I just got myself an M-reg MX6 and am very pleased with it so far but have a few projects I would like to complete. (pics on http://www.mazdaclub.co.uk/mycar/my%20new%20car/ ) Its a 2.5l auto.
1) I need to find the easiest place to get a speed pulse signal (green/red), I have got cruise control and need the pulse for my sat-nav system. How can i get to this signal easy? I REALLY dont want an air bag blowing off in my face while trying to find it either.
2) What is the easiest way to get 1 x 12v Constant, 1 x 12v Switched, 1 x RCA Subwoofer and 3 x RCA Vid / Audio wired into the trunk / boot? I have an amp and sub that I want to install, plus I have a custom designed xbox that I want to install, and send the feeds back to my head unit and pop-up screen. My ultimate wish is that the wiring is 100% hidden. I have done a nice job on my head unit and sat nav (bothing taking up 1 din each) and dont want to spoil the looks.
3) My car came with a clifford alarm, its an ugly5 button keyfob, but I cant find out anywhere what model it is. The alarm doesnt seem to immobilise the engine so I am VERY keen to get rid of it and replace it with a G-Trak Stealth, an alarm system with tracker etc. Is there anyone anywhere in the UK that would be able to do this for me at a reasonable price? I have the alarm, but dont want to risk once again the airback going off. My current alarm already has remote central locking. The keyfob only seems to arm / disarm, the other buttons dont do anything.
My car has a mild case of HLA tapping, but calms down after about 15 seconds. I have ordered an original set of leather seats, but they wont be here for a few weeks, but when they arrive I will probably need a bit of assistance fitting those also.
Are there any decent ECU upgrades for this car? I am not mechanically minded, but do like to tinker with electrics and was wondering if there were any performance / economy upgrades?
Hi Gav, im not an electrically minded sort but on the HLA matter, its very common with these cars, so chances are its nothing to worry about. The club way is to do an engine oil change which is an easy DIY, but to flush the engine with Wynns engine flush or similar before emptying out the old oil. Use a quality grade oil too, Mobil 1 isnt cheap but if you havent any leaks will do you proud for a while. You may find the tapping doesnt completely go away but will be worse on very cold days/mornings.
Hi gav Welcome aboard, as for the wiring i have ran all of mine under the carpets, there is a bit of panel dismantling involved along the car, i took all the door cards off and the sill protectors, that way i was able to run all the wiring into the boot hiding it all the way.
where abouts are you based?
if you are not too far ill give you a hand
Reality is an ilussion that occurs due to a lack of alcohol.
Speed pulse at back of dash panel, or on speed sensor on top of gearbox.
wires into boot... put new ones in that can handle the power.. the 12V switched from the stereo..
HlA noise is usually cured by a flush and oil and filter change as said earlier..
One thing to point out though, is only ever use a genuine Mazda filter... no other has the special valve fitted.. and for the price £6 ish, it's just not worth it.
John
"A bus station is where a bus stops; a train station is where a train stops; on my desk I have a work station." Cardomain pageUK626Club UK & Ireland Member of the Year 2004, 2006 and 2007
HLAs.... sometimes the tapping goes on for a little while longer, but generally its not bad. Was going to put some nice oil in anyway, so I might as well flush it at the same time. It doesnt bother me, just dont want people to think my mazzy is a dying dog when i first start it in the morning.
its a shame about the speed pulse, I dont want to go anywhere near my gear box, and I have heard that the instrument cluster is a nightmare. Was hoping that the cruise control might be easy to get a signal from, providing i can actually find the cruise control unit.
My alarm system will be fitted by myself, should be an easy job since there isnt much that still needs to be done. I did wonder however if the ECU has any imobilizing point on it instead of the normal coill / starter immobilization. I just want to find a point that I can have cut out on alarm trigger that is less easy to bypass.
As for the audio wiring, thats going to be a major headache. I guess I'll just take the seats out and cross my fingers and hope i find enough space somewhere to put all the wires.
For the question of where I am, I'm in Letchworth, Hertfordshire.
two wires from the speedo sensor go to the speedometer.. one other comes from the speedometer and is for the Cruise, and the ECU.. this is a Green/red stripe wire, and it's spec is 0 - 5V when the wheels are turned..
The same green/red wire is also at the cruise control unit, which is under the dash... (black connector)
Should be easy to get to..
John
"A bus station is where a bus stops; a train station is where a train stops; on my desk I have a work station." Cardomain pageUK626Club UK & Ireland Member of the Year 2004, 2006 and 2007
Yep - getting the dash out isn't an easy job. But it is do-able. Just be prepared for lots of cuts and grazes.
You won't need to pull the seats out to do the wiring though. Take the door sill (kick plate) off and run the wires under there, there's lots of room. Then behind the seatbelt anchor point and slip the wires up behind the rear side panel. Take the rear seat cushion off (2 clips at the front) and run the remainder under there and into the boot.
Nice one ken, will do that with the wires. My dad said there was loads of room for wires, lots of empty space in the chassis.
For the speed pulse, I will either backtrack to the ECU, or patch into the cruise control. Either way, will go for the one that doesnt require removing any panels, I have a habbit of breaking plastic.
Whats the easiest way to get to the left hand side of the center console? I would rather route my wires down the near side as apposed to driver side but so far, my sat nave cables have had to come out of the driver side and up near the steering column.
I am to worried about removing screws etc, so have just tucked things in were i can fit my fingers. :P
Hey! and welcome to the most exclusive club in the world ,
The way I ran my cables was to run the power cables down the passenger side and the RCAs down the drivers. The reason for this is the antenna cable runs down the drivers side already and the radio signal picked up interference from the power cables breaking it up from time to time (I found out the hard way ). Tho having said that my RCA running from headunit to amp pick up a touch of engine noise, cable is quite good quality, maybe running them down the centre might be a better option.
As for taking the centre console panels off this is easily done. Start with the gear knob (unscrew), then remove the plastic surround around the gear stick (will just pop off, remove the little tab right under the handbrake handle and pop the rest up), remove wiring to the ash tray - moving the gear stick into 4th helps removal. Under there are 4 screws (i think) holding the centre console side panels and the handbrake cover.
The passenger side panel has a popper at the back, once removed that should just unclip. Same for the drivers side but unscrew the visible screw on left side of the panel under the steering wheel, this should drop down enough for you to remove the other screw under that cover at the back. The drivers panel can then be removed giving you access all around the centre console.
Phew! I think thats about right. Also under the glove box are 2 clips which just hold the carpet in place so wires are easily routed under there from the side to keep them hidden. For drivers side unscrew the fuel cap handle cover to get ur hand under the carpet so u can drag the wires under there.
As Ken said, kick plates for running wires, remove rear seats and trim panels (held by 3 poppers) for a neat job, or just push them under.
I did remove the front seats when running my wires as it was the first time I had done it and found it much easier to move around (lots of room without the seats!) and get it sorted, and they only take 5-10 mins to take out/put back anyway, depends if u got the time.
Nice fat post there! Once you start it will all make sense! i think..!
Fitted my new alarm / tracker. Now I know exactly where my car is at all times, I can call the car from any phone in the world and see if its all locked up ok, I can monitor noise in my car, i can speak on the alarm's loudspeaker if some twerp is sniffing around my motor, and i can even stop the car from running if its in the process of being stolen. I am very happy about that.
i think I have found the speed-pulse signal.... when installing the alarm I removed the centre console, ashtray, etc. not too easy with an auto, but it came out in the end... anyway, found the ecu and several wires from the right (about 6 or 7 methinks), there was a green/red wire. I just want to be sure that the wire I am looking at is indeed the speed pulse signal, if it is, thats another one of my tasks off the list
If you've got the centre dash out, you might as well go the whole hog and take the instrument cluster apart. Then the rev counter wire is clearly marked on the circuit board. It's a thick green one on the centre connector if memory serves correct.
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). Tho having said that my RCA running from headunit to amp pick up a touch of engine noise, cable is quite good quality, maybe running them down the centre might be a better option.
Once you start it will all make sense! i think..!
