Chief Tool's new car - a 1984 Mazda 626 Diesel! - Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum
Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum User Control Panel
 


» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum > Open Forums > Mazda Family > Mazda 626
Register Home Forum Active Topics Garage Garage Photo Gallery Arcade Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto Loans

Mx6.com is the premier Mazda MX6 Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 4-13-10, 3:58   #1 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
Chief Tool's new car - a 1984 Mazda 626 Diesel!

Yes that's right.....WTF you might ask.

Why would I do it.....its rare, hard to get parts for and a total slug.

I have been on the look out for another car to use as a run around that I can share with a mate of mine while we both do major work on our cars and I wanted :

1. a car that will cost very little in parts...I have spare GC parts to build another car, so thats a tick. (all except the motor)
2. a car thats cheap to run.....diesel fuel economy is great, so thats a tick
3. a car that wont have an issue sitting around for months not being used and will still start and run when needed, this is where a diesel car is good as the fuel does not evaporate in a hot place like Australia.

The down side is that with 20kw at the wheels (apparently there is a Member of Mazda 626.net who owned one and put his on the dyno) : Aussie 626 Diesel - Mazda626 Forums

Mine is similar to this except its metallic green (faded) with a beige (yuk) interior)

its got no rust and mechanically in ok shape for a 26 year old car, but now where near as good as my other GC with the turbo engine.

Here some pics of my new diesel GC









It was a country vehicle so its full of dust, stone chips and sun damage.

We will see how things pan out....but so far I bought the car for $550 on ebay....I dont really want to spend too much coin on it, I dont want it to become another project car (or at least not yet) I need to spend my time and budget on the others first.
But I do need to do something about the slug-ness

I looked at getting an RF-CX supercharged diesel from the GD.... I was bidding on one on ebay, but then the price went stupid, so I let it go. I wasnt really sure I wanted the comprex motor anyway, I would rather the turbo version.

Another option, is LPG injection. In Australia, there is a regulatory quirk where the govt gives a rebate for any car converted to run on LPG (which is about 90% propane here but can vary with butane added depending on ambient temps).
I have read into the technology and you can gain up to 30% more torque by adding LPG which burns the excess air in a diesel (i'll post something about the science in the information thread : http://www.mx6.com/forums/626-genera...ml#post2302548 )

I might do this for now, as it will make the car a bit more driveable.

its specified with 49kW and 127Nm....thats worse than my F6 engined GC , Although the torque is probably lower in the RPM and probably wont feel as bad on the road as the F6.
With 30% more torque from LPG its more like 64kW and 165Nm which is closer to the FE 8v carb spec for the GC which is much more tolerable.

I think I can probably keep the install cost to the same or close to that of the rebate....plus LPG here is $0.65/litre so the extra cost to run it is SFA.

more to come.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 4-14-10, 2:31   #2 (permalink)
  Total: 288 Power: 5
 
jesiotrot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Age: 29
iTrader: (4)
Ahhhhh this explain the donut tank :P

Cool car, dont see many around. They pop up at the wreckers every so often with a diesel motor.

jesiotrot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4-16-10, 3:41   #3 (permalink)
  Total: 11 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
iTrader: (1)
For that price you should have bought my KE55 Rolla I just sold! I used it as a run about and was great. Oh well!

That thing is pimpin!
CMJ626 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4-16-10, 21:17   #4 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
Yeah I did think about other cars...I was looking at a RWD 626....but the main aim was to make use of the existing parts I have for the car, and the left overs from the other GC.

For instance I have :
1. a complete set of wheels and tyres
2. all four hubs with relatively new discs and pads
3. multiple sets of indicator lamps and headlights
4. a set of 4 used koni orange shocks
5. about half a dozen radiator fans
various miscellaneous parts like washer bottles etc

I can work on this car with my eyes_ closed!

One thing I did come across....I was giving the interior a clean....as part of that I decided to get a complete set of seats from a wrecker as mine were really dirty and had some rips.Anyway while the seats were out I thought I'll give the carpet a wash (yes you can do this, I have done it before) being 100% synthetic, a bucket of hot soapy water was poured onto the carpet while it sat on the driveway......

Then I saw green coolant running out of it from around the passengers side area....this means this car has had a coolant leak inside the car at some stage. (but now the carpet is much cleaner!)

This could be bad news...probably the heater core, although on GC's theyre not known for leaking like they do on a GD. I have a spare, so that is ok.....but its an arse of a thing to change....

The question now is do I need to change it....the one thats in there doesnt seem to be leaking....maybe its been fixed by the previous owner.
or maybe i just havent got it hot enough for it to start leaking again.

On a GC the heater is controlled by a water valve, so no water flows through it when its not turned on, but it is pressurised at the same pressure as the rest of the cooling system. On a GD the heater core has coolant flowing through it all the time, and there is an air door that stops air going through it when its not needed. This is probably what kills the GD cores faster as they have hot coolant running thought them more often. the GC only has that when its in use (and here in Australia thats not very often)

I will need to pressure test it......I might rig up something so I can pressurise it with 15psi of compressed air and see if any water runs out. But it might only leak when its hot....How do I test that rather than going on a long drive where the inconvenience of a split core could be an engine killer.
Maybe I will need to add some external shutoff valves so if I split it while driving I can pull over and shut off the water supply to the core, so I can keep driving.

Or I just replace it with my spare anyway, and assume that the one thats in there is no good.

There are two other things than are wrong....the alternator bracket is cracked, and will need to be welded up (i'll post some pics on this later) but it uses a double V-belt drive. V-belts tend to cause alot more vibrations and this can lead to fatigue cracks...I have seen this happen on other cars. I have welded up brackets on Hyundai excels before. Its worse on cars driven at a constant speed (like this one would have been) as the vibrations can occur for long periods of time owing to constant rpms of the motor.

The sump gasket is leaking. (yes there is not supposed to be a gasket in there) This is a lesson on why you dont use gaskets on Mazda motors....they seep oil.....This one looks like its cork theyre even worse than rubber. The previous owner must have installed it rather than using sealant.

I have to fix these things before the car can go for inspection (as the registration has run out)

Fixing up old cars is never without work...

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4-16-10, 23:16   #5 (permalink)

  Total: 263 Power: 5
 
jphillips626's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: kalamazoo, MI, USA
Age: 30
iTrader: (7)
test the new core first, then install if good. No more worries. Cool write-up. More pics as you progress, plz

Noble White 626 turbo 4WS 5spd.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2525741 Coming back in Spring '14
91 626 Hatchback turbo LEATHER HKSpipes, exhaust, LW UDP DD302k//91 626 Hatchback N/A
jphillips626 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4-17-10, 3:18   #6 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
Yeah I was trying to avoid spending the time pulling the dash to fit another heater core.....

Here are some random pics

cracked alternator bracket :





newer front seats :



seeping sump (oil pan) gasket :


84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4-24-10, 2:41   #7 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
minor update

I started repairing a few things,

first the alternator bracket....I looked at trying to fit one off a different model, but decided that would take too long, so I welded up the exsiting one and added a stiffner so that hopefully if I never get around to fitting something different it will stand the test of time. Its not brilliant, I spent about 20mins doing it:



I snapped the original bolt, very easily I might add, I suspect it was also fatigued along with the bracket, luckily the bucket of mazda bolts came to the rescue, the one I found looked almost new. I'll add some paint to the bracket in the next day or two, had to check the fit.

While I was working I found more broken stuff :



its just a vibration damper, I have more of these...I have never seen these break before, maybe the diesel engine produces alot more vibration that I thought.

I hit a small snag when starting on the oil pan gasket.....this :



its the coolant pipe return for the water pump. I thought I would have it easy with the exhaust on the diesel being on the firewall side of the motor, but then I forgot about the coolant return pipe. So I am going to need to drain the coolant...in which case I might as well do the heater core while I am at it, so this job waits for another day.

I did end up basically replacing most of the interior tho. I had to replace one front seat, I ended up replacing all of them, the centre console and the carpet! yes the carpet.....why ? It had a horrible smell, washing it didnt help, I have had all the windows open in my garage for two weeks now with fan blowing air through, but it hasnt cleared the smell.
I am pretty sure something was spilled on the carpet, hopefully this will clear the smell...or I might have to torch this car!

I dont think it will come to that, but I will keep replacing stuff until I nail the offending item! so far it hasnt cost too much, most of the interior has cost about $100 from a junkyard.

Here is how it looks now :





This is what it was when I got it :



I would do the whole dash too except I can find another good one, seeing as how I have to pull the dash to do the heater core, it would not be much more effort or cost....it looks ok in the pic, but there is a crack and the air vents are both broken...a common problem in series I GCs but these are so broken they cant be used at all.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4-26-10, 3:18   #8 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
oil pan gasket

I decided to tackle the oil pan gasket today, seeing as how thats the main reason the car will not pass inspection...oil leaks.

I decided that the best way to attack this was to remove the right side of the subframe and lower arm as one piece.
This is normally the way you would do it on a GD but on a GC its possible to get the oil pan (or sump as we Australians call it) out without removing the subframe.

Seeing as how I has using air tools, anything you can remove to give you better access is worth doing.

The only difference is that a GC needs the engine supported as the top mount is a stabiliser only and will not stop the motor falling out the bottom if you take away the bottom mount. on a GD the top mount supports the motor entirely.

Here is what I used to support the motor... a bit crude, but my winch was at the other end of the garage...and this is fine considering I am just supporting the motor, not pulling it out... :



I also discovered by removing part of the subframe and unbolting the coolant pipe supports, I could move the coolant pipe far enough to get access to sump bolts...meaning no need to drain the coolant....win.

While I was at it I decided to change both oil filters, the bypass oil filter on these early GC diesels is on a bracket bolted to the chassis rail, and was easy to access while I was working on the sump:



the most annoying thing (apart from pressing the wrong keys on a stupid laptop keyboard) is that I needed a bigger oil filter removing tool for bypass filter than the one I own, so I had to head up to the local auto parts store to buy one....30 minute break.

after that getting the sump off was a piece of cake :



it holds alot of oil compared to a non diesel motor, and has a baffle included.

Here is my access to get it off :



I did not have time to do anything more than just clean the surfaces put the sealant on, and bolt it back into place.

Sealant :



It would have been nice to have cleaned the outside of the sump before putting it back, but it will need to be done on the car now. I wanted to get as far as getting sump back on so as to allow it to set overnight...I want to have the oil back in the car and the engine running tomorrow.

And yes, for those who were wondering what sort of gasket was in there originally causing all these leaks....it was as I suspected....a cork gasket! so dont use one unless you want your engine to leak oil like this one has.
Use sealant! the only downside is that you have to wait for it to set, you cant just drive it out of the shop an hour after you have fitted it.
You can get away with neoprene gaskets...but you must put a small amount of sealant in four places, where the oil pan surfaces change from block to oil pump and back, and rear oil seal holder to block and back. this will stop the seepage through the gap where the transition from different metals

Last edited by chief tool; 4-26-10 at 3:33.. Reason: stupid me pressing enter by mistake and going back to add the rest of the info in to the thread

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4-28-10, 3:29   #9 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
brake problems

Ok...so while I was under the car doing the sump gasket, I saw that the brake hoses were all cracked, not only will the car not pass inspection like this, I dont like to drive a car where the brakes are in such bad shape.

When I bought this car I always thought replacing the brakes might be a possibility.
I have all the hubs and brakes including lines from my other GC, the good thing is that I know their history. The rubber lines were all brand new in 1997, so I will re use them for now theyre in much better shape than the 26 year old ones.

But I discovered that both rear brakes needed new brake shoes (drums) so rather than buy new shoes and fit them I thought I'd fit my disc brakes that I pulled off my other GC. They were in good shape except for a minor problem where some metal had been worn away by the trailing arm bushes on the right side (which I fixed with some ghetto welding!)....and I did not have a spare set of park brake cables to suit the disc brakes.

I grabbed a pair of park brake cables from a local junkyard...I fitted both sides with my old disc brake hubs, I had fitted the left side and I was doing the right side when I discovered a small problem, the right side cable was completely rusted up and would not move.

So everything has come to a stop....I tried to get a replacement from the junkyard where I got it, they had no more, and I tried every yard I had a number for in a 150 mile radius...and nothing.
Rock Auto to the rescue....they still had these in stock, so I ordered two sets of Beck Arnley branded cables (I thought I'd keep a spare set for the other car seeing as how they have become quite rare here)
The only issue is that shipping from the US to Australia will be about 10 working days (2 weeks)

That being the case the car will not go for inspection until this arrives and is installed.....So, I might aswell do the front brakes too, I was just going to change the hoses, but I'll swap the whole assembly now I have the time. ( I need to do a bearing on the right side on my spare hubs, but I bought a replacement bearing on ebay for $20, which is pretty good considering theyre $80+ elsewhere.

I might do the heater core and the radiator hoses too.

I was hoping i'd have this thing on the road already, so I can start on the other cars

pics to come

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5-7-10, 3:44   #10 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
minor brake update

Still no pics (i'll have to take them later and post, I was on the clock for most of this)

But......I got my park brake cables from Rock Auto, but only the right side. There was a mix up with the order and I got half my shipment.
At least it was the right side that I needed, however the after market cable did not have the notch for the chassis bracket like the factory one does, so I had to file out the chassis to get the cable to fit.

The other issue, was that the aftermarket cable was a slightly different length. if you used them in pairs, probably not an issue, but one aftermarket cable mixed with an old factory one, meant me trying to match the tension on each cable so as the parking brake applied a similar force to both wheels.

I also replaced both front hubs and calipers with my old ones off the other car. I replaced the RH wheel bearing, but in doing so I bent the old knuckle, so had to visit the junkyard to get another one to finish the job.
I am always reluctant to disassemble the ones on the car in case there is some issue, that stops them going back together and I end up with car that is stuck in the driveway waiting for parts.

Anyway, the car is ready for inspection (IMO) most things are working to my standard, we will see next week if it passes.

The major issues are fixed, oil leaks and brakes, all the lights work, I replaced the wiper blades, so we should be pretty right.

After It passes, I think I should replace the heater core, as I just dont trust the one that is in there after seeing the coolant stains on the carpet.

After that this car will be doing daily drive duties.....

As a result there are some more things I need to think about:
adding power steering, it doesnt have it, and I have the spare parts needed to add it on...
Why do I want it, when most people on this site are trying to work out out how to make their cars manual steer.......Well this car is a daily drive and I live in the city where tight car parks are not unusual, plus I will end up fitting my old 215 wide tyres from the other car.....this will make it a menace to drive without p/s, and people other than me will end up driving this car, some dont have the wrist strength.

The other thing I want on there is A/C, for the same reasons above and that Australia is [fizzle]ing hot most of the time.
We are coming into winter...so its ok for about 3 months, but I want to have it up and running come September. Plus I also want to do this for as close to no $ as possible.
We will see what factory parts I can find that will fit and what other ideas I can come up with.
I am also thinking about using this car as a test bed for a Harrison V5 compressor, so I can see if its worth fitting to the other cars I own.

More to come. I will probably add pics into this post.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5-15-10, 0:10   #11 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
update and electrical problems

Well, its been a bit busy doing my paid job, so not much time to work on the car.

I took the car up for its inspection, and unfortunately it didnt pass, but at least what they failed it on was all pretty minor, so I can head up there next week, with these things fixed, so it should be pretty straight forward next time around.

There was a brake fluid leak from where I hadnt tightened up one of the hoses quite enough...annoying, it only showed up as that had been the furthest I had driven the car since changing the hoses.

Also there were " oil leaks " which is bull[shizzle], as I fixed them! but I didnt clean the outside of the oil pan all that well, so all I needed to do was give it a thorough degrease...I was hoping to get away with not doing this.....oh well should have known better.

Unfortunately after the degrease I found a minor leak in the gearbox from around the speedometer gear. Ok so I didnt notice that before, and the inspectors may have been partly right.
However why would there be oil leaking from around the speedo gear! the oil level in the gearbox should be below the level of this seal....unless the clown that owned it before me overfilled it...
I'll check the oil level next week, but here is a pic of the leak...which was worse when hot....which indicates its probably over filled.



I ended up fitting my brakes that were left over from the 5 stud hub project on my other car.


(pic from other car before removal)

My disc rotors and pads were all near new, all I needed to do was fix the right front wheel bearing....but I had a brain explosion and bent the knuckle trying to press out the hub...so I had to visit the junkyard to get another one.

Electrical problems

Apart from some non standard wiring, for driving lights (which were not there) which I have removed..I hate that stuff.
There was a problem with the radiator cooling fan, it was running all the time.

Not only that it was going around backwards, trying to blow air through the radiator and out through the grille..epic fail.

I found that someone had just found any old wire with 12v on it, and connected it to the fan...but why would they do that ?
I disconnected the temporary wiring and reconnected the fan back to the factory harness plug.
In the GC, if the factory sensor fails, the fan would run all the time, its like a sort of fail safe...
In the diesel version the sensor is in the bottom of the radiator:



I didnt want to wait for the car to warm up to test it, so I disconnected the sensor, the fan should have come on....it didnt.

So I thought I'd check the power on the fan relay...I traced the plug, and there was nothing on the end....this would be a good reason why it didnt work!
I reached into the box of mazda relays, pulled from various cars that I stripped over the years, and found one that was the right type, SPDT, and right type of plug.
Just as well I checked the pinout of the plug, as it was totally different

I thought may be I would try and get the correct part, but I was feeling a little bit impatient, so I popped all the connectors out of the tab housing and clipped them into the spots to match the relay and plugged it in :



The problem with doing this is that now the wiring harness is non standard, I'll put a note in my book about this....but its this sort of thing that would annoy the next owner of this car! maybe I will change it back in the future.
While I was at it I repaired a headlamp wire which was joined by the twist and tape method....this was where an aftermarket driving light relay had been connected.

What else is wrong......when I was driving the car to have it inspected I noticed that there was a "hot dust" smell coming from under the dash.....you know the sort of smell the heater core makes when It gets hot for the first time in a few months.....
I thought I'd turn on the interior fan to see if the heater was hot.....and nothing...no air no noise...so it looks like the interior fan does not work for some reason.
Technically this car could be failed on roadworthy for this, as a working demister is a requirement....hardly anyone ever checks it so I'll keep it under my hat for now, but I might look at it next week before it goes in for its second inspection time permitting.
Should be a straight forward fix, I have all the parts anyway, I suspect it'll be either a tripped circuit breaker (yes its a circuit breaker not a fuse on the interior fan) or a burned out resistor pack. On non a/c cars like this one, there is an extra resistor in series with the motor to compensate for the fact that there is no evaporator core restricting the air flow.

Heater Core

I was curious though as to why the smell of hot heater core when it should be cold...in a GC there is a valve that controls the flow that connects to the heater control. I decided to have a look under the dash.

you almost have to be a contortionist to get under there for a look.



The arrow points to a repair....its really hard to see in the pic, but it looks like the pipe flange which is plastic, must have broken off at one stage, and has been glued back on.
This explains the coolant stains on the carpet...however I not sure I am satisfied with the repair...so I will replace it..
The reason that its hot while turned off looks to be due to the valve not closing properly, so I would need to replace it anyway.

Why would it break off like that ? I wonder if the vibrattion from the diesel engine (yes its noticeably more than a non diesel) causes a fatigue crack in the plastic over time...
I thought maybe it had been replaced with an after market core without a valve (like this) :
FORD AR - AS TELSTAR HEATER CORE - CAR HEATER - HEATER - eBay Other, Air Conditioning, Heating, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 17-May-10 14:44:09 AEST)

Which while being made of metal and will likely last forever, has no control valve, and would need an external tap control, which while being not impossible, is a bit of a pain and would result in a heater thats either on or off with no in between!....plus $370 is a bit steep considering I can get one from rock auto for half that shipped (but it is only plastic/alum, but has the factory valve!)

I have a used spare anyway thats in good cond, I might add a pig tail loop into the heater hose so as to help damp out any vibrations.

More to come.

Looks like the LPG injection project will now go on hold until at least late July thanks to work commitments

Last edited by chief tool; 5-15-10 at 0:18.. Reason: typology

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5-15-10, 6:53   #12 (permalink)
  Total: 157 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Age: 28
iTrader: (0)
i used to have a 2.0 petrol one of those, same colour but i had hubcaps brilliant cars, soooo comfy (for something so old) Damn i miss it

1993 626 KL-ZE, i swear its stock officer...
From SAE 920677... "LONG LIFE AND MAINTENANCE-FREE - Efforts were made to extend the life of these engines and make them as maintenance-free as possible so that customers can be pleased with the vehicle's quality long after the initial driving period."
Fitzyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5-15-10, 17:58   #13 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
Yeah they are comfy especially in Super Delux trim.

This one is just a Delux, but those are SDX seats....the originals were in pretty woeful shape. and Yeah I have the hub caps too, they were off when I took the pic!

This woulld be GC #5....my other turbo one which is SDX trim is #3, which started life as a 2.0 carb auto.
In between there has been a Yellow coupe...I miss that car...not the yellow paint tho (also SDX trim, in black), I had an F6(1587cc) in it one stage...man it was slow with that, the F6 was meant to be temporary while I was rebuilding my 2.0, which took over 3 years! I sold it to buy my GD.

Before that I had two silver sedans with the awful burgundy interior, one was the 'special' trim level, vinyl seats, 5"x14 wheels a 4 speed manual gearbox! both ended up with body damage making them unroadworthy, I stripped them for parts and sent the rest to the metal recyclers many years ago.

Unfortunately the back interior was only available with yellow paint. some of those early 80s trim colours were a bit wacky.

I was on the lookout for a long time for a good yellow sedan to pull the black interior out of.....I am still looking..they werent all that common (maybe only marginally more common than the diesel!

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5-22-10, 17:57   #14 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
Update - Dash removed

Good news for me, my second inspection the car passed...

All it need was a degrease and a new o-ring on the speedomter drive. earlier I thought the gearbox might have been overfilled as the reason for the leak.

If anything it was low, with ATF. I changed the o-ring on the speedo drive and changed the oil for 75-90.
While I do run ATF in my H-series gearbox I prefer to run 75-90 gear oil in the G-series....its alot less tempramental than the H.

While I wait for my insurance papers to come through which I need to get the number plates, I thought i'd have a go at fixing a few of the other problems.

The weather has been wet, which stops me from doing anything with the car parked outside..so I thought i'd remove the dash to swap out the heater core and find out why the heater fan was not working.

I checked it with the multi meter and 12v was arriving on the fan, the resistor block wasnt burned out...so it could only mean that there was no ground via the switch...on any speed.

I had thought that the bodgy radio install might have been responsible for a missing ground...nearly right.

Dash out :







Realistically, I dont know why I groan when thinking about taking the dash out...It took me 45mins (even less at the junkyards when I know it doesnt have to go back together!)
Its about a dozen bolts and a few connectors.
At least I have worked on enough GCs to know where all the bolts and plugs are. This is the where the time gets wasted I guess, trying to pull the dash when you have missed one of the bolts holding it on.

At least with the dash out the problem with the heater fan is immediately obvious:



as you can see the black wire has completely broken away from the switch taking the terminal with it.
I have never seen these switches fail, so it must have had some assistance.
My guess is that whoever fitted the radio was trying to get access to the area and thought they could remove the heater control panel from the front and tore the wires.
You could theoretically remove it from the front once you disconnect the cable controls but in reality you cant get your hand in to unplug the switch from the dash harness...this is probably where they went wrong.

The good thing for me is that I have a spare heater control panel and switch, its just missing some of the knobs and levers, which I can transfer over from this one.

I ran out of time to pull the heater core...I'll do that one in a day or two.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5-28-10, 2:08   #15 (permalink)

  Total: 557 Power: 5
 
chief tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Age: 41
iTrader: (3)
minor update - heater core replaced

I am glad I went to the effort of replacing the heater core...as its was definitely stuffed.



there were so many leaves and even a dead cokroach in the heater box! I washed it out before installing another core...which came from my 86 model turbo donor car about 15 years ago....its been sitting around since then, but only had been used for 8 years/85,000km so its got to be alot newer than what came out.
The 86 one has slightly different pipes, but they still come out of the firewall in the right spot.

I also decided to add an external heater tap, for two reasons :

1. so the water does not flow through the core when the heater is not on, the in built valve isnt the best at stopping the flow completely, this helps make the core last longer as it wont get hot very often, and I suspect its the heating and cooling that eventually damages the plastic....also I want to keep any heat out of the dash for summer time !
2. I think that it would be better if water was to flow in the heater loop when the heater is off, this will theoretically help lessen hot spots in the engine while the thermostat is closed...also it will help the oil cooler's effectiveness as it is effectively in series with the heater....and I cant see how it can be doing its job with the heater tuned off!....dunno how that was meant to work!

Here is how I hooked it up:





Its a vacuum operated valve, I will use a vacuum servo valve (like is used to make the a/c idle up work) and put a microswitch on the heater control panel

The valve is a $25 part for a local GM product, the commodore, model VR from the mid 90s. I also used some heater hoses to suit the same car to connect it, although one needed to be shortened and the other cut and shut.

Next to put the dash back in and connect everything back up.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
chief tool is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Permissions
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 8:39.



Powered by vBulletin®. Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
Copyright 2000-2010, MX6.com
MX6.com is in no way affiliated to Mazda Motor Corp.
All views expressed in this site are the personal opinion of the author and not necessarily the owners of MX6.com.