Rear lower strut bolt stuck...suggestions?

lattimus · 9-27-08, 16:15

I've been changing the struts and shocks. I've got 3 installed and I can't seem to get the bottom bolt off. I tried pounding it out with a hammer. Jacking+pounding. Pry with a screw driver and then larger pry. Can't seem to get that bolt out and I'm about to cut the bolt since I have a replacement. Is there any else with this problem?

**Zach** · 9-27-08, 17:05

PB Blaster and Air Tools are your friends.

**I4MX6** · 9-27-08, 21:04

^If that doesn't work, use lots of heat and air tools. Should come loose after that.

**chaos14** · 9-28-08, 20:22

PCP and a wrench

**PaulG** · 9-28-08, 20:30

Did you get the bolt out?? I'm assuming you got the nut off and the bolt isn't spinning or backing out?

lattimus · 9-28-08, 21:16

Well, I going to try some PB Blaster and leave it on there for a few hours. The stuff is a penetrating catalyst claims to eat through a styrofoam cup within two minutes.

**cf_z** · 9-28-08, 23:02

gasoline will eat thru a styrafoam cup in about 20 seconds..

but i had that exact problem when i did my springs. the one bolt on the back just would not move. tried heat, huge ass leverage bars, everything. nothing worked.

brought it to a friends shop with an impact (and a good wall mounted spring compressor, not the [shizzle]ty rental type..) and got the whole job done in about an hour.

lattimus · 9-29-08, 2:32

PB Blast didn't work. I even tried jacking a wrench. That s@#$ didn't move for nothing. I don't have my torch on hand but I'm gonna torch it up tomorrow and use an impact. I wanted to avoid messing with the brakes but I'm gonna remove that also so I can get to the bolt. If I resort to my last option I'll be taking offers on 3 good Tokicos Blues and one damaged one.

**PaulG** · 9-29-08, 9:29

Just split the nut using a nut splitter and you're laughing...I wouldn't waste anymore time on it if I was in that situation. I just did my front tie rods, stabilizer links and control arms, and had to do it for the crown nut on the outer tie rod, and on the inner tie rod jam nut...just do it and get it over with bro.

lattimus · 9-29-08, 21:05

I didn't manage to do much about that stupid bolt today but stare at it. Ended up greasing up my mounts and grinding one of the top mounts that came with the coilovers since it didn't fit into the strut right and was clunking everytime I turned the wheel. But I did get a hold a buddy I know who owns a tire shop since I needed to change my tires also. I'll be hauling that there sometime tomorrow. I'll get that thing out one way or another. I didn't even think about splitting it. Karma to you.

lattimus · 9-30-08, 20:00

I ended using a very high compression impact gun at the tire shop. The bolt was seized pretty tightly but took the bolt right out in 5 minutes. I guess tools make all the difference. Now just gotta reassemble my rear brakes. Karma to all.

**I4MX6** · 10-1-08, 12:11

I would head to a hardware shop and get 8 new bolts to install your suspension with. Something like a grade 8.8 or higher. Might as well do it right the first time.

lattimus · 10-2-08, 2:56

Yeah I know I should replace the bolts. Hate to go through all that again. Thanks for the help.

**Fastest95PGT** · 10-2-08, 9:07

I would not replace the bolts. I'd use all the old ones which are designed for the job and only replace that one. In fact, I'd buy a used single bolt from someone on the board to replace that last one.

A couple reasons not to replace the bolts with general grade 8 is that the stock bolts have a correct length of non-threaded portions so they are less likely to snap and if you don't fully fill that hole, the strut *could* move up/down on the knuckle.

Also, upon re-installation, first use some high grit sand paper on the smooth part of the bolts and then put a little white lithium or axle grease on them so you never have this issue again.

**tyler886** · 10-2-08, 13:30

I agree with Jeff, its the right way to do it. But then again, most people seem to have the attitude "if it fits and works, its good enough" around here.

-Tyler

9-27-08, 16:15	#1 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	Rear lower strut bolt stuck...suggestions? I've been changing the struts and shocks. I've got 3 installed and I can't seem to get the bottom bolt off. I tried pounding it out with a hammer. Jacking+pounding. Pry with a screw driver and then larger pry. Can't seem to get that bolt out and I'm about to cut the bolt since I have a replacement. Is there any else with this problem?

9-27-08, 21:04	#3 (permalink)
I4MX6 Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Barrie, Canada iTrader: (0)	^If that doesn't work, use lots of heat and air tools. Should come loose after that.
	-Matt- 1994 Mazda MX6 LS, Infiniti G35 HID conversion, 2.5" Magnaflow cat-back, 3" CAI, 16x8" FD RX7 wheels, LEDA Custom True Coilovers, shaved body and full repaint, Genuine Mazdaspeed Kit, '03 Protege rear caliper conversion, and much, much more...

9-28-08, 20:22	#4 (permalink)
chaos14 Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: cleveland, OH Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	PCP and a wrench
	In order to find his equal, an Irishman is forced to talk to God.

9-28-08, 20:30	#5 (permalink)
PaulG Join Date: May 2004 Location: Ottawa, Canada Age: 33 iTrader: (1)	Did you get the bolt out?? I'm assuming you got the nut off and the bolt isn't spinning or backing out?
	1997 MX-6 LS

9-28-08, 23:02	#7 (permalink)
cf_z Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Indiana, USA Age: 18 iTrader: (14)	gasoline will eat thru a styrafoam cup in about 20 seconds.. but i had that exact problem when i did my springs. the one bolt on the back just would not move. tried heat, huge ass leverage bars, everything. nothing worked. brought it to a friends shop with an impact (and a good wall mounted spring compressor, not the [shizzle]ty rental type..) and got the whole job done in about an hour.
	MY SIX, since-day-one. WTB:2g Rear Sway bar & Strut Bar PM me. g-meter'd at 65 HP haller.

9-27-08, 17:05	#2 (permalink)
Zach All aboard the B& V& Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Age: 32 iTrader: (8)	PB Blaster and Air Tools are your friends.

9-28-08, 21:16	#6 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	Well, I going to try some PB Blaster and leave it on there for a few hours. The stuff is a penetrating catalyst claims to eat through a styrofoam cup within two minutes.

9-29-08, 2:32	#8 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	PB Blast didn't work. I even tried jacking a wrench. That s@#$ didn't move for nothing. I don't have my torch on hand but I'm gonna torch it up tomorrow and use an impact. I wanted to avoid messing with the brakes but I'm gonna remove that also so I can get to the bolt. If I resort to my last option I'll be taking offers on 3 good Tokicos Blues and one damaged one. Last edited by lattimus : 9-29-08 at 2:36.

9-29-08, 9:29	#9 (permalink)
PaulG Join Date: May 2004 Location: Ottawa, Canada Age: 33 iTrader: (1)	Just split the nut using a nut splitter and you're laughing...I wouldn't waste anymore time on it if I was in that situation. I just did my front tie rods, stabilizer links and control arms, and had to do it for the crown nut on the outer tie rod, and on the inner tie rod jam nut...just do it and get it over with bro.
	1997 MX-6 LS

9-29-08, 21:05	#10 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	I didn't manage to do much about that stupid bolt today but stare at it. Ended up greasing up my mounts and grinding one of the top mounts that came with the coilovers since it didn't fit into the strut right and was clunking everytime I turned the wheel. But I did get a hold a buddy I know who owns a tire shop since I needed to change my tires also. I'll be hauling that there sometime tomorrow. I'll get that thing out one way or another. I didn't even think about splitting it. Karma to you.

9-30-08, 20:00	#11 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	I ended using a very high compression impact gun at the tire shop. The bolt was seized pretty tightly but took the bolt right out in 5 minutes. I guess tools make all the difference. Now just gotta reassemble my rear brakes. Karma to all.

10-1-08, 12:11	#12 (permalink)
I4MX6 Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Barrie, Canada iTrader: (0)	I would head to a hardware shop and get 8 new bolts to install your suspension with. Something like a grade 8.8 or higher. Might as well do it right the first time.
	-Matt- 1994 Mazda MX6 LS, Infiniti G35 HID conversion, 2.5" Magnaflow cat-back, 3" CAI, 16x8" FD RX7 wheels, LEDA Custom True Coilovers, shaved body and full repaint, Genuine Mazdaspeed Kit, '03 Protege rear caliper conversion, and much, much more...

10-2-08, 2:56	#13 (permalink)
lattimus Join Date: May 2008 Location: Green Bay, WI, USA Age: 28 iTrader: (0)	Yeah I know I should replace the bolts. Hate to go through all that again. Thanks for the help.

10-2-08, 9:07	#14 (permalink)
Fastest95PGT Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: In ur house killing ur d00ds, MaPOC Age: 28 iTrader: (2)	I would not replace the bolts. I'd use all the old ones which are designed for the job and only replace that one. In fact, I'd buy a used single bolt from someone on the board to replace that last one. A couple reasons not to replace the bolts with general grade 8 is that the stock bolts have a correct length of non-threaded portions so they are less likely to snap and if you don't fully fill that hole, the strut could move up/down on the knuckle. Also, upon re-installation, first use some high grit sand paper on the smooth part of the bolts and then put a little white lithium or axle grease on them so you never have this issue again.
	Jeff ~ 1995 PGT ZE-T MSnS-E v3 (317whp @ 8.5psi / 275whp @ 5.5psi) PARTING A LOT OF 2g STUFF

10-2-08, 13:30	#15 (permalink)
tyler886 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Long Islands Cousin iTrader: (0)	I agree with Jeff, its the right way to do it. But then again, most people seem to have the attitude "if it fits and works, its good enough" around here. -Tyler
	- "An Intense Commitment of Your Total Satisfaction" - Mazda - The Overhaul 1989 MX-6 GT All-Original 59k 1994 Eddie Bauer Bronco - 351W w/ E4OD Need Brake Pads for a car or truck?