Well i set about removing my passenger side drive shaft today to fit a new C.V boot.( the old one has started to split alittle and its MOT time in a week....
I sprayed a little 'plus gas' on the nut and left that for a while and then i tried to get the damn nut off.....
Now i have read all the threads about this in the past, even offered some advice myself, but im stuck!
Oh and yes i did remove the 'staking!'
* tried extra long breaker bar
* bounced up and down on above bar!
* tried rocking the car back and forward with the bar on the ground ( dug up the tarmac!!!)
* tired using a jack to create some serious leverage ( lifted the front wheels off the ground!!!)
* tried jarring it free with a chisel
* tried swearing and cursing at it.........
And still its there, hasnt budged a bit! I need to get this thing off by late next week....... any more ideas?
Can you spilt them in two using a sharp chisel? Or maybe an angle grinder ( not much room to play with and also the threads to think about...)
Fire away people, bring me your wisdom, bring me you experience, bring me your daughters..... ok maybe not just yet, let me shift this damn nut first.
p.s i will be usinga 'stretchy boot' this time. Have used split boots in past but usually last about a year. The stetchy boot is a normal boot that is extra stretchy and you purchase with a special tube and lube, together it enables you to slide it over the joint without disassembling it . Apparantly they are a copy of something that the trade uses..... wasnt bad price either! will post follow up as soon as its done.
Last edited by Wackyracer : 6-10-06 at 11:49.
.....and so i find myself asking, 'At what point does the 'end' start?!'
There is no need to remove the hub bolt to fit a new CV boot. Just remove the hub by removing the bottom 2 strut bolts and split the two joints (steering and bottom arm). The CV just pulls apart i.e. just pull hard on the shaft and the splined shaft will seperate from the joint. Fit the boot over the shaft and then just push the splined shaft back into the joint. Total job should take about 1/2 hour.
Last edited by Piers14 : 6-10-06 at 12:29.
J-Spec MX-6, Evo 9 Brembo calipers & disks, Adj Brake bias valve, SS brake lines, Ksport RR coilovers (730/850 lb/in), Addco ARB, Poly Bushed LCA's, AWR mounts, Savage SS exhaust, SS headers, De-Cat, Short shifter, Unorthodox flywheel, DXD Stage 3 clutch, race battery, Shift light, Roll cage, Sparco bucket seat, Plumbed in extinguisher, 983 Kgs.
I know what Piers is on about, and I suppose it's possible..
just bear in mind, there is a circlip holding the joint on the driveshaft..
John
"A bus station is where a bus stops; a train station is where a train stops; on my desk I have a work station." Cardomain pageUK626Club UK & Ireland Member of the Year 2004, 2006 and 2007
You can loosen the nut by bracing a breaker bar against the ground and driving slowly forwards or backwards (depending on which side it is) to crack the nut off.
The main issue is you need a breaker bar capable of pulling the most god almighty torque to torque it up again.
I did this job on both Fiestas. The 1988 one I split the joint at the inboard end where there is a circilp holding the splined shaft into the tripod (which is an integral part of the joint). Both boots then slide off over the splined end of the shaft.
ifc
Four Triple Two - 198901 miles on original powertrain.
Last seen standing in line for the crusher.
Forgiven - maybe
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well as i have never attempted to do it like this, i think i'll take you up on your offer Ian! Will have to be next week though as im now booked to go out tomorrow.
shame was looking forward to trying the new boot thingy.
.....and so i find myself asking, 'At what point does the 'end' start?!'
I know what Piers is on about, and I suppose it's possible..
just bear in mind, there is a circlip holding the joint on the driveshaft..
John
Its not a circlip, its just a spring clip use to locate it in position. Even if you remove the CV joint from the hub you still have to split the shaft from the joint, so its a complete waste of time removing the CV joint from the hub unless you are replacing the joint itself..
J-Spec MX-6, Evo 9 Brembo calipers & disks, Adj Brake bias valve, SS brake lines, Ksport RR coilovers (730/850 lb/in), Addco ARB, Poly Bushed LCA's, AWR mounts, Savage SS exhaust, SS headers, De-Cat, Short shifter, Unorthodox flywheel, DXD Stage 3 clutch, race battery, Shift light, Roll cage, Sparco bucket seat, Plumbed in extinguisher, 983 Kgs.
I see what your saying, but i have a type of boot called a stretchy boot. it comes with a plastic funnel shapped tube and lube so that you can slide the boot over the joint with dismantling it in any way. But if i cant shift the damn hub nut, then its neither here nor there.... So long as i get it done i dont care what method i have to use!!!!
But a big thanks to everyone for the imput, thats what makes this place so good!
.....and so i find myself asking, 'At what point does the 'end' start?!'
Update time! Managed to locate a 10ft breaker bar!!!!! 3 blokes on one end...... nothing! lol
So have been loaned a rather strong and sharp chisel that friend of my brothers ( mechanic) uses if the wont come off..... either the jarring action of it being struck by it lossens it or he simple splits the nut in two..... apparantly its quite easy and often the prefered choice!
So all i need now is a new hub nut. Without driving all the way to mazda, anywhere online i can order one?
.....and so i find myself asking, 'At what point does the 'end' start?!'
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