Drop-link help

[doorslammer]

OK, I've replaced the u/s rear drop link but to my engineering mind the fixing method does not seem correct.

The link came with a nut on each threaded 'stud', are these the securing nuts or do you leave them on and obtain extra nuts to secure the link to the anti-roll bar and chassis?

At least if I have to take it off it will be a lot easier than getting the old one off

After battling with one side I'm tempted to let someone else do the other side

[Heckler]

It only secures from either end and the rubber washers to cusion it. It's there as a retainer to stop things moving to far apart. If you secured them from both sides at either end, it would restrict movement and possibly cause damage.

[doorslammer]

Thanks Gav, put my mind at rest.

[Ian F Chequer]

The studs are set into flexible mounts which allow some movement. Provided the studs are screwed up to the torque specified, the mounts will accomodate changes in orientation.

Also, if one has gone, the other probably hasn't got long to live. You can use Nissan Micra links - see the suppliers section.

If required you can remove the antiroll bar and links and drive without while the bits are in the post.

ifc

[doorslammer]

Hi Ian,

I have a second set ready to do the other side but not being as young or as fit as I was, lying under a car with a junior hacksaw removing the old ones is not as easy as it used to be . It may get done over the weekend or next weekend.

There could be a problem torquing the bolts as there is no obvious way of stopping the bolts turning unless they hold once nipped up, there is no 5mm Allen key hole in them. That was one reason I wondered if the nuts already on them should be left on and another nut put on to effect the fixing.

I guess these are generic parts as the studs are much longer than the orginals so I could put two nuts on them to act as locking nuts while tightening the fixing nuts but then I couldn't get a socket on and use a torque wrench.

Unless anyone comes up with a bright idea I guess it will be a case of using two lock nuts and heaving on a ring spanner until it feels like 27ft/lbs!

I guess I could cut down the studs on the other link before fitting and thus allow me to get a standard socket on and torque them up.

[Ian F Chequer]

You must have different droplinks because the ones I fitted (the Nissan ones) have a socket for a 5mm allen key.

The best way to get the old ones off is to get the car as high off the ground as possible, get an angle grinder with a grinding wheel (not a cutting wheel) get the eye protection on and OBLITERATE the old bolts.

I suspect the studs on yours do not freely rotate within the links. If this is the case, then you do not need the allen key, but don't lean too heavily on the but while tightening otherwise you will damage the mount.

regards,

ifc

[doorslammer]

John suggested an angle grinder Ian, that's OK if you can get 'leccy to where you are working, not all of us have a nice clean, warm garage with power and heating, some of us are real 'shadetree engineers'

The studs do rotate in the new links as I found out when trying to get the nuts off, one I had to hold the stud with Mole grips to release the nut.

I notice on the SWP site (http://www.southwalesprops.com/) their links have nyloc nuts, mine have ordinary nuts!

[Ian F Chequer]

if you genuinely cannot get mains power to where you are working it may be worth investing in a 12V inverter which generates mains power from a 12V source, like this one:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSear...=4266778&N=401

They also make a 300W one but this is unlikely to be man enough to run even a small angle grinder.

Remember that 600W at 12V is (assuming 100% efficiency) a current draw from your battery of 50 amperes, so you may consider getting a caravan battery or hooking it up to the 6 battery and running the engine while whizzing the grinder - and don't try and draw 50A from the cigarette lighter whatever you do!!!! hehe.

ifc

[doorslammer]

I have decided to fit the drop-links as I think they should be fitted so post this for anyone else with similar drop-links or links purchased from Car Parts Direct where I got mine from.

The studs on the links have no shoulder, they are just plain studs threaded to just about where the rubber boot comes to on the stud.

The studs have one nut run down to the bottom of the thread.

I left that nut on and obtained and extra nut and washer for each stud and used that to secure the link to the brackets.

Other links probably come with a shoulder on the stud and this will act as one face to butt upto the bracket.