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6-16-05, 12:25
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#1 (permalink) |
 
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Oil Advice and recomendations here!!
Dear Member,
My name is Simon Barnard and I own an oil distribution business in the South West. I have been invited by the MX6 (uk) Car Club to run an “Oil Advice and Recommendations” service for your Club, which is a FREE service. We deliver all oils by AMTRAK “overnight” service anywhere in mainland UK. I have not posted this topic to advertise my Company and will be publishing no prices here on the General Forum. Prices can be obtained by email. sales@opieoils.co.uk I’m here to answer questions, give advice and recommendations to the Members of this Club. I accept that everyone knows everything there is to know about oil, and the best oils to use in their cars, so it may fall on deaf ears, but most Clubs find my services and prices a benefit to their Members. Hopefully I can at least expose some of the myths and give sound "technical" advice. I would like to point out that, I sell Castrol, Mobil, Silkolene, Fuchs, and Motul Oils and have no particular loyalty to one brand (Customers buy what they are comfortable with) however, I normally recommend oils based on the following criteria: 1) Technical Specifications 2) Quality compared to others of the same performance 3) Price comparisons (VFM) Naturally, I have my favourites, but this is based on their quality and performance. Many of the oils I sell are not available in the shops but are specialist oils only available through Authorised Distributors like myself (e.g. I don't sell Magnatec but do supply Castrol Performance products not available in the shops). On a public forum there are drawbacks, especially if the product is made by a supplier of mine so I may "duck" some questions and reply to you personally by PM. My opinions are frank but based on facts so I'll apologise in advance if I upset anyone. I will ALWAYS give you the "best advice", but you don't have to take it. I look forward to being of service to MX6 (uk) Car Club Members and Forum users, you will also see my brother Guy posting as well, we work together and feel free to contact him as well. Cheers Simon Barnard  Partner Opie Oils Last edited by kenholland : 6-17-05 at 2:06. Reason: Reduced the size a bit :) |
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6-16-05, 14:03
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#3 (permalink) |
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Hi Simon,
Have been looking forward to you coming aboard since Ken mentioned it. While most of this forum seem to know their stuff, there's a small minority like myself and who know zilch and would be less embarassed to ask about silly simple things if we were actually going to buy stuff from you. So for starters - and I think all us clueless would benefit - if you had an MX6, could you list your default specific choices be for engine oil, coolant, clutch,brake,gear fluid.. and whatever you sell? If it's not ridiculously expensive, I'd probably order tomorrow and use your overnight delivery for my big service this coming wednesday! Or to be selfish, mine's a 1997 2.5 V6 auto which only does normal driving - no track days or street races (except when provoked  ) Mazda service is extortionate - I'm going to just buy parts and stuff and get someone to do my service cheap.Thanks and welcome again! Hope we give you good business  |
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6-16-05, 16:41
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#4 (permalink) |
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Racing for team Palestine
 
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am interested as i am doing a service this weekend or during the week
for now i only need engine oil its a 1993 2.5 v6 manual thanks in advance |
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RUSHING RASHEEEEEED
 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI SS brake lines,carpc,remap, F&R antiroll bars, anti-lift kit, SS exhaust system, (VF 37 Twin scroll turbo equal length headers, RCE Tarmac 2 Coilovers
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6-16-05, 17:15
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#5 (permalink) |
 Ex-Mod
 
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Hi Simon, welcome aboard.
I'm sure you're already aware that the MX6 has HLA's to take into consideration. They often rattle so the correct oil is always an issue for us. The oil of choice seems to be Mobil1 0W40 - but that's pricey... Halfords synthetic 5W40 seems to be a popular choice because it's often on special at £20 for 5L. Finally, what's your opinion on some of these "anti HLA noise" additives? Are they worth using? Cheers, Ken |
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Ken
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6-16-05, 17:35
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#6 (permalink) |
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Banned
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I'd be interested in some impartial info on some of those engine additives too. Seen some called 'Motor Up' that is supposed to reduce noise/wear and I've seen some pretty impressive tests in real life of this stuff. The thing is that I believe it contains teflon which might cause long term problems in an engine.
Oh and welcome aboard. |
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6-17-05, 5:41
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#8 (permalink) |
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Ok, I'm off the Japshow at Santa Pod today and will post some more stuff up here as soon as I can.
I will get a full recommendation for all MX6 models (for all suitable oils Engine, gearbox, diff, clutch and brake etc) and I will post it here. My database says that 5w-40 fully synthetic is the best option with 10w-40 semi-synthetic being the cheapest option but bear in mind that an sae 40 is an sae 40 whether it be 0w, 5w or 10w. It mentions 75w-90 GL4/GL5 as the correct manual gearbox oil and Dexron II ATF for Automatics. The brake and clutch fluid specified is DOT 4. Below is some reading regarding viscosities and addatives. I'll post more detail here as soon as I return. Cheers Simon |
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6-17-05, 5:42
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#9 (permalink) |
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0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40 are all the same thickness (14cst) at 100degC.
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC. So, all oils that end in 40 (sae 40) are around 14cst thickness at 100degC. This applies to all oils that end in the same number, all oils that end in 50 (sae 50) are around 18.5cst at 100degC and all oils that end in 60 (sae 60) are around 24cst at 100degC. With me so far? Great! Now, ALL oils are thicker when cold. Confused? It's true and here is a table to illustrate this. SAE 40 (straight 40) Temp degC.........................Viscosity (thickness) 0..........................................2579cst 20..........................................473cst 40..........................................135cst 60..........................................52.2cs t 100........................................ 14cst 120.........................................8.8cst As you will see, there is penty of viscosity at 0degC, in fact many times more than at 100degC and this is the problem especially in cold weather, can the oil flow quick enough to protect vital engine parts at start up. Not really! So, given that an sae 40 is 14cst at 100degC which is adequate viscosity to protect the engine, and much thicker when cold, how can a 0w oil be too thin? Well, it can't is the truth. The clever part (thanks to synthetics) is that thin base oils can be used so that start up viscosity (on say a 5w-40 at 0degC) is reduced to around 800cst and this obviously gives much better flow than a monograde sae 40 (2579cst as quoted above). So, how does this happen, well as explained at the beginning, it's all about temperature, yes a thin base oil is still thicker when cold than at 100degC but the clever stuff (due to synthetics again) is that the chemists are able to build these oils out of molecules that do not thin to less than 14cst at 100degC! What are the parameters for our recommendations? Well, we always talk about good cold start protection, by this we mean flow so a 5w will flow better than a 10w and so on. This is why we recommend 5w or 10w as the thickest you want to use except in exceptional circumstances. Flow is critical to protect the engine from wear! We also talk about oil temps, mods and what the car is used for. This is related to the second number xw-(XX) as there may be issues with oil temperatures causing the oil to be too thin and therefore the possibility of metal to metal contact. This is difficult to explain but, if for example your oil temp does not exceed 120degC at any time then a good "shear stable" sae 40 is perfectly capable of giving protection. "Shear stability" is important here because if the oil shears it thins and that's not good! However, if you are seeing temperatures in excess of 120degC due to mods and track use etc then there is a strong argument to using an sae 50 as it will have more viscosity at these excessive temperatures. There are trade offs here. Thicker oils cause more friction and therefore more heat and they waste power and affect fuel consumption so it's always best to use the thinnest oil (i.e. second number) that you can get away with and still maintain oil pressure. There is more but this post is too long already so lets keep it to basics. Cheers Simon |
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6-17-05, 5:46
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#10 (permalink) |
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We had various of these magic addatives tested last year. The chemists comment were quite scathing the say the least! I would not use them, a decent oil contains all the correct ones so don't waste your money.
General Remarks on Chlorinated Additives. A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:- 1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears. 2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.) 3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations. 4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem. 5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made. Hope this helps. Cheers Simon |
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6-17-05, 6:48
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#11 (permalink) |
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I've just enough time as the van is loaded to put these up.
Mazda, MX-6, MX-6 2.0i, 1992- Manufacturer: Mazda Motor Corporation, Hiroshima, Japan Drive type: f.w.d. Cylinder capacity: 1991 cc Power output: 117 HP/86 kW at 5500 RPM Engine FS Petrol, 4-stroke, 4 cylinder, Line, 4 valves/cil., liquid cooled Cylinder capacity: 1991 cc Power output: 117 HP/86 kW at 5500 RPM Capacity: 3.5 liter Filter capacity: 0.2 liter Use: normal Change 10000 km/12 months OEM recommendation normal API: SG SAE 5W-30, 5w-40 Above -25 API: SG SAE 10W-30, 10w-40 Mazda also recommends: CCMC G5/PD2. Transaxle, automatic Automatic Capacity: 8.8 liter Gears forward: 4 Gears reverse: 1 Use: normal OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IID - Mazda also advices: ATF M-III. Transaxle, manual Manual Capacity: 2.7 liter Gears forward: 5 Gears reverse: 1 Use: normal Check 40000 km/24 months Change 80000 km/48 months OEM recommendation year-round API: GL-4 SAE 75W-90 Above 10 API: GL-4 SAE 80W-90 year-round API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Above 10 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Hydraulic brakes/clutch system Use: normal Check 10000 km Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 or DOT 4 - Power steering Use: normal Check 10000 km OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IID - Mazda also advices: ATF M-III. Cooling system Capacity: 7.5 liter Use: normal Change 24 months OEM recommendation year-round Coolant - Mazda, MX-6, MX-6 2.5i V6, 1992- Manufacturer: Mazda Motor Corporation, Hiroshima, Japan Drive type: f.w.d. Cylinder capacity: 2497 cc Power output: 167 HP/123 kW at 5600 RPM Engine KL Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cylinder, V, 4 valves/cil., liquid cooled Cylinder capacity: 2497 cc Power output: 167 HP/123 kW at 5600 RPM Capacity: 4 liter Filter capacity: 0.3 liter Use: normal Change 10000 km/12 months OEM recommendation normal API: SG SAE 5W-30, 5w-40 Above -25 API: SG SAE 10W-30, 10w-40 Mazda also recommends: CCMC G5/PD2. Transaxle, automatic Automatic Capacity: 8.8 liter Gears forward: 4 Gears reverse: 1 Use: normal OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IID - Mazda also advices: ATF M-III. Transaxle, manual Manual Capacity: 2.7 liter Gears forward: 5 Gears reverse: 1 Use: normal Check 40000 km/24 months Change 80000 km/48 months OEM recommendation year-round API: GL-4 SAE 75W-90 Above 10 API: GL-4 SAE 80W-90 year-round API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Above 10 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Hydraulic brakes/clutch system Use: normal Check 10000 km Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 or DOT 4 - Power steering Use: normal Check 10000 km OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IID - Mazda also advices: ATF M-III. Cooling system Capacity: 7.5 liter Use: normal Change 24 months OEM recommendation year-round Coolant - Hope this helps, Cheers Simon |
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10-16-05, 16:10
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#12 (permalink) | |
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New Member
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Very Interesting and very alarming. Could you suggest how I can best remove and neutralise the ZX additive that I have added to several engine and gearboxes over the last 5 years. I have to say performance seemed improve after adding but your article alarms me. Thanks Last edited by n.cardale : 10-16-05 at 16:16. |
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10-31-05, 4:25
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#14 (permalink) |
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need a wee bit of help please guys. as ive said before, i know how to put the key in the ignotion and i know where the petrol goes, but after that im pretty much screwed(hence why all the information above me makes no sense at all). i need oil... asap. possibly a wee problem, was fine about a month ago, now its really empty... i drive an auto by the way. any recommendations for what i should buy(heading in at lunch)?
cheers for the help as always, jonathan Last edited by cheeky_monkey : 10-31-05 at 5:31. |
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11-6-05, 17:16
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Cheers Simon |
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