Quote:
Originally Posted by rdemastus
It an 1988 mazda mx6 turbo after that night she blew the head gasket so now its at the machine shop being 100% rebuilt.
Thunderbird turbo wheel
3 inch turbo back exhaust
front mount with all intercooler pipes to go with
aem wideband
arm tru boost set @ 18 psi but the wastegate aculater is week so it starts to open at 14 psi
no ac
no ps
chip
190 fuel pump
440 supra injecters
modfied fuel rail
Aeromotive fpr
those thicker intake gaskets
Now the engine is being rebuilt with 30 over pistons bumping the compression up a lil and a 3 angl valve job. Im also going to do a stage 5 Act clutch and better engine mounts.
|
I made very similar choices when I first started with these cars, what I have learned is that the stock block is amazing and durable, just tear it down, clean it up (pistons and rings to), reassemble with new gaskets and it's good to go.
.020 .030 .040 .050 pistons wont yield any real HPR gains and just thin the piston walls, making them weaker.
More compression will make the engine more prone to detonation and create more heat for small HPR gains, N/A's come with 8.6:1 pistons and you can find the blocks everywhere, so there is a close to free compression upgrade if you really want one.
Get the head ported while it's off, you wont regret it.
Spend you money on a good turbo and engine or fuel management, tuning and not build is the key to the engine's survival and reliability.
I would also recommend pulling the transmission apart while it's off and having the diff pin welded in place (NOT THE DIFF GEARS), the diff pin (that holds the spider gears in the diff) is held in by a small role pin, which when pushing the car, often sheers away and the diff pin floats in the diff until it comes through the housing.
Do not try to break in a new built engine with and ACT clutch, the extreme duty pressure plate is unsprung and can walk the crank.
The ACT grabs well but so do others, the darn clutch pedal is so stiff to get to the floor and a challenge to hold there.
I had to pull my ACT 4puck with extreme pressure plate out last summer, the release bearing (which still worked fine) had worn a groove into the pressure plate 1/2 the depth of the forks and the engagement point was getting farther on the pedal, I had adjusted the clutch masters rod and bled the system, then the shift fork (that holds the release bearing) cracked on the pivot ball, I had enough and sent the disk to bully clutch and tossed the pressure plate, they converted the disk to a sprung stage 4 and made me a stage 4 BULLY pressure plate with needle bearings, near OEM pedal effort and stronger then the ACT.
