Full Closure Window mod

gareth231 · 9-6-03, 16:35

Fitted full inclosure today to the mx6 (when alarm is activated, locks doors and does windows up) its really easy to do, youve got to cut about 7 wires in the drivers door and solder in a little box, that activates the windows. If anyone wants a diagram of where and what wires to cut let me know and i post them up.
You need a alarm that locks the doors in the 1st place though.

I was lucky and found a "box" down the scrappy so only cost me a pound but the boxes are no more than 30 pounds from maplin anyway.

**Cornish626** · 9-6-03, 16:39

Hi
I'd be interested, I've got an alarm that came as standard I think ? it's got centre locking if that's what you mean.

Mike

gareth231 · 9-6-03, 16:46

yes a alarm that does central locking, i post the diagram up tomrow, its not hard to fit at all, going to try the sun roof next which is meant to be a bit more tricky! been told you need to use a timer to get it to close all the way up!

**Einstein** · 9-6-03, 18:29

I have the genuine Mazda closer kit... I am bringing details to trax..

John

gareth231 · 9-10-03, 16:16

Sorry on the delay, been so busy haven’t had the time to even look at the car, anyway enough excuses here’s the details:

I borrowed this part from the ford probe owner’s site:

Ok here we go first you need to make sure you have an alarm fitted that already operates the C/L on your car otherwise this won’t work.
Second you need to purchase a Electric Window/Sunroof Interface from Maplin Electronics, here’s a link to the product you require http://www.maplin.co.uk/products/mod...630&Products=1
Here’s a brief description of how it works…the window interface is wired into the existing wiring going to the window control panel on the drivers door, it can be fitted completely into the drivers door without running any wires back to the alarm! The instructions that come with the interface tell you that you have to run a wire back to a negative pulse on your alarm… wrong you don’t have to at all, when you press the remote key fob on your alarm the doors lock or should do if they don’t leave now this mod is not for you, if they do then were ok. The signal wire that told your doors to lock when you pressed the fey fob is a Negative pulse and will do the job perfectly, ok enough explanations lets get down to business.

1 Remove R/H door card (simple)
2 Remove speaker (even easier)
3 Locate the multi plug that connects into the R/H door window control panel (bigger of the two)

4. Now the tricky bit, connecting up the wires, It’s quite straightforward really. I like to solder my connections and then shrink-wrap then it makes the install look much neater.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay now for the wires, these are slightly different to the probe. The colours are the same, but there's no 12v live feed on the multi plug:

Green/White trace (from the multi plug) - cut wire and solder green wire in from interface. The other end of the wire that was cut solder on the white wire from the interface (the white wire must be fitted to the switch side of the wire. If I remember correctly this operates the right window.

Now for the left window. Green/Blue trace (from the multi plug) cut the wire in half from the plug, and solder in the blue and brown wires from the interface. Make sure the brown wire gets soldered to the switch side.

Black (from interface) gets soldered / joined to the black wire (earth).

Orange wire (from interface) is used for the activation. Find the 6 pin plug that operates the central locking, (near rear of door) and join the orange wire onto the green wire on this.

Pink (from interface) not used

This now only leaves the red wire from interface (positive) to be connected.
Slightly above the 6 pin plug that operates the central locking is another plug (4 pin) that goes to the door handle. You need to find the blue/red wire, there are 2 wires of the same color on this 4 pin plug, so you need to put a test meter on each 1 until you find the positive 1 of the 2. And then connect it to the positive.

And that’s it! Shouldn’t take much longer than 2 hrs to do max. Haven’t had the time to sort the sunroof out yet, but will post details once I sorted it.

**kenholland** · 9-10-03, 16:23

Nice one Gareth.
I had seen this on FPOC and was going to attempt it later - once I'd figured out the different wire colours. Thanks for doing the legwork for me - I've not got an excuse now.

Ken
link to the FPOC instructions

**Einstein** · 9-10-03, 16:48

The windows use a high amount of current... where are you taking the power feed from? because you are more than likely overloading the wiring.

There is no power to the windows when the ignition is off, so the genuine kit takes a separate 30A feed.

The sunroof uses a timer relay set to 12 seconds,and a changeover relay.. I only have the diagram for the internal tilt/slide roof, which uses two switches.

I agree about the negative pulse for the doors, but this is only a short pulse, so a normal relay would not work, it has to be a window closer module, which has a timer built in.

Also, the genuine Mazda unit was only £25.04 + vat

The sunroor closer unit, (both relay and timer units) is £20.24 + vat... it may be a different model for the MX-6.

John

gareth231 · 9-10-03, 17:28

On the 4 pin plug there is a 12v constant supply, which is 12v even if the igntion is on or off. you could always wire your own feed in, but theres a fair few people who have used this kit and have had no problems inc myself.

The module is a correct window closure module not a normal relay! it dosent work on a timer either, it works on resistance so no problems there either.

I do agree about using a timer for the sun roof, but i think ive sorted it out.

The module to buy new is 24 pounds, i got mine down the scrappy so only paid a pound! so a cheap mod for myself

**BeDlaM** · 9-12-03, 9:42

Think this should be moved over next to kyles preformance mod post, as it will get lost in the posts here.

Andy

**cruisemad** · 9-12-03, 10:21

Quote:

Originally posted by Einstein
The windows use a high amount of current... where are you taking the power feed from? because you are more than likely overloading the wiring.

There is no power to the windows when the ignition is off, so the genuine kit takes a separate 30A feed.

Wrong!!! Well on mine anyway. J-Specs continue to have a live feed to both windows for 90 sec!!! Means i can put mine up manually even with the key out for the first 90 sec. Been meaning to look into fitting total closure.

**kenholland** · 9-12-03, 19:34

Quote:

Originally posted by BeDlaM
Think this should be moved over next to kyles preformance mod post, as it will get lost in the posts here.

Andy

Agreed Andy - consider it done!

Ken

**BeDlaM** · 9-13-03, 8:29

Now

theres an active mod

Andy

**Einstein** · 9-13-03, 16:21

Quote:

theres an active mod

How else can I train him up? I believe in practice makes perfect... and Ken's doing just fine.

Good job, because I'm off on my hols from next Saturday for a week..

John

**kenholland** · 9-20-03, 13:30

Full closure mod fitted today!

Gareth, thanks for the instructions - it worked a treat first time.
I hope you don't mind, but I've tidied them up a little to make them easier to follow, and added a few extra notes about wiring colours.

Ken

**mop** · 9-21-03, 18:15

hey, nice one Ken.. how did it go in the end? I remember you said it was on your list for the weekend after we meet..

Rich

9-6-03, 16:35	#1 (permalink)
gareth231 Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Portsmouth Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	full inclosure window mod Fitted full inclosure today to the mx6 (when alarm is activated, locks doors and does windows up) its really easy to do, youve got to cut about 7 wires in the drivers door and solder in a little box, that activates the windows. If anyone wants a diagram of where and what wires to cut let me know and i post them up. You need a alarm that locks the doors in the 1st place though. I was lucky and found a "box" down the scrappy so only cost me a pound but the boxes are no more than 30 pounds from maplin anyway.

9-6-03, 16:39	#2 (permalink)
Cornish626 Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cornwall, UK Age: 53 iTrader: (0)	Hi I'd be interested, I've got an alarm that came as standard I think ? it's got centre locking if that's what you mean. Mike
	Skyline GTS-T R33 Scary www.miktec.co.uk

9-10-03, 16:16	#5 (permalink)
gareth231 Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Portsmouth Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	Sorry on the delay, been so busy haven’t had the time to even look at the car, anyway enough excuses here’s the details: I borrowed this part from the ford probe owner’s site: Ok here we go first you need to make sure you have an alarm fitted that already operates the C/L on your car otherwise this won’t work. Second you need to purchase a Electric Window/Sunroof Interface from Maplin Electronics, here’s a link to the product you require http://www.maplin.co.uk/products/mod...630&Products=1 Here’s a brief description of how it works…the window interface is wired into the existing wiring going to the window control panel on the drivers door, it can be fitted completely into the drivers door without running any wires back to the alarm! The instructions that come with the interface tell you that you have to run a wire back to a negative pulse on your alarm… wrong you don’t have to at all, when you press the remote key fob on your alarm the doors lock or should do if they don’t leave now this mod is not for you, if they do then were ok. The signal wire that told your doors to lock when you pressed the fey fob is a Negative pulse and will do the job perfectly, ok enough explanations lets get down to business. 1 Remove R/H door card (simple) 2 Remove speaker (even easier) 3 Locate the multi plug that connects into the R/H door window control panel (bigger of the two) 4. Now the tricky bit, connecting up the wires, It’s quite straightforward really. I like to solder my connections and then shrink-wrap then it makes the install look much neater. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Okay now for the wires, these are slightly different to the probe. The colours are the same, but there's no 12v live feed on the multi plug: Green/White trace (from the multi plug) - cut wire and solder green wire in from interface. The other end of the wire that was cut solder on the white wire from the interface (the white wire must be fitted to the switch side of the wire. If I remember correctly this operates the right window. Now for the left window. Green/Blue trace (from the multi plug) cut the wire in half from the plug, and solder in the blue and brown wires from the interface. Make sure the brown wire gets soldered to the switch side. Black (from interface) gets soldered / joined to the black wire (earth). Orange wire (from interface) is used for the activation. Find the 6 pin plug that operates the central locking, (near rear of door) and join the orange wire onto the green wire on this. Pink (from interface) not used This now only leaves the red wire from interface (positive) to be connected. Slightly above the 6 pin plug that operates the central locking is another plug (4 pin) that goes to the door handle. You need to find the blue/red wire, there are 2 wires of the same color on this 4 pin plug, so you need to put a test meter on each 1 until you find the positive 1 of the 2. And then connect it to the positive. And that’s it! Shouldn’t take much longer than 2 hrs to do max. Haven’t had the time to sort the sunroof out yet, but will post details once I sorted it. Last edited by kenholland : 9-20-03 at 13:26.

9-10-03, 16:23	#6 (permalink)
kenholland Ex-Mod Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dorset, UK iTrader: (0)	Nice one Gareth. I had seen this on FPOC and was going to attempt it later - once I'd figured out the different wire colours. Thanks for doing the legwork for me - I've not got an excuse now. Ken link to the FPOC instructions Last edited by kenholland : 9-12-03 at 19:07.
	Ken

9-10-03, 17:28	#8 (permalink)
gareth231 Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Portsmouth Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	On the 4 pin plug there is a 12v constant supply, which is 12v even if the igntion is on or off. you could always wire your own feed in, but theres a fair few people who have used this kit and have had no problems inc myself. The module is a correct window closure module not a normal relay! it dosent work on a timer either, it works on resistance so no problems there either. I do agree about using a timer for the sun roof, but i think ive sorted it out. The module to buy new is 24 pounds, i got mine down the scrappy so only paid a pound! so a cheap mod for myself Last edited by gareth231 : 9-10-03 at 17:37.

9-6-03, 16:46	#3 (permalink)
gareth231 Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Portsmouth Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	yes a alarm that does central locking, i post the diagram up tomrow, its not hard to fit at all, going to try the sun roof next which is meant to be a bit more tricky! been told you need to use a timer to get it to close all the way up!

9-12-03, 9:42	#9 (permalink)
BeDlaM Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Glasgow Age: 52 iTrader: (0)	Think this should be moved over next to kyles preformance mod post, as it will get lost in the posts here. Andy
	to err is human (now does that mean owing a soarer i have erred )

9-13-03, 8:29	#12 (permalink)
BeDlaM Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Glasgow Age: 52 iTrader: (0)	Now theres an active mod Andy Last edited by kenholland : 9-14-03 at 6:55.
	to err is human (now does that mean owing a soarer i have erred )

9-20-03, 13:30	#14 (permalink)
kenholland Ex-Mod Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dorset, UK iTrader: (0)	Full closure mod fitted today! Gareth, thanks for the instructions - it worked a treat first time. I hope you don't mind, but I've tidied them up a little to make them easier to follow, and added a few extra notes about wiring colours. Ken
	Ken

9-21-03, 18:15	#15 (permalink)
mop Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: bournemouth, Dorset Age: 37 iTrader: (0)	hey, nice one Ken.. how did it go in the end? I remember you said it was on your list for the weekend after we meet.. Rich
	Mop silver standard + pipercross induction kit, connolly leather seats, de-badged bonnet