Oil Advice and recomendations here!!

[Wackyracer]

thanks for clarifying that... wouldnt want my engine to die or something nasty just because i put the wrong oil in!

[Stratoviper]

I just had the oil changed in My 94 V6 2.5 The masking tape in the engine bay said the last oil change was within 5000km of where I am now. I have 332,000+ on the odo. I had My local "Mr.Lube" put Full synthetic Mobil 1 in. Am I doing the right thing by using Fully synthetic on a high milage engine? Has anyone else here had an engine last this long? She's still smooth,quiet (when I keep my foot out of it, ha ha.) and strong.

[oilman]

Originally Posted by Stratoviper

I just had the oil changed in My 94 V6 2.5 The masking tape in the engine bay said the last oil change was within 5000km of where I am now. I have 332,000+ on the odo. I had My local "Mr.Lube" put Full synthetic Mobil 1 in. Am I doing the right thing by using Fully synthetic on a high milage engine? Has anyone else here had an engine last this long? She's still smooth,quiet (when I keep my foot out of it, ha ha.) and strong.

If the engine is in good shape there is no issue using a synthetic on a high mileage engine.

Cheers

Guy.

[fredio54]

The man speaks the truth with regards additives. You should NEVER use them. Period. All oils are packaged with plenty of additives in them already.

With regards HLA ticking, using a light oil will (of course) make it noisier (hot number is key, not cold). There is no magic oil grade for making this go away, it is a prior maintenance issue that needs to be remedied by replacement or (much cheaper) cleaning as shown here :

http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/10...ift-power.html (FE3 HLA cleaning procedure for more lift and power :-))
http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-oth...less-tick.html (K series/FE3 HLA cleaning.(for more lift/power, and less tick))

Once clean, use ONLY full synthetic because the oil in the lifter is STAGNANT and does NOT circulate significantly during normal regular use. The HLA sits on the end of the valves getting nice and toasty and the oil (if mineral) eventually turns to coke (carbon). It is a physical defect. No oil (not even my favourite one (amsoil)) can fix that :-)

If the engine is in good shape there is no issue using a synthetic on a high mileage engine.

Agreed, but if it is dirty, the dirt is the seal, and it will get washed away! (speaks from personal oil stained driveway on low mileage jap engine that was typically jap dirty)

Just thought I'd share my knowledge on that with you lot :-)

Fred.

[oilman]

Hi guys

Anyone need a recommendation?

[nasher]

Originally Posted by oilman

Hi guys

Anyone need a recommendation?

Yea I got one.

92 manual box, getting hard to change gear at top RPM, what oil will help make this better? Tried to speak to you at the JapFest, but you were swamped.

[oilman]

Is it just getting baulky/stiff or does it grind into gear at high revs?

Cheers

Guy.

[nasher]

Originally Posted by oilman

Is it just getting baulky/stiff or does it grind into gear at high revs?

Cheers

Guy.

Hey Guy

Its great at all changes at any revs up to 6000, then you have to give it a good shove to get it in. Also noticable on the change down at high revs.

Mike

[oilman]

It does sound more mechanical than oily

Cheers

[tx5_brent]

im gonna join in on the gearbox thing, i have a g-series 5 speed manual and it crunches chen cold and sounds alot more mechanical than oily. im using the oil mazda reccomend i cant remember exactly but it was something like ?w-90
btw this box has only done about 70xxx kms but i drove it without a clutch for about 10km... oil has been changed since then. i change the oil in the box every seccond engine oil change so i do it about every 10xxx kms

[oilman]

Might be worth you getting your syn chros looked at, I remember when my old vw clutch went and drove it home 10 miles. Syncros had had it after that.

But I had a spare gearbox anyways so wasnt too worried.

Cheers

Guy.