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Old 12-13-08, 18:15   #1 (permalink)

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How to install GD suspension in the GC part 2 - Front conversion

Ok,

With the rear end generally behaving itself after the install in part 1, I still need to do a rear wheel alignment, as I can tell one side has a bit too much toe in from driving it. Its time to start part 2, the front.

The rear alignment is not a serious problem, and I'll tackle all that once I have the front done, and I am happy with the ride height at both ends of the car, all of these things will have an impact on the wheel alignment, so I might as well hold off until then.

I have been fitting new wheel bearings into my 26 spline GD hubs, I have collected nearly all the parts I need to get started, including some more 5 stud wheels.

The big dilemma now is what do about the driveshafts. I have discovered that while the GC shaft fits into a GD 26 spline hub, the seal will not make contact with the outer joint.



The dimension across the end of the GC shaft is 52mm while the GD one is 55.5mm

The non splined part of the shaft is 28mm on a GC and 30mm on a GD, but this is less of a problem.

I could use the GC shaft temporarily, but without the seal doing its job it'll let dirt and water in.....and I would rather not take that risk.

So I am going to make some hybrid shafts...my options are :

1. see if a GD 26 spline shaft can be used in its entirety....I forgot to measure the gearbox end of one this morning if the gearbox end is the same as a GC one maybe this will be the easiest option.

2. if that doesnt work, I can try to fit GC in board joints (which I have) to some GD 26 spline shafts. On Factory shafts the outer ends are not removable, only the in board ones are.

3. as I am running after market shafts in the car at present, on those the out board joints are removable, I could go to the place where I bought them and just buy some GD out board joints and fit them to my GC after market shafts.

4. this is a long shot and possibly not going to happen in the time frame I need....but I could fit the Quaife G-type LSD that I have sitting in thr cupboard to my GC G-type gearbox (assuming I can fit it) then convert the whole thing to 28 spline axles. from the turbo GD....I have all the parts I need for that already as spares for my other car except the intermediate shaft.

As most of the places are shutting down for Christmas here, I wont be doing to many updates until mid January....

Unless I can fit a GD 26 spline shaft, and I can find an Oz member who has some they dont mind parting with for not much $ nearby.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 1-9-09, 20:05   #2 (permalink)

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Update

I have been collecting the parts to finish the front. Things have been going more slowly than I'd like, I have had to stop this project to fix a blown turbo gasket....However I have made some more discoveries along the way.

Driveshafts :

The F2 NA driveshafts wont fit, they are too long by about 10mm each. This doesnt suprise me as the strut towers are 25mm further apart on the GD compared to the GC.

So hybrid driveshafts are going to be the go. I have had a chat with the place where I buy my aftermarket shafts, and they are going to make me some hybrid shafts with the GC inboard CV, GC axle shaft and GD F2 NA outboard CV.

At the same time I am going to grab some 28 spline outer housings for the inboard CVs ( apparently theyre a straight swap for the 26 spline ones, on the after market shaft I am using ) so that When I install a Quaife LSD (or go to an H-type gearbox) I will have the parts ready. On a side note I have already started a Quaife install into one of my spare gearboxes, thanks to RodHog for some spare gearbox parts, and Ftjandra (club protege) for information and advice on fitting. see this thread, but its been far from smooth sailing: Bolt specifications for attaching Quaife LSD to ring gear - Club Protege


Front Springs :

I thought the GD springs would fit into my GC strut tower tops....I was wrong.

The GC spring is tapered, the GD is not. The good thing is that it looks like I can temporarily use the GC spring with the GD strut, until I can have some custom ones made up.

I have also bought some FC RX7 stock wheels, why, largely personal taste, I wanted to keep the appearance in keeping with the era the car was built.

They are also fairly light weight 16x7 with the right off set of +41 (+/- 1mm)



I thought about FDs, bought a set, then decided I didnt like the look...The might end up on the GD....

Photos of the install and parts in the next update (probably two weeks away, I have to wait until I get paid to do the axles)

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 1-11-09, 17:45   #3 (permalink)
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Chief you could try dry ice freezing the LSD back plate as well as heating the ring gear.

It still might mot work though as you are trying to make an .008" press fit on only a 6" diameter.
Which is never going to be easy.

At work we usually go for a .001" press per 1" of diameter.
And even then sometimes it doesn't work out if the machining of the 2 parts have been done on days with different ambient temps.

VF12 - VJ11 hybrid http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-for...ic-inside.html 5 1/4" VDO splits in custom door trims http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 12" sub in custom boot/trunk http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-app...cs-inside.html 2.5" cat back, 18"x12"x3" FMIC.
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Old 2-3-09, 3:15   #4 (permalink)

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update

At last an update (of sorts)

I received my hybrid driveshafts, consisting of a GD outer, GC Axle shaft and 26 spline inner (seems GD and GC are pretty much the same in that regard, both using a G series gearbox in the NA)



I already installed the right side components, thats why there is the left side hybrid and the right side standard GC in the photo.

I will do the left side tomorrow, but the combination that works is as follows :

GD Hub + rotor + caliper + pads
GD strut
GC spring
GC strut tower top
Hybrid drive shafts, which is essentially a GC shaft with a GD outer joint

There it is done on the RH side



I couldnt step backwards any further to capture any more in the photo, my garage is pretty small.

The wheel is actually the spare of my other car for now, just so I could lower the car to the ground to reposition it to do the other side (tomorrow)

I also purchased 28 spline inner side cups to fit my hybrid drive shafts, so that when I finish the gearbox with the Quaife LSD, I will have my solution for the driveshafts already sorted.



The end result will be a 28 spline inner with 26 spline everything else.

I plan to use the GD turbo intermediate shaft which is 28 spline with that to make it all work, I am assuming the GD and GC intermediate shafts are the same length at this stage.
I'll take some measurements to check. if its not and too far different to tolerate, I will have a custom one made.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 2-3-09, 5:17   #5 (permalink)
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Nice work chief!

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Old 2-5-09, 3:57   #6 (permalink)

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update, left side done with more pics

Today I did the left side.....and it seemed like nothing was going right...coupled with 30degC temps and about 80% humidity, It was a struggle.

Things started well, getting the axle nut off :



There is the old setup



strut out



I removed the knuckle and brake assembly, this is where things started going pear shaped.
I could not removed the drive shaft from the gearbox. After I said in another thread that I have never had a left side shaft get stuck...I jinxed myself, this one was stuck and would not budge. I bent my pry bar trying.
At this point I figured it was possible to leave the inner cup in the gearbox and swap the rest seeing as how it should be the same...but I wasted half an hour working that out.

no pics, covered in grease, not happy, maybe would have embedded the camera in the brick wall.

With the drive shaft problem out of the way it was time to disassemble the strut...no probs there, konis are good in so far as the centre rod has an internal hex which makes it easy to remove the strut top..so I compressed the spring...all too easy.

I stuck the new shock in the vise to get ready to fit all the stuff....I find this is the best way to do it.



I stuck the whole lot together then to realise I forgot the dust boot and bump stop...aaargh....heat was probably affecting my brain.



So strut top back off again to fit the dust boot and bump stop



The new Boge struts had a more annoying attachment, meaning I had to make a tool to stop the rod from spinning while I did up the nut to hold the strut top on....if only all shocks were like konis.

At this point I decided to bolt the new hub and disc in place



In doing so, I discovered that the outer tie rod didn't seem to fit to the knuckle properly as it didnt poke through far enough so the hole for the split pin would be be exposed enough for the split pin.....I vaguely remember something about pulling a knuckle and tie rod from the junkyard and finding that the tie rod had a smaller taper than usual and trying to use the tie rod as a replacement resulted in it being waaay loose...this must have been the knuckle it came off....couldnt find the tie rod to swap on, but I know I have it somewhere.
So I reversed the castle nut, I was lucky the holes lined up and I was able to get a split pin inserted...not ideal, but It'll do for now

Ok...now its time to fit the strut



Dont forget to use the GD bolts, the GC ones are not long enough. Thankfully I have piles of the that stuff, a big box full of Mazda bolts.

I decided to try to fit my goodridge brake lines, with the caliper, thanks to Jesiotrot, the solution to attach the hose the strut with the incorrect ferrule position worked. I tried it a few days ago on the right side, and couldnt work out how it was going to work, I re used the OEM line, but I will swap it out too.

I am just using standard GD calipers (which I have piles of) for now, I have some Subaru Legacy calipers coming, but the guy who I bought them off lives in an area thats currently flooded, so there is nothing going in out out of his town.....I'll put them on when the arrive, so long as theyre not water logged.

I filled the gearbox with oil (too bad I didnt need to take the oil out thanks to the inner drive shaft cup getting stuck) and drove the car out.



The wheels are just temporary for now while I test it out...There is so much toe in, you can see it, wheel alignment needed.....but thats a job for tomorrow, now its time for beer.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 2-5-09, 23:20   #7 (permalink)

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more updates

I fixed the wheel alignment today, seems to drive OK.

plus I fitted to Goodridge SS brake line to the RH side.

There is however a problem with a mysterious clunk coming from the front suspension somewhere...I rechecked everything for tightness except the tower tops...I'll do that tomorrow, but its only a problem over small sudden bumps like potholes, its fine over speed humps....

Other than that it seems to be OK.

Next on the list is to have the rear springs reset, to bring the ride height back down to where it was prior to the GD suspension going in. I am happy with the stiffness (wire diameter) of the GD sedan springs theyre a bigger wire dia than GC ones.

The front springs probably need to be stiffer, SO I will get some custom ones made up....its going to be hard to find anything off the shelf to suit what I have done.

Next is to sort out the wheels and tyres, then pass the yearly inspection in a few weeks

After that I'll start a thread on the gearbox LSD install.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 2-9-09, 5:50   #8 (permalink)

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fantastic work!!

I love it.

Teh Telstar can NEVAH lose!
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Old 2-26-09, 0:47   #9 (permalink)

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For anyone who was wondering what the mysterious clunk was, it turned out to be two things.

There were two bolts holding part of the sub frame together which were not just finger tight but partially out, I suspect the exhaust shop that put my SS 2.5 inch system on 12months ago, forgot to do up the bolts when they unbolted part of the subframe to access the exhaust pipe.

The second thing looks to be a stuffed fire wall side gearbox mount.

I cant get an AWR replacement for this as its quite different to the GD NA type, so I might send it away and have it filled with urethane, the next best thing...but that means a week or two off the road.

Other than that the FC RX7 wheels are fitted with 225/45/16 tyres, which only just fit, clearance wise all round.

I have also fitted the Subaru Legacy twin pot calipers with new Bendix brake pads

Pics soon

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 2-26-09, 13:17   #10 (permalink)

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pics or ban...you know it goes around here

88 626 4WS Turbo Noble White
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Old 2-26-09, 13:36   #11 (permalink)

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Ahhh...no pressure....I'll take some this arvo and put them up

Here is one by my crappy work camera in the basement at the office



Here is a better shot



And the Legacy calipers fitted


Last edited by chief tool; 2-27-09 at 1:03.. Reason: pics added

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 9-26-11, 2:48   #12 (permalink)
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Old thread I know, but awesome stuff.

Did this change the track width at all?
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Old 9-26-11, 3:24   #13 (permalink)

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I never measured it.....There wouldnt be alot of difference as the subframe and the lower arms were all GC. Which is mostly what decides the track width.

There were a few millimetres of difference, as I needed to wind in a couple of turns of tie rod to get the wheel alignment correct. However I dont know whether its the position of the hub or where the tie rod connects that are different.

I suppose as I have an example of both a GC with stock hubs and GD ones I can measure them, but looking by eye there wouldnt be much in it.

I'll see if I can get some measurements done and post.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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Old 9-26-11, 10:16   #14 (permalink)
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that was definitely a job well done.

1986 626 4dr hatch lx: 2.2l turbo, transmission, spindle, struts, and entire wiring harness out of 1989 mx-6 gt, , BEST TIME 14.54@94MPH 13PSI
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Old 11-24-12, 4:43   #15 (permalink)
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This thread has been awesomely helpful.

I've had an FE3 in my AR telstar for about 5 years now. Ever since day one the brakes have been woeful - fading to nothing almost instantly.

I always thought about going down the 5-stud route for simplicity. The brakes on my GD turbo have always been good so I knew it would be even better on the lighter GC.

Only dilemma I had was the suspension (springs / shocks) was < 2000km old. I didn't want to have to throw away this good stuff and start again. As such I took a slightly different approach. (This is fully assembled & tested on the front, rear will be done soon)

As Chief said the GC struts have a 30mm gap for the steering knuckle to bolt onto. GD units are 35mm thick, so they dont fit. The hole spacing however is identical. I took the GD knuckles down to the local engineering shop and got them to machine 2.5mm off each face (so it ended up even). Cost me $50 total - a bargain compared to new struts. Bolted straight in.

Also I used the existing GC brake lines (fit perfectly, no modifications required). Length, size etc is all spot on. You definitely need a wheel alignment afterwards. I was toeing in about 15mm. Another great part of the conversion is I can use GD steel rims and keep my stock hubcaps.

One last thing - If you are considering this conversion, grab a donor car from the local classifieds etc. Wreckers will absolutely kill you when it comes to buying hubs, brakes etc etc. I got a donor car for $350 and its more than paid for itself twice over compared to buying the parts 'one by one'.
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