Chief Tool's new car - a 1984 Mazda 626 Diesel! - Page 5 - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #61 of 94 (permalink) Old 2-2-12, 23:05
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The TF035HM-6 is a TDO4 13T which is the 2.0L WRX turbo. The 13G was on the Eclipse. They're slightly different but overall the same map.
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post #62 of 94 (permalink) Old 2-3-12, 4:53 Thread Starter

 
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Thats good to know, I was struggling to find any info on it.

I have no idea how it performs on the subaru's as I've never driven one, but the Forester guys complain about the lack of top end.
I can only imagine what a TF035HM-4 is like, but they say its good for passing people on the freeway when your on full boost at 2000rpm!

We'll see how it goes on a diesel...maybe if I get the time to get it done, things have changed since I changed jobs.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #63 of 94 (permalink) Old 2-3-12, 11:57
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief tool View Post
Thats good to know, I was struggling to find any info on it.

I have no idea how it performs on the subaru's as I've never driven one, but the Forester guys complain about the lack of top end.
I can only imagine what a TF035HM-4 is like, but they say its good for passing people on the freeway when your on full boost at 2000rpm!

We'll see how it goes on a diesel...maybe if I get the time to get it done, things have changed since I changed jobs.
It's got good top end if tuned right.

It's not as good as the Pre MY97 model WRx's or similar or even later XT forresters. But TD04 model WRX - And GT Forrsters. Well in WRX form you only notice I think on Bug eye models but then again I noticed on them the smoother delivery. On all Forresters I've driven all turbo ones. I personally think it's the weight and gearing that makes them feel softer at top end over other cars. You know B4 Lib twins we got here for short bit. Well I found them Fun but annoying. Well that model felt more chocked then a 99 GT.
I've driven a 01 GT with mods MRT enhanced crap cooler exhuast retune. Other then IMO lack of grip due to suspension being stock and tyres average. Was no different to 90% of exhausted chipped Wrx's. but you felt the weight.

But I'd like to see what a late model turbo off a last mazda /3 deisel even the 2.0L model how it would go on yours? Or similar - I think it would be interesting.

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post #64 of 94 (permalink) Old 2-3-12, 17:27 Thread Starter

 
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I would need to wind the boost back, the CRD motors run 30-40psi

I dont think my pre chamber head would take very kindly to that. There are stories of people running up to 20psi reliably but after that....head failures are common.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #65 of 94 (permalink) Old 5-4-12, 7:45
 
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How goes the Diesel mate. Don't tell me you've been doing nothing! You'll have changed, or swapped, or fixed something.
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post #66 of 94 (permalink) Old 5-4-12, 19:15 Thread Starter

 
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I haven't been doing nothing that is for sure. But I haven't done anything on this car except drive it.
I had to change a head gasket on my other GC, so did a timing belt a few other things while I was there. I've also been parting out my GD.
Both those things have kept me pretty busy.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #67 of 94 (permalink) Old 8-21-12, 0:04 Thread Starter

 
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TF035 hybrid

Ok, it's been a while since there has been any action on this.

I've been busy at my new job and as usual there have been a million other things going on including some minor restoration work on the other GC.

However I havem moved a tiny step closer thanks to Jesiotrot;

I now am the proud owner of a TF035HM-4/VF14 hybrid turbo.
So it is possible to put one together...I dont know how it will work as a turbo on my RF diesel engine, this is something I need to find out.

Construction was relatively straighforward; the TF035-4 exhaust hosuing was bored slightly for the VF14 exhaust wheel.
There was a taper on the exhaust side of the VF14 CHRA that I didnt notice originally which needed to be ground down as the TF035 CHRA is parallel.

Anyway here are some pics;









I still need to clock both the housings as the exhaust manifold I am using is set up for a top mount although there is a slight tilt off horizontal.
I also want to try and aim the outlet of the compressor straight into the inlet manifold opening. I also need to figure out how my wastegate is going to connect, and whether I really need one at all.

I just need to clear a space on my work bench now and I can start on that and making the adapter plate.

I'll see how I go for time as I am also working on the other car.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #68 of 94 (permalink) Old 9-20-12, 9:22 Thread Starter

 
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Adapter plate.....

Ok, this is a slow process doing maybe 4 hours a week.....

Making the adapter plate, I didnt have space to mock up the whole motor, so I bolted a spare head to my work bench.

I normally wouldn't be in favour of drilling holes in my work bench but in this case it seemed there was no easy way around this problem. The head really needed to be bolted to something heavy so it didnt move about. Without a nice cast iron block to weigh it down the work bench was the next best thing.

So... I took my offcut piece of 1/2" thick steel plate...and I needed to make a template to drill the holes to match the locating pins.

One of the most useful things I ever learned in school when I was about 7, was tracing..... here is how you make a template.



Now just cut along the lines, as for the round holes you can use the back end of a drill bit that has a tapered end and is just bigger than the hole, its hard to describe how to do this if you have never seen it done. I might post a vid if there are requests.

Next mark out the lines on the steel...ok i missed some pics here, here is the steel marked and me drilling away..



I like to use a small pilot so as to avoid tearing the edges off the drill bit. I also chose a 17mm bit as its the closest to the radius of the corners...but one of the cardinal sins is holes that overlap, this makes it very hard to drill.
I should have used 16mm, but I carefully drilled all 4 at roughly the same rate so that the overlap would be less of an issue...trust me if you have done this before you'll know what I mean.
I filed out what was left and cut through between the holes with a hacksaw.

Here is the result



Not too much mismatch note my plate is slightly bigger than the manifold exit, but in this case I didn't want to let it get any bigger, more on that later.

Ok whats next, forget the blue Texta line for the turbine housing, that was just a guess.
To get the real position I knew the turbine housing inlet would just cover the square hole. To make sure I was accurate I needed a way to rotate the housing around the centre line so I could get the right position on the adapter plate.

I found a GD axle nut was almost the right size to do this, I filed down the part that you "stake" so as it was flush with the nut...then I made up an attachment to allow me to put it on the end of a drill (in the absence of a lathe)

Drill attachment



Yup it's half a lateral link bolt from a GD with 6 flats filed onto it to allow it to fit into a 1/2" chuck. Two wheel nuts provided tapered surfaces to help centre the nut on the bolt.

I then filed the nut down a little to "about" 45mm so it would just allow the hole in the turbine housing to fit over it



I wrapped the hex part in electrical tape until the nut was an interference fit into the hole

Now I could position the turbo so it would point into the hole in the R2 manifold



I had to grind a bit of the inlet manifold for compressor housing clearance



The other issue is that the IHI VF14 only allows for 6 positions for the compressor outlet. It looks like I will be re drilling and tapping the holes.

I also plan to male up an inlet manifold flange which will be welded to the compressor outlet.

This pic shows how much space I have to play with



More to come, once I get some more time.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #69 of 94 (permalink) Old 9-25-12, 21:04

 
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Good to see you're making some progress.

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post #70 of 94 (permalink) Old 4-7-13, 8:13 Thread Starter

 
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some progress - I guess

OK, I haven't made any more progress with the turbo conversion which is a bit annoying, but there has been no time.

I did buy a whole pile of parts from a guy parting his out his diesel 626, one of which was the gearbox.
I was thinking about rebuilding mine as the syncros are not so good on 2nd and 3rd, then this opportunity to purchase another gearbox came up.

I have always been suspicious of the ratios however, as my car does not seem to follow any of the documentation about the ratios it is supposed to have.

This spare gearbox I bought came from the GC series II i.e. post July '85. I did not think there would be anything different from the gearbox in my '84 model. I was wrong.
Here are some of the issues.
My WSM (which is a reprint of the factory one) says the gearbox has the same ratios as the 2.0L gas model. However I know this is not right as I have had several of those and the speeds in the gears don't match.

Gas 2.0L ratios :

1st: 3.307
2nd: 1.833
3rd: 1.233
4th: 0.970
5th: 0.795
Final 3.85

The GD chassis cars with an NA RF diesel all use the same ratios as what is found in an F8 engined GC. This I do know.

On checking this gearbox from an '85 model RF engined 626 I found that it seems to have the same gear ratios as the GD diesels.

1st: 3.307
2nd:1.833
3rd: 1.233
4th: 0.914
5th: 0.755
Final 3.85



That's with the 5th gear cover off so as to count the teeth to be sure, 45/34 which equates to 0.755.

Curiously my gearbox that is in my car has different ratios.

It would seem that my car has what is essentially a supercharged RF gearbox from a GD but with a 3.85 final.

1st: 3.307
2nd: 1.833
3rd: 1.161
4th: 0.861
5th: 0.680
Final 3.85

It is highly unlikely that it has bee modified from the factory so maybe Mazda found that after releasing the early models it was geared too high.......

After having driven for 1900kms on the highway recently I would have said it wasn't and if anything needed a higher final drive if I was to ever complete the turbo conversion.

If anything I need to keep my existing gearbox for the final result, so I might swap this 85 model one in so as to keep the car driveable while I rebuild the original. Maybe it will be fine with the turbo motor after all as it is the highest geared box available for the diesel GC.

It also goes to show that changes get made by the factory along the model runs without alot of details.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #71 of 94 (permalink) Old 5-25-13, 4:24 Thread Starter

 
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swapping 5th gears....

I thought it might be possible to swap the 5th gear from a GD G series box onto a GC G series box.

Its not possible, the 5th arrangement, shift fork, clutch hub and gears are totally different.

GC type:



GD type:



Ok, so what does this mean for my gearbox work....

I was thinking about building a taller ratio box and maybe adding an LSD and doing all this with my original GC diesel box and using GD parts.

However it looks like I might now need to use a GC bell and GD rear half and shafts.

I can't use the 5th gear out of my original box (0.680) I might need to try and purchase a 0.680 5th to suit a GD G-series box.

Hopefully I can then use my mystery GD G-series 4 speed box to donate its 3.619 final drive.
I might need to pull it apart to see what the first four ratios are, maybe all I need to do is swap the bell housing the shift gate and add a 5th gear.

It seems even simple things are never easy.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #72 of 94 (permalink) Old 6-8-13, 0:53 Thread Starter

 
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The mystery 4 speed box disassembly

I started typing this in and then managed to press the wrong key with my fat fingers and lost the lot.....good times.

I think in future I'll type in notepad and then cut and paste it.

Anyway here we go again cut and pasted from notepad, so much easier as I am not restricted by this 6x4 window......

I wanted to find out whether there was anything apart from the final drive ratio that could be used out of the mystery

4 speed box.

I figured the easiest way to work out what the ratios were was to pull it apart, besides I was curious to find out

whether it was truly a 4 speed box by design or a 5speeder where someone had removed 5th.

The first curious thing, the shift gate is the same as a 5 speeder



That seemed a little odd.

The second thing to make it a 4 speeder by design is that there were spacers where 5th geat was supposed to be but

everything else was as per a 5 speed box



Now for the ratio count

Final drive 76/21 = 3.619 which is good as this was the whole reason I got this thing

1st: 44/12 = 3.666
2nd: 33/18 = 1.833
3rd: 37/30 = 1.233
4th: 32/35 = 0.914

Most are pretty normal except 1st, which looks to be one of the lowest ratios I've seen on a G series.

I would say this box came from a JDM spec capella cargo, possibly with an F8 or even an F6 engine. A heavy underpowered machine is the only explanation I can think of for the low first.

Having had both a 4 speed Gc and an F6 powered one, I can say that a lower 1st and a higher fourth might have been useful
A wagon may also explain the need for bellhousing vents which is another unusal aspect of this box.

Ok, so what are the options. I could use this set, theyre all in good condition and add a 5th of 0.717, which I have. Order a 0.680 5th from europe for a supercharged diesel model, but do I need to swap out first (which means changing the entire primary shaft and pulling all the gears off it)

I plugged all the options into my gear ratio spread sheet:



My current gearbox is the RF 83.

All the options are in Red. I've also included ratios of other diesel and non diesel G series for comparison.

As you can see option 1 is hardly any different except for a higher 2nd, almost not worth bothering about.

From the other options I don't think its worth changing the 1st ratio. 3.666 is not that bad, considering I intend to back this up to my turbo diesel, it might be good thing if the engine is off boost. It will be about the same as the supercharged model.
However the 5th wont be much of an improvement with a 0.717, but it will do temporarily until I can source the 0.680.

I might even see what its like on the road before changing it.

Next step will be to gut my spare GC diesel box and swap the bellhousing on to the back half of this box.

I'll take it to the shop for re assembly as I don't have the pre load tools.

More to come.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #73 of 94 (permalink) Old 6-10-13, 7:09
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Great info you have there on the gearbox's Chief.
Thanks for posting updates on the diesel.
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post #74 of 94 (permalink) Old 6-10-13, 7:58
 
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I agree, some good info.

Still following along.

Jeff ~ 1995 PGT ZE-T MSnS-E v3 (317whp @ 8.5psi / 275whp @ 5.5psi)
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post #75 of 94 (permalink) Old 8-10-13, 4:44
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Nice, love the diesel info, will be watching this one
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