Water pump / Timing belt change

MX6_Scotland · 1-13-03, 5:54

This is now the 2nd time I have doe the timing belt and I wish I had taken notes the first time. The haynes manual is overall fairly accurate but they seem to forget us "real" mechanics have to do all the work down a 4 in wide gap between the engine and inner wing, they have the nice clean engine on a bench in a heated workshop.....but anyway I did take notes this time and thought they may help some others.

The job took a total of 4 hours (1.5 Friday eve, 1.5 Sat morning, 1 Sunday morning) I broke it into block of time that coincided with my tolerance to heat (lack off...must have been 3 or 4 below.... Deg C)

Note: this is not meant to replace the need for the haynes manual but gives a simple checklist to follow after studying the book.......

Step 1 - Dismantle
1 Drain the coolant.
2 Remove top radiator hose.
3 Loosen front right wheel nuts.
4 Jack up car.
5 Remove wheel.
6 Remove plastic splash guard under engine.
7 Slacken both belt pulleys tensioners alternator/power steering.
8 Remove belts.
9 Remove both tensioners (take the centre nut off the front tensioner completely, then the tensioner can twist up and out).
10 Remove the water pump pulley.
11 Set to TDC (see step 3 for further info) I did not use the distributor method, I just marked all the pulleys).
12 Support the engine then remove the offside mount.
13 Jam a screwdriver through the power steering pump pulley and remove it to allow the cam belt cover from the rear bank.
14 Remove the dip stick bolt and pull out the stick and tube.
15 Remove the bolts holding the cambelt covers. Remove the crank pulley- you need to hold the pulley-I use an old multi V belt and twist it in a stilson, Keeping the tension on the stilson you can the undo the centre bolt.
16 Remove the crank pulley.
17 Remove the cambelt cover(s).
18 Check TDC is still ok.
19 Turn engine 2 full revolutions by putting the wheel backon. 20 This checks for major problems in alignment.

Step 2 - TDC, Timing belt removal
1 Set the crank timing mark to the mark in the block.
2 If the marks on the cam pulleys bon't line up exactly (Mine were out by 1 tooth on each cam pulley) don't worry....the car was running fine before you decided to change the belt....make new marks on the pulleys (gently) with a hacksaw (or use tipex) that line up with marks on the heads.
3 Take off tensioner and place in a vice to press the piston back in ready for refitting.
4 Turn the vice half a turn at a time and put a 1mm drill bit through the small hole (furthest in of the 2, allows easier refitting than if you use the first hole) in the case and the piston.
5 Remove the timing belt.
6 Remove engine mount on the engine.
7 Remove the water pump.
8 In good old Haynes style....Replace everything in the reverse order.

Step 3 - Putting on the belt. (Not sure what the bearing are called that the cam belts runs across between each main pulley so I have called them runners)
1 Put belt round all pulleys except the top center runner. using a 17mm spanner turn the front cam pulley anti clockwise by 1 tooth. and hook the bely on, when you return the pulley to its correct mark the front stretch of the belt will be taught.
2 Then put the belt over the back pulley, checking it is on its mark, then slip it under the centre runner.
3 Check all the marks.
4 If you are happy put on the tensioner and check all timing marks again.
5 If still happy pull out the 1mm drill bit. Turn the front wheel (in 5th gear) to turn the engine 2 full revolutions.
6 Check the timing marks again.

Good job done and a few quid saved.

**mx6-uk** · 1-13-03, 14:47

Excellent write up Ewan Thanks.

I am going to put it in the suppliers section if you dont mind then it will be easier to find in future rather than slipping away into forum history.

**Einstein** · 1-13-03, 15:18

and here is a download of the relevent pages from the workshop manual.. 2.46mb
Click here to download

John

**G-Force** · 1-13-03, 18:22

Wowsers Ewan - Good Job

Wish i was that brave - however i get the impression your either a mechanic or should have been

Nice one

G

MX6_Scotland · 1-15-03, 6:14

If I was a mechanic I wouldn't enjoy it as much.

Its all my dad's fault as he did all his own repairs and I have now "aquired" all his tools......

But I think anything to do with the timing belt seem very daunting and the potential damage (cost) could be large, but it's not really...give it a go.....whats the worst that can happen - I read somewhere that the MX6 valves don't hit the pistons if the belt goes (or is wrongly fitted)

.

But the truth is - I am also a tight Scotch git and hate giving cash to garages .

**G-Force** · 1-15-03, 13:46

Quote:

tight Scotch git

RAFL

Yup your right the MX6 V6 is a non interferance engine - but even so its the only car i have access to so minor service items only ( eg, plugs and filters ) for me.

Good on your for doing it yourself though

G

**Ian F Chequer** · 11-15-04, 4:07

I have just done this job and found that the best prices for the pump and timing belt were from Speedways (www.speedways.co.uk).

Pump - £58
Belt - £28
Carriage & handling - £6

This compares with Halfords who wanted £80 for the pump and £44 for the belt.

Be aware that the pump fitted to post July 1994 cars is a different part number.

As regards fitting I found the best way to install the belt was with the tensioner installed but the pulley removed. Ensure that all the slack in the belt is in the tensioner area, and then insert the tensioner pulley bolt end into the hole. Using the allen key lever the pulley parallel to the engine block (use the rear camshaft sprocket as a sight) and GENTLY start it on its threads. Once it is running it should screw up stiffly but evenly (if it stops hard, you have cross threaded it - unscrew and try again, do not force it as you will strip the thread).

I found the best way to hold the tensioner in check (if you have no suitable allen keys) was with a 1.5mm drill bit which any DIY place should be able to supply for a couple of quid.

regards,

ifc

gary v6 · 4-23-06, 15:34

good work guys, how much would it cost for a garage to change the belt? i dont wanna sell a lung for it, and i dont want to atempt it myself, but would like the job done.

gaz

**Einstein** · 4-23-06, 17:35

Gaz.. you need to see a friend of mine in Sheffield... He is a Mazda trained mechanic, and specifically on the 626/MX-6 V6 engines.

Nick Clulee,
Prospect Road,
Heeley,
Sheffield.
01142 551820

Mention me, and he will look after you..
I reckon just around/over the £200 area..

John

Sexy6Rider · 5-13-09, 22:05

i had just changed the head gasket on my 93 mx6 LS.... at some point i guess i put the cam in wrong so when i put the pullys on the timing belt was off a few teeth... i started it up and it ran OKAY... i took it down the road and WHAM... started to run like [shizzle]... so my guess is the belt had jumped and fixed itself but put the timing out of wack in the process.... now i gotta take it apart and make sure i put it back togother right this time... the info listed is going to be my main source of knowledge... i have done quite a bit of mechanic work in my past but never had to deal with the timing... this will be my first try... ive been talking myself out of doing it for about 3 weeks now.. and all of a sudden ive been looking up the info and spec's so that when i get the courage (now) to do it, it will be done correct... i have no time for half ass work.. its gotta get done now and correct... PERIOD.

Excimer · 5-26-09, 15:30

Not being a machanic, I'm taking my car to the workshop. But I'll order all the necessary parts elsewhere. A cambelt incl. pullies can be bought on several sites. What are the experiences with the Probe store? What belt do you guys order in. The standard one or the HQ-one. Knowing my V6 is standard and I pretty much always keep to the speed limit.
Even including p&p to Holland, it's still is much cheaper to order out.
About the water pump? I keep getting a question if it is a waterpump for a round- or square pully. What is common, because I don't know.
Could use your input.
Thanks

**MX6 addict** · 5-26-09, 16:18

The ProbeStore are good to deal with, very honest, fast delivery and a lot of usefull information.
The water pump differed between early and late models so the year of your car is important to them if you order one. I've never had a problem with the standard cambelt. The HQ is what it says on the tin, it's just Higher Quality.

Mark

Excimer · 5-26-09, 16:56

Mark, thanks for your answer

My V6 is a 1992.
To give you an idea on prices? A Dutch internet site sells a cam belt&pully kit at € 255,= (app £ 224,=). The standard belt from ProbeStore should cost just£ 86,99 which is € 99,=. Guess where I'll order my cam belt kit?
I'll drop ProbeStore an email about the water pump. Even on that I'll probably save about 50%.

Excimer · 6-22-09, 16:42

Thanks for your input.
Ordered the standard cambelt&pully (wich is Nippart original), two waterpumps (can return the unused one). Even with p&p to Holland it is almost beyond belief how much money I saved.
For me ProbeStore rules.
Marco

**MX6 addict** · 6-22-09, 17:22

If you haven't done the job before the post at the begining of this thread is very useful.

Let us know how you go.

Mark