In cases like these, I use grease because I want to lubricate the threads while running the nut back through them.

I don't recall if anti-seeze has much of a lubricating quality, plus you'd have to use quite a bit even if it did.

lattimus · 10-6-08, 3:28

I haven't changed the bolt since I didn't like the idea of replacing a part with something that just fit from my local hardware shop. I had a bolt off a Honda Civic I tested and it was way too loose for comfort. I did clean off some of the residue off the old bolt with brake cleaner and applied some PB Blaster before reinstalling it. I'll sand it down and add a little axle grease. The anti-seize was the culprit. With all the rust and anti-seize it stuck like glue. The bolt and the hole on the rear wheel hub was layered silly with it. Too much anti-seize isn't a good thing! I used to have to thread bolts on a industrial compression oven making different sized fiberglass insulators for mufflers. Those bolts were under high heat and compression to get the correct diameter. Rust would form over the day on the bolts since starch was used to keep the shape on the product. It was like a speedy oxidation process. The anti-seize helped but the bolts would still get stuck. I think heat has a lot to do with what happened to the bolt since it was a southern car that got moved into the cold Tundras of Wisconsin. That's why I'm sticking with grease. It wont cake up like anti-seize under heat.

**4cylfun** · 10-7-08, 22:16

i'm just curious about this, and don't take this offensively but why did you apply heat after you got the bolt out.

If i had that much trouble getting the bolt out but got it out without messing it up i would just use a file, or ratt or hell even a dremel with a tungsten shaving bit. Stick it in the sleeve that the bolt slides through and clean it up a little. Granted this would effectively changing the diameter of the hole but i've never had a bolt budge. You figure it has the weight of the car on that corner so you have at least 500 pounds pressing down on it. Makes it a bit hard for the bolt to back out. That and if its torque'd to what is specified i don't really see the problem. Aside from just sanding down the hole when is the next time your really going to need that bolt out.

Just buy a new bolt, torque it and move on. Thats just my two cents.

lattimus · 10-15-08, 17:09

I think you may have me misunderstood. " I ," don't intend to apply heat to it. I'm saying over time from "environmental conditions," since it may take a while before I get back to that problem. Especially since I gotta rework the body because of some blind old sideswiper. I am going to get new hubs & calipers. That's why I rather just fit the old one till then. I agree that the weigh of the car also played into that. I've had problems with bolt rusted out and seized all the time when I worked in a garage on old Hondas & Toyotas. I'd just quickly say bansai and slice'em off. So I don't know if right thing to do would be getting a new bolt. That would take all the fun outta it. The torque hasn't always worked for me either. I seen someone strain so hard he pass out & bust his tooth on his turboed freshly painted candy blue CRX that was all kitted & suped up. That was like 10 seconds later when the blood rushed back. It left a pretty good chipped dent. BTW Yes the right thing to do would be getting a new bolt. I just developed a natural fear of going to the dealers for OEM parts.

10-2-08, 18:16	#17 (permalink)
PaulG Join Date: May 2004 Location: Ottawa, Canada Age: 33 iTrader: (1)	True, and use anti-seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.
	1997 MX-6 LS

10-3-08, 6:51	#20 (permalink)
PaulG Join Date: May 2004 Location: Ottawa, Canada Age: 33 iTrader: (1)	Right, of course. It's just that I don't use grease for any nuts/bolts unless it's called for. I figure anti-seize is made for this specific purpose. I just have a fear (probably unfounded) that grease might promote the nut backing out, whereas anti-seize probably wouldn't...dumb, I know.
	1997 MX-6 LS

10-3-08, 8:19	#21 (permalink)
Fastest95PGT Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: In ur house killing ur d00ds, MaPOC Age: 28 iTrader: (2)	It's all good Paul. I understand your concern and don't disagree. If I were dealing with something that was very low torque, I probably wouldn't use grease either. In cases like these, I use grease because I want to lubricate the threads while running the nut back through them. I don't recall if anti-seeze has much of a lubricating quality, plus you'd have to use quite a bit even if it did.
	Jeff ~ 1995 PGT ZE-T MSnS-E v3 (317whp @ 8.5psi / 275whp @ 5.5psi) PARTING A LOT OF 2g STUFF

10-6-08, 3:28	#22 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	I haven't changed the bolt since I didn't like the idea of replacing a part with something that just fit from my local hardware shop. I had a bolt off a Honda Civic I tested and it was way too loose for comfort. I did clean off some of the residue off the old bolt with brake cleaner and applied some PB Blaster before reinstalling it. I'll sand it down and add a little axle grease. The anti-seize was the culprit. With all the rust and anti-seize it stuck like glue. The bolt and the hole on the rear wheel hub was layered silly with it. Too much anti-seize isn't a good thing! I used to have to thread bolts on a industrial compression oven making different sized fiberglass insulators for mufflers. Those bolts were under high heat and compression to get the correct diameter. Rust would form over the day on the bolts since starch was used to keep the shape on the product. It was like a speedy oxidation process. The anti-seize helped but the bolts would still get stuck. I think heat has a lot to do with what happened to the bolt since it was a southern car that got moved into the cold Tundras of Wisconsin. That's why I'm sticking with grease. It wont cake up like anti-seize under heat. Last edited by lattimus : 10-6-08 at 3:55. Reason: Missed last post

10-7-08, 22:16	#23 (permalink)
4cylfun Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 26 iTrader: (3)	i'm just curious about this, and don't take this offensively but why did you apply heat after you got the bolt out. If i had that much trouble getting the bolt out but got it out without messing it up i would just use a file, or ratt or hell even a dremel with a tungsten shaving bit. Stick it in the sleeve that the bolt slides through and clean it up a little. Granted this would effectively changing the diameter of the hole but i've never had a bolt budge. You figure it has the weight of the car on that corner so you have at least 500 pounds pressing down on it. Makes it a bit hard for the bolt to back out. That and if its torque'd to what is specified i don't really see the problem. Aside from just sanding down the hole when is the next time your really going to need that bolt out. Just buy a new bolt, torque it and move on. Thats just my two cents.
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny '74 Kawasaki S1-C 250 Triple 2 stroke '75 Honda CB360 with a blowd up engine YES, 40 dollars S+H used pistons, cylinders, valves, and another cyl head. I can't wait to see this thing live. I've never once actually seen it run before.

10-2-08, 13:35	#16 (permalink)
Zach All aboard the B& V& Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Age: 32 iTrader: (8)	When handling bolts, I personally find it best to run a medium-high speed brass wheel over the threads and shank of the bolt. It cleans them up rather nicely

10-15-08, 17:09	#24 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	I think you may have me misunderstood. " I ," don't intend to apply heat to it. I'm saying over time from "environmental conditions," since it may take a while before I get back to that problem. Especially since I gotta rework the body because of some blind old sideswiper. I am going to get new hubs & calipers. That's why I rather just fit the old one till then. I agree that the weigh of the car also played into that. I've had problems with bolt rusted out and seized all the time when I worked in a garage on old Hondas & Toyotas. I'd just quickly say bansai and slice'em off. So I don't know if right thing to do would be getting a new bolt. That would take all the fun outta it. The torque hasn't always worked for me either. I seen someone strain so hard he pass out & bust his tooth on his turboed freshly painted candy blue CRX that was all kitted & suped up. That was like 10 seconds later when the blood rushed back. It left a pretty good chipped dent. BTW Yes the right thing to do would be getting a new bolt. I just developed a natural fear of going to the dealers for OEM parts.