Finally yanked the engine out of the new ATX GT yesterday and started dismantling everything for a full ovehaul, still awaiting my engine rebuild kit from Napa. I got the new pistons in, but thats all so far.
I decided not to overbore the block at all and just keep it stock.
The head looked awfully clean on the outside and even better on the inside!!!:
Somehow, every bolt and/or nut came off of the exhaust manifold without having to use the torches!
Japanese Block?:
Few of the block:
Next up will be measuring for a few days. I've got to measure bearing clearance, the main and rod journals, valve stem install height, valve guide diameter, etc etc etc. Althought I'm pretty sure the entire head will be fine measurement wise. I'm just going to P&P the Head and IM, and get the block cleaned.
I'll be updating this thread whenever I decide to do some work on it and have my camera to take pics.
If I had said that I would have been wrong. The Japanese Domestic Market was lucky enough to only have the FE3 as we all know instead of the F2T.
Correct. Its very simple to call Napa and have them deliver different parts to the shop. I was expecting to have to wait sometime before the shipment came in since the local Napa didnt have the kit in stock. But the salesman at Napa is pretty cool and had it overnighted for me from Pennsylvania.
I simply didnt trust the guy who I bought the car from. He said he never had any major problems with the car, obviously a lie seeing as theres a brand new head on it and hes owned the car for 8 years he said. And seeing the 177k on the odometer was the final factor in the decision. Plus I'm a believer in 'if you're going to do it, do it right the first time.' Seeing as I'm alreday inside the block, why have to do it twice? I could have done the gasket engine 'rebuild' but decided not to.
The point is not that you can order new pistons but that you said that you did order new pistons but are going to "keep the block stock" which doesn't always/usually can't happen when rebuilding. Some times it just doesn't matter if you want to keep the block the stock bore, but that you need to overbore regardless of what you want to do.
Either way, you can take your pistons back if need be, but a smarter move would be to check the block out before ordering pistons.
I just finished building my 2.66L 8.8:1 KL. It was gay. To top it off upon rotating the engine on the stand, it decided to lose balance and fall over with the stand, ripping my knee open and tearing my pants. A 375 lb assembled KL doesnt feed good on the knee.
Rebuilding motors is a bad business. Cars in general are a bad business. that's why Im going to school.
I just finished building my 2.66L 8.8:1 KL. It was gay. To top it off upon rotating the engine on the stand, it decided to lose balance and fall over with the stand, ripping my knee open and tearing my pants. A 375 lb assembled KL doesnt feed good on the knee.
Rebuilding motors is a bad business. Cars in general are a bad business. that's why Im going to school.
Haha, not terrible really. It was more of a skim wound that anything, but it was also impact. It was a week ago and it still is bruised up a bit. Luckily there was a big box underneath it, and the KL ripped it on its way down, breaking the fall a bit. Nothing broke.
i'd rather through 10k us at a 1uzfe, and decimate your poor little 2jz. that or one of the short stroke nissan v8s is the ultimate jap engine at this stage. perhaps now the 280ps limit is gone we will see 10 or 12 cyls from japan? that would be super cool...
well, the 20b could probably make more power than the 1uz just from having the same displacement, and more rpm capability. 7k is the sensible limit for the 1uz, and 9ish the upper border with work done...
v12, no [shizzle], i'll be looking into that!!!
no shit indeed, i take back the 1uzfe comment, and replace it with
1gzfe is the winner, i'm thinking 500+hp with no turbos.
Kill me for not measuring first I sorry you guys dont have the luxury of picking up the phone and having parts come to you. Unless Sick still has his job at the Turbo place.
I didnt see any T-Gauges or ball gauges in your 'rebuild' Sick, why didnt you measure?
Finally got my shlt back from the machine shop. I forgot to get a pic of the IM, I'll get one tomorrow.
All the goodies for the rebuild:
Coming back from the machine shop:
P&P Head along with a 3 Angle Valve Job:
Plastiguaged Main Bearing Caps:
Dont worry, I wore gloves while handling the bearings. Just didnt want to get the camera full of shlt so I took them off to take pics. We all know the acid off your skin isnt good for the bearings I didnt get pics of measuring the crank, but every journal was perfectly in spec Thankfully, wouldnt want to give any more money to my machinist.
Bottom Mains set into place:
The Pistons (well, one anyway):
I've got a question about paint. Who has used what too paint their blocks? I used DupliColor 1200 Paint on my VC and its already chipping off. I've heard VHT is pretty decent for block paint as well as Rust-O-Leum. Just wanted some input as what to use. I've thought about just getting a cheap powder coating machine from Harbor Freight for $100 but I'm not sure of the quality of it. Cant be too good for $100, you get what you pay for.
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