Distributor Change..a simple How To.

[martyg]

Ok I promised Id do this for anyone who needs it. Not sure how to put the pics up yet but will try to as I go along.

Step by Step:

1) Disconnect the Negative battery terminal to prevent any electrical damage/faults. DEPENDING ON YOUR SET UP YOU MAY NEED TO REMOVE THE AIR FILTER BOX OR LOWER CAI PIPE-WORK BEFORE COMMENCING, YOU NEED TO DO THIS TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE CAP RETAINING BOLTS AND DIZZY RETAINING BOLTS.

2) Disconnect the TWO connectors on the TOP of the Dizzy, one large and one small, tuck them out of the way, its a good idea to check and clean these contacts whilst you have them off. DO NOT REMOVE THE 6 PLUG LEADS AT THIS STAGE UNLESS YOU HAVE THEM CLEARLY LABELLED, YOU DO NOT NEED THEM OFF TO REMOVE THE DIZZY CAP.

3) Undo the 3 distributor cap retaining screws/nuts (8mm socket with extension or screwdriver) the one at the bottom can be a pain so take your time. These are CAPTIVE screws meaning that they shouldnt fall out when undone so no need to worry about catching them as them loosen. TOP TIP, remove the left hand radiator cap this creates a little extra space for getting at the top left hand screw.

4) Remove the distributor cap, the leads should give you enough slack to tuck it complete up beside the thottle body. Now look for the TWO dizzy retaining bolts, one at 2 oclock and one at 6 oclock. You may at this stage using tippex or similar mark the position of the dizzy in relation to the engine as it can be turned through about 25 degrees on slotted brackets, i found it didnt make any difference to the operation, only to access to retaining bolts but thats up to you. Remove the TWO retaining bols, these arent captive so take care not to drop them.

5) You dizzy is now free to remove BUT, FIRST YOU MUST NOTE AND MARK THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR ARM AS THE REPLACEMENT MUST GO BACK IN WITH THE SAME ORIENTATION. Note the end of the arm with the metal contact, mark with your tippex the position in relation to the distributor body.
You can now by gently pulling remove the dizzy, it is secured now only on an O ring seal and should pop, then withraw. OK, look into the orifice left by the dizzy, you will see the end of the CAM, on the end there is a round body with a deep slot machined into it. This is the slot you need to align your back end of the dizzy with ensuring at the same time that the rotor arm is in the same positon as the dizzy you removed. You can only be 180 degrees out so this sounds more complicated than it is.




Above is the end of the CAM

6) Remove the CAP from the new dizzy, Smear the O ring on the new dizzy with a little engine oil and holding her steady enter it into the orifice ensuring alignment with the cam. At this point you will feel the the dizzy getting into position, genlty push and wiggle until you locate the dizzy onto the cam, then you will need to push a little harder until the O ring pops into its seat and the dizzy mounts flush with the engine block. Align the dizzy with the tippex marks you made, fit the retaining bolts, ensuring that you dont cross thread them and tighten.
Below, back of new dizzy, aligned ready for installation.
7) Fit the new CAP back onto the new dizzy, not forgetting the rubber gasket of course, tighten the cap screws. Now simply transfer one at a time the plug leads from the OLD CAP to the new one. Check all is tight and secure, re fit the connectors at the top, refit the radiator cap and the battery connection. Give her a turn, she should fire up staright away.

Dizzy Removed you can see the retaining bolt locations, next pic, shows the old cap still connected, and the last the new dizzy before re-connection.

[Einstein]

Nice write up Marty, and yes, it is that easy